paintman

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/contents.htm

Notwithstanding that they are nearly new, it could also be a faulty plug. NGK are recommended for LPG & are usually excellent. Having said that, the only misfire issues I have had with mine have been.....a faulty plug.

If the plates etc were there when the old pads were fitted then there is no reason why the new pads should not fit with them there. Assuming they are the correct pads for the vehicle. The only issues I have had have been the pads backing plate being a little too long & needing gentle filing to allow them to fit into the caliper. Pad pictures at http://www.apec-braking.co.uk/default.htm Click on 'manufacturer' & then follow to the vehicle of choice. Mintex at http://www.mintexbrakesonline.co.uk

Saw three off a Triumph Spitfire in the mid 70's when I was working in a motor factors on which the driven plate was in pieces - as in ripped apart. These were brand new clutches & no-one could understand what the problem was. Until the young lady driver was seen driving the car by one of the mechanics at the fitting garage. Every start was done by dropping the clutch & spinning the wheels. She said it didn't happen with the old clutch - which had obviously worn enough to allow a bit of slip. After being told that no further clutches would be fitted as warranty claims she must have modified her driving as we didn't get any more back!

What was the result of the testing of the coolant for the presence of combustion gases as suggested on another forum?

I find that ringing the parts dept at the appropriate franchised dealer usually produces results with later cars as they can access details of the cars original build spec. They will need either the reg or chassis number. I do SMART repair work professionally & come across this problem quite often with cars that have had the paint sticker removed or damaged. Mazda have recently stopped putting paint codes on their vehicles.

Damn, the secret's out! I frequently find the dealer cheaper on parts than some of the others. AND the parts are genuine.

Looks like the basis for you to start a very interesting restoration!

Dimmer switch needs adjusting? If the heater and other switch lights work correctly with the dimmer I suggest you check the bulbs and connections in the binnacle. Not sure where the dimmer switch is on the 89 but on my 86 it is on the underside of the dash ('lower fascia panel')above your left knee & looks like a wheel. Guess it would be in the same place.

LR never bothered putting the paint code on vehicles until comparatively recently. Even though there was a perfectly good area on the plate for it. The site given is very good. If you are really struggling then try going in to a dealer & asking.

There is clearly a live feed to the units. Are they wired up correctly? Have you checked the wiring from the main light switches and the switches themselves? What happens if you disconnect the alternator? (NOT with the vehicle running!)

Something that's always puzzled me as well. After all, you can buy kits to strip & renew all seals in the master cylinder and seal kits are supplied to do wheel cylinders & calipers & have been for years. And it would be a sight easier to get those b----- metal rings back in square if you did split them. Mr Land Rover also says in the various factory manuals in the brake overhaul section that you "Do not separate the caliper halves" whilst going into considerable detail of how to strip most of the other brake parts. So as a lot of the contents of Haynes manuals are a straight lift from the factory manuals that is no doubt why Haynes says it.

The linked site is excellent. The disposable gas bottles are a waste of time. I use CO2 (BOC contract) but will change to Argoshield at the end of this bottle. I cannot recommend the autodarkening mask enough. They make life sooooo much easier. I have the Speedglas Utility. And DO wear suitable clothing. UV burns are not pleasant. Neither are bits of spatter!

Gearbox pictures in http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk

Left front speaker b/red & b/pink Right front speaker b/white & b/brown Left rear speaker b/yellow & b/orange Right rear speaker b/blue & b/green Don't know which goes to which side of the speaker but on mine (1986) the rear speakers have different sized terminals - I've just had a look! IIRC the feed wire can be identified with a multimeter.

Axle stands? Piles of bricks? Passing small children?

Try a few local bodyshops (look in Yellow pages). Take the vehicle in. You will find prices vary considerably.

I too favour the big hammer & hit it back & forth method. (I use a big lump hammer )

Run it till it goes.

Strictly cash. At a time when the banks are open. Arrange to meet at the bank (or a local branch of your own bank) Get the bank to check the notes are good - several grand in duff notes is not what you want and there are a lot of them out there! - & pay it into your account. Give vehicle to purchaser.

Stuck or damaged float (sunk?) Damaged sender unit. Check earths are good.

It should be on the outside of the front offside chassis leg. On the side you see as you look in through the front of the wheel arch. In front of the spring seat. Mine is neatly framed by the heads of the power steering box to chassis retaining bolts. (Right hand drive) Usually hidden by layers of rust/underseal/mud so a wire brush will be needed!

Have a look in the 'Problems and Fixes' section of http://www.rangerovers.net there are a couple of issues that are covered thoroughly.

Return to the mechanic who has messed it up. He either rectifies it at his own expense or pays for the rectification work. If he refuses to do so then sue him for the cost of repairs - and the cost of vehicle hire if necessary - through the small claims court. There are good guides to the Small Claims procedure on the web which I suggest you read.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk in the FAQ section