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HM Nut Strangler

Getting Comfortable
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    Falkland Islands
  1. If its anything like the experience i had, it will involve grinding off the manifold/downpipe studs!
  2. The ECU loom starts by the lhs footrest, so it is fairly straight forward to unbolt the ecu and collect the loom to mount under the dash - somewhere
  3. Regarding the dizzy cap and rotor arm, i have been after some 'genuine' one's. the rotor arm i got from famous four seems to be the real deal, but the dizzy cap seems odd, it came in a Lucas box but the cap is black without any lucus details like the one i'm currently using. Can anybody confirm that if its advertised as a lucas and come in a lucas box and is black its ok even if its missing the lucas detailing?
  4. Hi, thanks for the advice. i have changed the oil to ATF and checked the viscous coupling. All seems to be working fine. Since this debacle i have downloaded and printed out one of the LR Workshop manuals, not much ink in the printers at work now so hopeful no more POL disasters!!
  5. Thanks for the info Chris, as you mentioned, i will be changing the oil pronto!! I dont like the sound of a duff pump and bearings as i only did the front o/p bearing and VC a few months ago
  6. Hi Folks, i have been reading the thread about engine oil and it got me thinking about lubes. When i changed the viscous coupling in my BW transfer box i looked in my haynes manual and filled it up with 80W EP oil. i have since heard that ATF Dextron II is recommended by ashcroft transmissions. First does anyone if the ATF DII is correct and secondly will dropping the 80W EP oil and flushing, then refilling with ATF leave any long standing problems. Thanks in advance for taking the time out to answer my question. P.S. Yes i do feel potentialy stupid and up till now i've trusted Haynes Regards HMNS
  7. I having spent about a grand + at Paddocks, i can say the best approach is if you cant find it on the web site ring Famous Four. All goods bought via the website have been trackable via the email notification and arrived in one piece. The only problem i have found with the website is that it does not notify the customer about nil stock!!
  8. Hi Fella's, Thanks for taking the time out to offer me some advice. Just got to find some new calipers without breaking the bank, fortunatly its at the time off year when my other half is soooooo understanding Merry Crimbomas and a Happy 2008 Roly
  9. Hi everybody, Having just spent some time overhauling the braking system, imleft with a few questions that i hope somebody has come across already? Starter for 10: Is there anything i can do about elonggated holes in the calipers for the brake pad retaining pins? Number two now the grey matter is running: Does removing the brake disc shields reduce braking efficiency in anybodies experiance? And last but not least: What are the symptoms of a broken or failing pressure control release valve (only bit i have not replaced !)? Many thanks in advance for reading and even better if anybody has any words of wisdom Roly
  10. If the motor is running slower than it should be AND you have aircon the heater resistor pack may have been moved to the engine bay and will now be in the form of air cooled coils (which rust easily!), this makes it easier to change and diagnose. Otherwise the resistor pack is situated inside the heater motor body and is relativly accessable. Roly
  11. Hi Jim, I have done the resistor pack on the motor whilst removing the air con system on a 93 RRC. The time and difficulty will depend on wether you have air con fitted? Basically the job involves removing the passenger dash panels and front panels by the heater controls (for ease of access). the motor can be then accessed via the passenger footwell. I have (fortunatly) not had to remove the whole motor but i hope this is of some help to you. Roly
  12. Hi Folks, Thanks for all the advice, it all helped shape a way forward. I bought and fitted a new viscous coupling and all is well for now! Again many thanks. Adios
  13. Hi, Its me again with the knacked borg warner transfer box. A possible solution i have come up with is to replace the BW with a LT230 instead of the ashcroft route. Has anybody done this, is it feasible or do i just need to cough up the cash for an ashcroft BW? thanks in advance for taking the time to read this and hopefully leave so words of advice.
  14. Hi Chap's and chapettes (well you never know who is looking!) i have taken on board all the above advice (thank you very much) and i have a BW transfer box and a selector lever without the manual diff selection available. Is ashcroft the only recommended supplier of recon transfer boxes? I take it that their advice on replacing the whole box if the viscous coupling is seized is a good course of action? Any pitfalls to a DIY transfer box swap?
  15. Hi, Thanks for the advice, i now need a new viscous coupling! Atleast im getting a good working knowledge of my RRC
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