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ABS and T/C lights staying on - '56 Defender
Cartman replied to Cartman's topic in International Forum
'hell that is a useful idea...hopefully I won't need it but note taken -
I just had a call from SWMBO to say the dash lights for the T/C and ABS have come on and have stayed on this afternoon (she is going out again later so we'll see if they are then?). But I'm stuck in sunny Cairo for a few days so I won't be home to investigate. Apparently the brakes etc. are fine and she cannot feel anything 'wrong'. So my suspicion is water in the ABS sensor connections due to the 'mild dampness' back home. Any better suggestions? Paul
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Cheers all for the help and you were all on the money....FUBAR'd light switch! Linked it out and everything works fine. For later switch info if anyone wonders.. Brown - +12vdc supply in Red - Sidelights out (switch pos 1) Blue - headlights out (switch pos 2 also includes sidelights pos1) I found that the back of the switch was missing and the top section could wobble. Also the headlight contact had signs of very slight overheating and had receded a tad into the plastic. I have fixed this one temporarily but a new one is on order. As this is a later model it also seems that there is a headlight relay to take some of the load but after 7 years the switch still fails Part No. for the switch for around '99 to now is AMR6104R. It has a different plug to that on the PRC3430. £9 delivered for the Brit/All'm offering via 'the bay'. Matfield - those colours are more like what I have than the damn Haaynes excuse Paul
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Cheers Anders, The headlights or indicator hi/lo stalk? The Indicator arm is genuine and only 6 months old. The headlight one is original AFAIK. Looks OK externally. Wire colours are Blue/red/brown. What would be what so I can test it?
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I hope someone can point me in the right direction with this as I HATE car electrics. I might be an instrument tech who deals with things far more complex on a daily basis, but the layout of car wiring and the PITA accessibility means I think all car coloured string is the spawn of the devil! That over with, we have a TD5 90 on a 56 plate (the last of them) and last night SWMBO rolled into the drive and at that point both the dash lights and main and dip beam went out. Looking at this this morning we have the following:- Sidelights work fine and the 'lights on' lamp comes on on the dash. Flick the column switch over to headlights (main or dipped) and the lights on indicator goes off and we have no headlights or sidelights. Ignition on or off makes no difference. Checked the 30A main supply fuse for the lighting under the seat and that is fine. If I flash the headlights from the indicator arm they work fine I have a Haynes manual here which states it covers the 56 plate but the wiring colours don't match. So that makes a hard job even harder? Anyone have any suggestions before the dash ends up in bits? Paul
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Cheers Peter. Useful to know Just back from the local halfrauds with a quality ally trailer socket and a rear gasket. Current one does not have a gasket seal so anything is better than what I have now and if I get this working I want it to last and do it right!
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That is surprising. So all the dodgy 'I have a trailer hitch just for occassional runs to the dump' will still get away with iffy electrics? Whats a 13 pin if you pardon my ignorance? Checks are currently just through the DVM monitoring the trailer socket output using the GND connection in the socket as ref. Same ref. GND for all. I will repeat using the chassis as GND but with a 1/4" copper earth strap I hope it's good....but thinking about it I haven't actually checked it for continuity to the trailer socket. Between the stropped ground and the rear socket is a LR installed multipin which I cleaned up last night. Poss that is still iffy. On the Defender are all the trailer signals direct from the rear lights? If so I may just get a length of trailer cable and wire direct to the socket and bypass the multipin in-line connector?
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We have a 56 plate TD5 90 we use for all the general 4x4 stuff that the 109 is not up to (and I convinced SWMBO that we needed another LR to tow her dobbins about). A week or so ago the 109 decided it didn't want to play ball so the 90 was called into play along with the log trailer, and I then discovered that the trailer lights were also going to go the way of the 109. I now find that the issue is not the trailer but the socket on the rear x-member. Checking out the pins we have the following issue. 1. The rear running lights kick out 12vdc with ref to the GND pin. CHECK 2. The LH indicator kick out 12vdc with ref to the GND pin. CHECK 3. If the RH indicator is on the stop/running/LH&RH indicator all flash 12vdc with ref to the GND pin. FUBARRED! With that in mind I stripped the trailer socket. All looked good (only did it 12 months ago). Then accessed the LR multipin socket to the trailer plug behind the panel to the rear of the back O/S wheel. This was all full of mud so cleaned that thoroughly and reassembled. Problem still remained so I then strapped the rear light and trailer earth direct to the chassis and I still have the same lighting problem. OK. Any suggestions gratefully received and I guess from this end the next check should be the multipin connector again. I just realised I didn't do that completely. But do the trailer lighting signals come from a repeater relay somewhere? They are spliced into the main loom so there must be something? Oh, and the 90 lights themselves are all 100%. No issues there. I have spent around 6 hours on it over the past two days so now I am going to put my feet up and grab a brew. Bl**dy Land Rovers
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Welding + brake cleaner = phosgene!!
Cartman replied to Turbocharger's topic in Tools and Fabrication
So what transport did you take in the end as I remember a PH post debating the options? -
I have fitted just the one pane to the drivers side on out S2A and wired via a relay at 25 Amperes. Not had to use it in anger yet but bound to soon? We did a group purchase through the Series 2 club for around 50 sets of screens at £110 a pair a year ago direct with Uroglas
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Here is my 200tdi with 300tdi install on our Series 2A http://pjboomer.blogspot.com/2009/10/turbo-assembly-in-and-tweaked.html Uses the entire 300tdi manifold and turbo assembly and the oil pipes mate direct to the 200tdi block with modification.
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Yep. That will be Ashtree. Just down the road from me and I got him involved with the Series 2 club after getting my rad panel overhauled and galv'd. One thing with Wessex is you do need you to get it shot/sand blasted before they galv. Minor stuff they may do.
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What AT's are you running?
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Can I drive at 70mph without killing my 110?
Cartman replied to Smego's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
We regularly take up and down motorways and the 'happy' speed seems to be 60-65mph. As said above it will go faster but I can hear members of Opec rubbing their hands in glee There are no worries in doing a bit of a blat now and again. Cleans the cobwebs out -
'07 TD5 - Not running on all cylinders?
Cartman replied to Cartman's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Now done around 60 miles since 'the problem' without any re-occurrence? So ordered an express delivery from p'docks yesterday and it arrived at 12 today. New FIAMM/Coopers fuel filter fitted and purge sequence run through. Old one was meant to have been changed 4k ago as part of the agreed PDI/service. It was pretty manky externally (also a Coopers) but that is probably my little outings onto the Plain. Fuel drained out contained no rats or pigeons etc. so nothing obvious there. Anyhoo new filter on and fired up fine and took it for a quick 10 miles trip without issue. Seems smoother but that is probably me I can cross that item off the list anyway if the missing/rough running occurs again at least. Also filled the tank up to the brim. Ali, Just had a message back from the Ford dealer that the owner of the dealership was driving our car about for a few days after his mechs claimed they had 'fixed it'. It broke down with the same electronic fault and he had to be recovered. Donkeys