paintman

Worth contacting the seller to see if they will measure it & give you the dimensions incl distance between the mounting holes.

There's usually a small sticky out tag on the terminals which allows you to push them in but not pull them out so once they're in you can push things into the terminal. Look at the main pic here of the one to the side of all the others & you'll see what I mean: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-Way-Bulkhead-Blade-Fuse-Holder-Box-And-Terminals-Land-Rover-OEM-PRC4826-/130873526036 I'd use a thin strip of metal pushed in from the fuse side between the plastic of the holder & the terminal to press the tag in & then pull it out. I've done that on various other connectors. You shouldn't need to slide the strip all the way down as once the tag has passed the small shoulder it should be free.

Can you use your original fusebox by renewing the old metal contacts on the wires?

Is the OP looking for something used for occasional towing - which I would suspect will be the vast majority of users & a revisit says he does less than 5k a year - or in a business involving daily towing of heavy trailers? If the latter I would certainly go with advocating the use of something with a big diesel engine. I do a lot of business with a caravan company that employ several drivers purely for collecting & delivering caravans of all sizes to & from customers & between their retail sites. All use larger engined diesel cars. Petrol costs would be horrid. (That said, one of the owners currently has a supercharged RRS as a toy in addition to his various other cars - and he does occasionally tow with it!) Years ago they did try the P38 Range Rover petrols for moving the vans around - petrol was a lot cheaper then! - but had the block issues with both & haven't touched them since

Incidentally, no good reason why if weight & conditions dictate you can't pull away in low box & then either stop & change back to high OR change from L to H on the move. I do both - even though mine's an auto, but I learnt on manual RRCs. The 'how to' is set out in the owner's factory handbook. Takes a little practice but easily mastered. Low is also very useful for manouvering trailors/caravans in tight spaces. ETA Make sure the linkages are free & not partially seized due to lack of use!

That would be a vertical toroidal tank. I've seen a few pics of those installed in RRC. (I've had a a quick Google, but can't find any - although photobucket did a lot of damage) http://tinleytech.co.uk/complete-lpg-guide/converting-to-lpg/how-to-choose-your-lpg-tank/

miggit said ; "And I hear you say under floor tanks! That is all well and good when you've got a long wheel base and a big chassis, on a standard Classic you'd more likely end up with a reduced size petrol tank, and having to fill up every 150 miles.... which is the very last thing that you want to do when towing!" Not so. Not a problem fitting sill tanks to a standard Classic - certainly the coil sprungs. I don't know whether there would be minimum ground clearance with air sprung when the suspension is all the way down That's how mine are fitted & the standard petrol tank is unaffected. Car empty or fully loaded with trailer I get around 180 miles to a full fill of LPG which is the cost equivalent of a V8 doing around 26/27 on a gallon of petrol. ETA I fuel twice on the Leicester to Cornwall run, at J17 Bristol/Catbrain (Shell garage 24/7) & then top-up at Carland Cross. Makes convenient comfort stops!

Welcome to the forums. Don't think anyone will know what happened as Briggsy last logged in on October 2nd 2009 & didn't post a result.

Mine's a 1986 3.5EFi, I've had it since 1994 & has been on LPG for years. Under the sill tanks as a big in-car tank would lose too much loadspace. If you're considering a Classic then it either needs to be fully sorted bodywise or you'll be adding a mig to your toolbox! LPG will give roughly the same cost per mile from a V8 that you would get from the factory fit diesels. You can't take an LPG converted car through the Channel Tunnel.

Ah yes, but what did she do with the hose..... Merry Christmas all.

In which case any of these may suit as you can then make up whatever length you need: http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/bowden-cable Or local bicycle shop.

Especially if they've still got the lacey edging......

If the added cable & its connector don't need to fit inside an outer cable you could: Use the screw clamp type solderless cable nipples - these, if you can get them big enough for two wires to fit through: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2-X-6mm-Solderless-Nipples-Motorcycle-Scooter-Quad-Car-Throttle-Choke-Cable/2227300609?iid=162457987044 Cut a short length of metal tube - copper brake pipe or similar, fold the ends of the cable back on themselves, hook one over the other, slide the metal tube over & crimp. I make wire pike traces using crimps from tackle shops, but I doubt they would stock ones with a large enough bore - if you're near one that sells sea fishing tackle then they may well have as they are also used for heavy wire or nylon for sharking. Would an electrical cable crimp connector work? Flare the cable end slightly, apply & small blob of solder, push into connector & crimp. Repeat for other cable. The flare would prevent pulling out. Much the same way as I used to do the lever ends of motorcycle brake levers with the solder nipples

It's been an interesting journey watching Chris go from advice posts on LROi to his first videos & the development of those to the very professional standard we now have. I would like to wish him all the very best for the future and a huge thank you for all that he's done.

Apparently the MoD are in talks with Tena....

You mean the LR chain drive transfer box? That's the Borg Warner, not the LT230. The LT230 comes with a few different ratios, any advice on which one if they go that route? ETA Ashcroft's site says there are different BWs depending which RRC or P38 it's on. There are 2 types used on the RR Classic, the early type used on the 2.4 VM and the 3.5 V8 and the later ones used on the 2.5 VM and the 3.9 V8, the latter having a temperature sensor, there are also 2 types used on the P38A RR, one for the manual and one for the auto, http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/transfer-boxes/borg-warner.html

I'm inclined to agree. Mrs P has a 307 & they're well known for the multiplug to the heater blower resistor that controls the heater fan speeds getting too hot & melting/burning the plastic of the plug. Symptom is one or more of the speed settings on the switch stop working. Peugeot have a modified replacement harness which replaces this section & has one less wire than the original. I fitted one of these. It lasted around 18 months before the symptoms started again & examination showed this too had gone at the plug. I then bought one of the kits from ebay which replaces just the multiplug & a few inches of each wire. This appears to be a different plastic and - so far! - has been fine.

The switches PRC4606 and PRC2956 are the 'overheating contact' ones. The plastic body around the contacts melts, so not practical to try & repair them.

Changing the headlights wiring so the dip/main switch is only required to power relays is a worthwhile operation. Mine's a 1986 & I did that a few years ago. DIY, not any of the kits which appear to have a mixed review. Improvement in light output was surprising. Also takes the load off the contacts in the switch which are known for overheating with resultant failure - occurs on other non LR vehicles that use the same switch.

As you say, it sounds like the drainage from the rocker area is blocked. If oil is getting up there then you may have been lucky with the rest. Bowie's idea is certainly worth a go. If you can locate the drain passage(s) from the top I'd try a solvent under pressure to blast the passageways. Aerosols of clutch & brake cleaner with the long thin tube to probe down any visible holes would be my preferred sort. I used a lot of it both in aerosols & 5 litre tins cleaning out the top end of my RRC when I had the heads off earlier this year. The amount of sludge it got out was something of a surprise esp on the stripped down rocker assemblies as the passages in several of the rocker arms were completely full.

Oops. Typo. I gave one of the suppliers as LR4x4 when I actually meant to put island 4x4 Also forgot to put Brit-car http://www.brit-car.co.uk

Did a lot of work on the top of my 3.5EFi earlier this year. All hoses replaced where possible with genuine. They fit & have the right bends. You'll need to shop around, ideally using the LR part numbers as they make it easier. (Most of mine came from LR4x4 & LR Direct with the odd one from other suppliers.) +2 for genuine thermostat. As said above, there is some rubbish fuel hose out there. I replaced mine - regulator to fuel rail & rail to injectors - a couple of years ago with locally sourced hose. The deterioration in 2 years was not good & I replaced it with J30R9 from www.eurosport-uk.net & it's much better. Be careful as one local so-called 'fuel injection specialist' tried to sell me the cloth covered variety & the codan rating stamped on it (3106) showed it as being wholly unsuitable for high pressure/fuel injection usage. Used screw-type fuel hose clamps - not jubilee type. This sort of thing: http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/ash-mini-hose-clamps-fuel-pipe-clip-stainless-steel-10-pack.html

Done something similar, just used push on terminals to attach the leads to the drill's terminals.

I notice I didn't put a figure in for the correct distance between the straightedge & the bosses. This link to Ashcroft gives them: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=51 My own 1986 3.5EFi with ZF4HP22 is given in the LR factory manual as 50mm