paintman

Won't affect the viscous coupling as that is a sealed unit.

ebay. Type A127 into the search box.

2.4VM and 2.5VM Inlet 0.30mm 0.012" Exhaust 0.30mm 0.012" Set cold.

Mine are made of lengths of 2"x2" cut to length & then held together with 2 lengths of threaded rod through holes drilled in them. Glue between if you like. Plane smooth after assembly & varnish to seal. Cover with steel sheet if you prefer.

Like I said, have fun

Drive as normal & keep an eye on the level & the temp gauge doing anything abnormal.

They are described as 'non servicable'. If you DO want to try it yourself, have fun!

You are probably burning it. There has been much discussion over the years on all LR forums about oil & the V8. Full synthetics are not recommended for the old technology of the V8. Frequent oil changes seem to be the key, the LR suggestion of 6000 is too long & many, me included, opt for 3 to 4000. I have used Castrol 15w-40 for many years without incident.

Short answer is no. I have not noticed any difference in fuel consumption. If you intend to deep wade regularly with a petrol engine then you can turn electric fans off so there is less chance of water being thrown all over the electrics. I do have Kenlowes on my RRC, but wouldn't bother again.

Very common in the boating world. Look under 'chandlers' and then 'searchlight'. Prices will make your eyes water!

Changing the cam bearings requires them to be line-reamed after fitting. So unless you have the facility & the tools or the engine is out & you have a local engine rebuilders leave the old ones in.

Cooling systems are supposed to pressurise. Problems are when it starts to throw water out of the exhaust or out of the header tank & that usually means overpressurising due head gasket problems (or liners but that's more common in the 3.9 & bigger engines). That top hose in that case is usually rock hard. Overfilling can be a cause of water exiting the header - water expands when hot & its got to go somewhere! Check the condition of the pressure cap, they get weak as they get older, don't allow the system to pressurise properly which will also cause the system to run hotter, & should be replaced periodically. A coolant test for the presence of exhaust gases - although not infallible - could be worthwhile as would a pressure test of the system. Blocked radiators - internally and externally - are also a common cause of overheating.

Loctite & others are very good in worn housings, but they are not intended to fill large gaps.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_9.html

Look for a Disco on ebay that satisfies your criteria. (Don't buy it yet!) Note the details - model, year of manufacture, fuel type, engine size, registration number (Don't look at any modified ones) & ring some insurance companies to try & get insurance for it. IF you can find companies that will insure you then you will know whether car hire is going to be the cheaper option.

No matter what kit you fit, ALWAYS check the depth of the water BEFORE committing the vehicle to it. ESPECIALLY flowing water as it is all to easy to get washed away sideways.

With normal springs & vehicle unladen - the LPG is going to affect this - the average gap between axle & bump stops should be at least 67mm (2.8"). With the vehicle laden the levelling unit should raise it, but will only do so after being driven as the unit will settle if left for a period of time e.g overnight. You could remove the springs & check their free length against what new ones should be.

If the surface of the disc is badly pitted - not unusual with rear discs & if one side is fine & the other is corroded it can be an indicator of a seized/sticking caliper - then you will need to change it or they will just fail it again. You should change them as a pair & fit new pads.

Should have used a tube to press on the flanges. Pressing on pre-assembled balljoint pins can damage the seat or push it out of the unit altogether. If yours moves as it did before being fitted then it should be OK.

LST109 just looks like a piece of metal of a certain thickness. I am guessing that if you check the gap with feeler gauges before dismantling then use the same to reposition it you should be OK. Don't know about the second, but I'd bet they do just that when working on them off the vehicle!

The ball joint is a VERY tight fit. Frankly I wonder why they bother with the bolts. Bashing it in can work, but you must get it lined up absolutely or you won't get the bolts in. You can't just twist it about a bit once its in! When I did mine I put threaded rod into the holes then used washers & nuts on these studs to pull the ball joint down into place.

Is your fluid level correct? Low fluid can cause problems. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk They do make comment in the FAQ section about auto boxes being reluctant to shift up from 1st when cold. Has yours had a recent fluid & filter change? If not it would be worth doing this, although Ashcroft say they do wonder if this may cause problems you already have a problem so you really have nothing to lose and it has cured problems for others.

http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you...... But.... After refitting, remove the plugs & with a well charged battery turn the engine on the starter until the oil light goes out. If it doesn't, you have two choices. 1. LR manual method. Strip pump, pack with petroleum jelly (vaseline), reassemble. Refill engine with oil & start engine. Watch for oil light to go out. 2. Remove dizzy, make up rod with same profile as bottom of dizzy drive & use electric drill to spin oil pump until oil light goes out.

Can I suggest you look at the LPG forum in the message boards section of http://www.lro.com and in particular the comments by Cruiser. As has been said, on the early EFI classic, you can physically remove the ECU from the car & run on gas. Certain companies are very fond of peddling their own 'special and vital' gizmos.