ex_mod_90

What sort of torque and speed are you looking at? If you can give me a range, I can point you in the right direction. Are you looking at direct drive or through a gearunit? In my day to day job I cover most things from 120W to 10MW.......Rich

This is a better attempt at a Supercharger...... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U81_0waqEWA

We have used these JPT connectors on previous MS projects: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html Good quality. Rich.

I am afraid I am in the same boat as Nick. Living in the North West, both the Kirton & Yarwell events are a circa 300 mile round trips. For me the key advantage that the Challenge NW events had was that they were locaish in the North West. Sadly I can only see us doing 2 of the Challenge NW events which is a shame. Rich.

I did the maths on voltage drop between 35mm2, 50mm2 and 70mm2 some time ago. As the voltage is approx 14V, the current drawn by the bow2's can be quite high, cant remember what we measured at but its considerable when on load, then the volts drop of the cable could be a factor. I seem to have lost the scrap of paper I had it worked out on, but as some 70mm2 came up on the forum then I went for that. I will echo what Luke has said, 70mm2 is massive and doesnt like to bent so routing can be an issue in tight spaces. Rich.

I have wired a number of challenge trucks, and have used this before: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_5026B.html Nice and neat and privides a central distribution point. Rich.

I cant comment between different manufacturers. I have a Whitbread spaceframe, and like Mike said above, just be prepared for some big costs.Its amazing how many 'little things' are needed and the costs then start to rocket. That said I am more than impressed with the finished product, but they aint cheap to build. I seriously looked at having mine road legal and by the time I finished I couldnt be bothered with the hassle of the SVA/IVA test. It was too much like hard work. Just me 2p's worth. If your after advice I would recommend giving Malcolm @ Whibread a call, he can build pretty much what you want, and can build it as far as you want, i.e. bare frame to fully panelled and painted frame. Rich.

I think the new scoring system is a great idea. But like Dan, I cant see much competitive advantage using hydrosteer against a standard setup. So maybe the -5 for hydro should be looked at?

Great news. Count Team "Show & Shine" in for these Rich.

Very well put Dan. Like Jon and Dan, if a 2 day event could be organised I weould be very keen in joining. Hopefully something can be sorted out for 2013. Rich.

I guess it is then ?? Strange I havent had a letter. But I had heard on the grapevine. Shame, they were good events.

Is the rumour true that there wont be any further Buxton & District events ??

Entry in and monies paid. See you all @ R6, hopefully the dash wont be held in with cable ties by then..... Rich.

Sorry for not being in contact Matt, had loads on work wise. I wont make R5 as the truck is well and truely in bits at the moment, however will make R6 @ Mow Cop. Will e-mail you with regards to the other project. Rich.

Thanks to all who marshalled the event. Very well laid out, nice and challenging sections, and I felt the team recovery as it was a shorter section worked much better. Even more impressed that the truck stayed in one piece and we finished the event in 4th. See you at Clyro with the regular bitch. Rich.

Thanks Matt. Looking forward to R2, with temp Bitch. Rich.

Hum, something is wrong, I have entered, and i'm not listed. Can you please put me down for all rounds on the entry list please, I will then sort out payment. Bitch now sorted, thanks for the offer Dan, but you were beaten to it! Cheers Rich.

Hopefully will be there just sorting out a bitch. Any pics from the last event?

Fantastic event, very well laid out, and the time and effort put into setting up the event really showed. Many thanks to Team 4 for helping us jointly win the team recovery section. We retired early with beadlock damage but for the 1st event out with a new truck were V pleased with the result. Rich (Team 8)

Signed up today

Rad is mounted in the back of mine, (300tdi challenge truck), using the standard pump Header tank is mounted up high and it bleeds very well. We bled mine by opening the bleed on the top of the rad, and also the engine block. filled the syustem using both the header tank and also the bleed on the top of the block. Its been like this now for some time, and havent had any issues. I can post some pics if you like but its nothing exciting :-) Rich.

Neil @ Polevolt (www.polevolt.co.uk) gets my vote. An exceptionally helpful chap, who knows what he is talking about unlike other suppliers I tried previously. I have wired two complete vehicles with components all supplied by Neil, and the service has been completely faultless. Rich

Ah inverters something I know a little bit about. Si. If its a normal inverter and the e-stop provides a controlled e-stop then generally the OFF3 function is used. However saying that Luke is 100% correct, if the stopping or ramp down time is too quick then generally I would expect over-voltage trips rather than tripping the mains. What it sounds like is that the controller is a applying a DC braking current to the motor shaft, and thats whats pulling out the breaker. This braking energy should be able to be adjusted. As Luke said, if you let us know what type of device it is then we should be able to help. If its Siemens then thats a bonus Rich.

Hi Nige. Dependant on whats left in terms of wiring, and the motor type you may be able to use an inverter to convert the single phase house supply into 3 phase 230V that the motor should be able to accept. Can you take a photo of the rating plate for the motor (should be on the side of the motor, and should have the motor ratngs stamped onto it) If you lucky it will have dual ratings for both 230V and 415V or delta a star configurations. Likewise a photo of the inside of the motor terminal box would be useful. Basically take off the cover where the motor cables go into the motor, and you should see 6 studs. A photo of these would be useful. Rich.

I think its the 4M high thats the issue. I spoke to my local planning officer (Cheshire) he was surprisingly helpful, and gave me lots of advice, the ruling here is that the garage can be upto 50% of your original garden, provided its more than 5M away from a public highway, and less than 4M high. My advice would be speak to the local planning officer, but I wouldnt expect much of an issue, based on the fact that your not overlooked etc. Rich.