Jode

But the TD5's an interesting challenge - all those electonics, needing to buy in a nanocom or hawkeye.. I'd stick with the TD5 if I had the choice, if only for the 'fun' of it.

What else is a poor girl to do when she's with a group of bored mates, sitting in a coach stuck on the M6 in a traffic jam...?

When LR launched the defender they sung its praises for a variety of improvements, however one item - running dry drive shafts/drive hubs - was a definite step backwards. The series landies run the drive flange/hub in oil, whereas the defenders have an oil seal that prevents diff oil getting to the hub. A popular upgrade down-under is to remove the "new" seal and replace the stub-axle-to-wheel seal with that used on the series vehicles.

Changing the timing belt isn't very hard, but you need some special tools (such as a beam-type torque wrench, crank locking tool to allow you to take the crank damper bolt off and put it back on, timing pins for the injectin pump pulley and the flywheel). Difflock.com has a really good write-up on how to change the belt out - you should at least read it before deciding to take the car to a garage.

The 300 TDI is very sensitive to overheating, so you may want to invest in a low coolant level alarm. You can fit the Range Rover expansion tank cap with low coolant sensor, however you'll need to bodge up wires into the cab and to a "spare" instrument panel light for your alarm. There are a couple of variants on the web regarding how to dfit an alarm or warning light.

Did the pump come locked up with its advance set? Now that you've got a spare I suggest that you strip and rebuild it yourself, if you're reasonably handy with tools. I can send you a strip and rebuild article that I found for a similar Bosch pump (there ARE some differences, however) if you're keen - all at your own risk, of course; PM me if you want it.

Welcome to the forum! Your landie looks like it's in very good nick. As you're now driving in permanent four-wheel drive, you'll need to acquaint yourself with the LT230 transfer box; this Ashcroft video is brilliant for gearbox/transfer box info:

How can you see if the parts are "genuine" or not? LR doesn't literaly badge the parts as far as I know, they badge the package the part comes in. And most parts they buy from others (seals from Corteco, steering bits from Adwest, glo-plugs from Beru, etc.). I recommend that you loosen the injection pump fittings to the timing cover, pump to bracket as well as the pump bracket to block bolts, and then re-tighten/torque as set out in the workshop manual. To do this you'll need to set the engine to TDC; you'll also need to either lock the timing gear to the cover so that you don't loose your timing advance, or else you'll need to reset your advance once you've refit all of the pump fixings. You'll be doing well if you have a trained vervet monkey that can get at some of the bolts that you will need to torque. And replace the camshaft seal - ERR3356 - while you're in there. I don't remember if it's accessible without pulling the rear cover off (hope it is, otherwise there'll be yet more work to do...).

Lesedi Motors? Now ask why I do all my own servicing.... Definitely replace the timing belt and idler pulley (and belt drive sprocket if it's the old moldel without the shoulders). The modest cost isn't worth saving if you end up breaking the belt and bend push rods and possibly con rods.

There's a good chance you'll leave the slave push rod in the fork/housing, but as it's likely the fork that needs replacing this won't really matter. You'll need to either slide the gearbox backwards or the engine forward to be able to get at the fork for replacing; you may want to consider changing out the release bearing while you're at it.

I hope lubed with brake fluid (or rubber grease) only!

I used contact cement.

Have you fit the core yet?

That'll likely be the switch at the door. These can be tempermental.

"It's a Land Rover"....