paintman

^^^This.

Leave it attached to the gearbox. Be aware that it isn't bolted to the gearbox, just pushed onto it & will happily slide forward & fall off if you don't use something to hold it in place. If it does it is very very heavy, contains a lot of fluid which will spill all over the place (guess how I know) & it can be a complete pig to get back on with the gearbox in situ. It MUST be seated on the gearbox to the depth given - measured from a straight edge across the front of the bellhousing to the top of any of the 4 threaded bosses on the front of the TC. This ensures that the cutouts on the tube on the gearbox side of the TC have correctly engaged with the fluid pump in the gearbox. If it isn't then whilst you can put the engine back on & bolt it all up you will have split the pump in the box. No pump = no pressure = no drive & you get to take it all off again. (Also the reason why you can't just bolt it to the engine) Also an idea to have a couple of short lengths of threaded rod which you fit into a couple of the bellhousing to engine bolt holes in the back of the engine. Help to line the box & engine up making the whole process a lot safer & easier. Once the two are mated & you've got a couple of bolts in just remove the rods & fit the rest of the bolts.

Earlier this year I had the Double S tubular manifolds off my RRC. The state of the manifold to gasket face was shocking to say the least, badly pitted & areas of up to 1cm in length corroded away. The cylinder heads were entirely unaffected. I did contemplate junking them but I don't like giving up & refaced them with 40 & 80 grit emery on a steel block. Took a while but got to the point where a new gasket & a smear of firegum on the pipes did the job, so might be worth the OP trying something similar. Or find a local engineering company & get them to do it for you. BTW leaks from an exhaust manifold can sound exactly the same as a faulty tappet so worth checking before stripping the engine.

Looks like they're catching up with the V8 too. My C-reg RRC checks as exempt on the TFL website for the LEZ but not for the ULEZ

The caveat on Ashcroft's site about cheapies - and a google suggests there aren't any that could be called 'cheap' - is an immediate put-off. Suggestion would be to get one from them. Have you checked that the rest of the box internals are in good order or are the sprockets worn as well?

That fluid doesn't look good. When you change the discs & pads bear in mind that until they bed in the braking efficiency is likely to be less.

Recently had both exhaust manifolds off my RRC. Tubular sports variety & stainless steel. The faces of the manifolds were shocking - heavily corroded - & needed a lot of work to get to the point where there weren't gaps. Some pitting still remained & firegum on the gaskets seems to have done the trick. Heads absolutely fine. TBH I got very close to binning the tubulars & refitting the original cast iron manifolds. Surprising how much noise a small manifold blow makes.

Don't forget to update with a few pics of the progress

As it's a converted vehicle & we don't know what else might have been done there's a few things that need to be established. Is it carburettors or fuel injection? Does pressing the accelerator to the floor fully open the butterflies - one in each carb if on carbs and just one in the mouth of the plenum if EFi? Carburettors may have a restrictive device fitted. If it isn't on carbs you can ignore this one. Is it manual transmission or has the conversion included automatic gearbox? What - if anything - did the previous owner tell you? Was it like this when you test drove it?

Unfortunately I was working both days so was unable to go but had to drive past it. (Live in Leicester & was working in Finedon which is just south of Kettering). Hope the wet weather didn't put too much of a damper on proceedings!

The insurance companies price repairs up using genuine panels & parts at full MRRP. Hence why what seems minor damage will often result in an older vehicle being written off. Have been through this process several times & in minor bumps I've always had the car back with a payment from the insurers & done the work myself. Has included doors, wings & bumpers - but not all on the same car! Never had any issues getting them insured, either with the existing insurer or others, although the on one occasion the existing insurer did want a new MoT.

If LPG is readily available in & around your location then that would make the V8 practical with the mileage you propose. Be aware that you can't use the Channel Tunnel with LPG vehicles so if you make regular trips to the UK it will be ferry only. If not then conversion to diesel is going to be the better option & I'd suggest a Land Rover engine if only for spares availability & ease of installation. With the 3.5Efi on LPG through a BLOS carburettor I get roughly the cost/mile equivalent of the same car with the LR diesels fitted as standard to the RRC - 2 gallons of LPG costs about the same as 1 gallon of diesel/petrol & for non town use I get around 26 miles from 2 gallons of LPG. Towing a boat & car fully loaded OR solo. Go figure! Previously fitted with one of the gas ring type feeds & the BLOS is superior in every way. My tanks are under the sills. A tank in the boot was not an option. Full fill is around mid 60 litres & that's around 180 miles. Manually switched from one fuel to the other & starts from cold on LPG without issue. No problems with MoT on either fuel.

Standard paper filters for me too..

Nice cheap fix!

Can we establish that the 4.2 came from a running vehicle & that you or your father saw it running with no issues and that the hotwire system came from a similar source?

Bit of an afterthought. Did you remove the rotor arm whilst working on the dizzy? I know from my own - 3.5EFi with standard electronic dizzy - and from experience of others that if you just pull the arm off it can disengage the advance/retard mechanism in the bottom of the dizzy (under the plate). This allows the rotor arm to flop about & can cause non-running. Check by turning the rotor arm with your fingers. When released it should spring back smartly to its original position. On the electronic ones you must press down on the reluctor - star shaped thing under the rotor arm - as you pull the rotor. This is not mentioned in any of the manuals, factory or others. I'm guessing that you would need to press down on the bit that opens & closes the point on a points type dizzy - I stand to be corrected! Have a look at this (old thread so some of the links may not work): https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/18599-too-much-fuel/#comment-189315

Redo the timing & ensure the dizzy clamp is tight, if it's slipped then it could cause your problem. But you need to eliminate it as a cause. I once managed to refit my dizzy a couple of teeth out & whilst it popped & farted a bit it wouldn't start. To be sure you've got No1 TDC remove the nearside rocker cover & spark plug from No1. Put a long thin rod into the plughole onto the piston. Turn the engine with a socket on the crank pulley until both valves on No1 are closed & the piston is at TDC - the purpose of the rod. You'll probably go past TDC a couple of times but just turn the engine backwards until the piston is about halfway back down then try again. Once you've got TDC check that the timing pointer is inline with the TDC mark on the crank pulley. The rotor arm should now be pointing at the position for No1 lead. If it isn't & you have enough movement in the dizzy body realign it. If you haven't then you will need to pull the dizzy & reinstall. Note that the drive gear is angled and the rotor arm will rotate as you remove the dizzy. If you are altering the position of the shaft you will need to alter the position of the oil pump drive that the bottom of the shaft engages with - easy to do, just look down the hole & you'll see it. Once you've got it running again mark the relative position of the dizzy and timing cover - I use a thin line of white paint across the two so any movement is easy to see. Dynamic timing can be done either with a timing light or by road test. I found the latter to be the best option. This from another website: This is from the RPi site.''Its also worth noting that the best ignition timing in any given engine, is to achieve the most advance it can tolerate without pinking. ( Audible pre-ignition). This is achieved by setting your V8 timing to about 4 deg. BTDC (assuming you've been through the distributor check list completely). Then tighten the distributor so that you can (with effort) still turn it by hand. ideally put a tip-ex mark or small scratch on the distributor body and engine block to record this spot. Next road test the car and simulate high load by quickly shifting into a high gear or if Auto allow to change quickly up to 3rd or 4th Ideally you need to find a small hill or incline, now if you apply full throttle the engine should respond without pinking, find a safe place to pull over, open the bonnet and turn the distributor through a couple of degrees only, anticlockwise, this will add slightly more advance timing and if you do the same test, and repeat it until pinking is noticed you will be very close to your absolute best timing criteria So now all you need to do is turn the distributor clockwise by the same amount by an amount to counteract the last adjust, retest for the absence of pinking and that the job done, you will have just achieved the best maximum timing position for your car'' When you've done it, go home, get the timing light out & record the point on the crank pulley that the pointer aligns with - the white paint again!. I found with mine that 6deg BTDC on petrol was optimum - my LR factory manual gave TDC+/-1deg. The low glow when running indicates a fault in the diode pack in the alternator. It may still be - and in your case I would say is - charging. Diode pack is replaceable & there are a few 'how to's' on the internet.

Mine's a 1986 & the chassis number is stamped on the outside right front (UK driver's side) of the chassis between the front of the chassis spring mounting and the front suspension radius arm. Took a fair amount of wire brushing to see it! ETA. Just found this on another website: http://www.lrfaq.org/FAQ.3.Chassis_Numbers.html Range Rovers Stamped on the right hand side chassis member forward of the front spring mounting turret RANGE ROVER Classic with Vogue body (not sure about NAS County) has chassis number stamped in rear/passenger cross member (in front of rear wheel)

Was the car OK before the problem with the exhaust?

Yes, I'd found the TDi one & then realised OPs is the V8 so I deleted it. Wouldn't let me delete altogether, hence the . as the only part! However, I've just found this which appears to include advice on the V8 & I note you are one of he contributors - so hopefully it might help.

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Just had a load of stuff from Island. Paid by Paypal. Items as ordered & quick delivery. No problems.

The Boge substitute thread is in the Defender forum.

It's in the Modified Vehicle Builds forum:

As you are running a thread on your air suspension mod, any chance of an update on this one please?