paintman

Would there be any reason why the plenum to AFM hose can't point forwards with the air cleaner in front of the AFM pointing towards the front of the vehicle ala RRC & P38? Or to stay with what you've got you could try fitting the plenum & hoses etc then making up a bracket for the throttle cable to go over the top of the hose like that in FFs pic - if that would be feasible welding it to the stub where you've cut the not required stuff off. According to your build thread you're using a manual box so the kickdown cable isn't required.

Can you reshape it so it puts the cable hole higher to clear the intake hose or do you need the kickdown cable? Take it there's no chance of the hose from the plenum going forward?

Can't you shorten the bit you've cut off & weld it back onto the bit that's left so it looks like the one in FF's pic?

Where's the bit with the hole that holds the outer cable of the accelerator cable so when you put your foot down the inner cable pulls the throttle open?

If you mean the one that attaches to the Boge unit itself then it's 575882. Pictured here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-REAR-SUSPENSION-SELF-LEVELLER-UNIT-BALL-JOINT-575882-/271045088729

Put one of these into my 3-cell maglite. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Maglite-LED-Upgrade-TTS-Conversion-Cree-XP-G2-Bulb-for-3-4-5-6-D-C-Cell-Torch-/272103684892?hash=item3f5aa4bb1c:g:tDgAAOSw-kdX0odn Light sabres anyone?

I use one of the tripod mounted floodlights & it's a huge help. ETA This: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/chl500td-halogen-floodlight-500w230v/

Currently considering replacing seals in the 4 bolt steering box in my RRC. Wear in the input & output shafts will be dealt with by the use of sleeves. Various suppliers of seals on the internet incl aftermarket, genuine & OEM. Of interest are the options manufactured by Zeus Engineering :http://www.zeus.uk.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=3 There are a few comments on the net, but can't find anything from those who've actually used them. Would be interested in hearing from those who've used them with any advice re fitting & issues. By PM if you don't want to go public! Thank you.

I've got one of the Clarke ones that allow you to both. Can't remember the last time I used it gasless. Cardboard strategically placed helps to keep the gas from blowing away. Changed from C02 to Argoshield last year & wish I'd done it years ago. Converted it to a Eurotorch about the same time & again, wish I'd done it years ago! One of the best welding accessories I ever bought was an auto-darkening helmet.

Could the sludge be a result of previous gasket failure allowing oil into the cooling system? Suggest a flush & see what happens. Try: http://www.forteuk.co.uk/product.php?id=41/Bio_Degreaser and/or http://www.forteuk.co.uk/product.php?id=36/Cooling_System_Flush You might have to shop around as these are trade products & not commonly found in 'motorists shops'. Ebay is a source as are motor factors.

I used Galvafroid on a boat trailer. The main support beams have been Galvafroided from new steel & in the main, although brittle its been good. Where there is an issue is where water from inside the boat whilst on the trailer drips onto the rear of the steel the galvafroid doesn't last & rust then works under & lifts more of it. I've cleaned & repainted that area on an annual basis, so I'm a bit disappointed.

Can't help with the hinges, but with the ally framed ones DON'T close by using the handle in the middle. The frame will bow slightly & closing becomes a PITA. Press on the bottom corners instead. Seems to be a common thing with them. Guess how I found out?

The piston seals have restricted expansion room by the caliper body. If you put them on the piston out of the body to see what they look like they will be loose as they can stretch without restriction. Aftermarket wiper seal retainers ( the metal rings) can be sized to fit by pushing them into position the wrong way round then carefully removing them, fitting the seals then putting them in the right way round.

Cut a slot in the end of the stud & use a screwdriver to hold it still.

An old MoT tester recommended to me a 50/50 mix of new engine oil & grease. Applied with a paint brush. Works too. You just have to be careful working under the car!

Spring under the top cover on mine too. Was like that when I bought it & 19 years later still fine & the cover has never popped off.

RRC 3.5 EFi auto, flapper AFM. On gas now for over 12 years. Started off with a gas ring then changed to a BLOS. The BLOS is much better, instantly cured an occasional tendency to stall in low speed manouvering, better throttle response & improved mpg slightly.

Complex vehicles electronically. If any you look at have things not working or fault messages showing walk away. Unless you want to be lining the pockets of your local dealer/independent than you will need model specific diagnostic equipment not just a code reader.

Seems to be a bit of confusion with part numbers, for auto transmissions ESR2276 shows as petrol V8 and ESR3489/UBC100840 shows as diesels You might want to have a look at the microcat parts list: http://lrparts.ru/engl/ Click on 'Spare parts catalogue ' and then the vehicle in the left hand margin & go from there. Pic of ESR2277/PCB101420: http://www.nationwidecoolingservices.com/?page=search&comps_oe=ESR2277%2FPBC101420&sby=sboe&subbutton=Search&st=oc Pic of ESR3489/UBC100840: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UBC100840-AUTOMATIKOLKUHLER-RANGE-ROVER-P38-DIESEL-/230912586277?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item35c3767225 Pic of ESR2276: http://www.paddockspares.com/esr2276-oil-cooler.html

Later heads don't have holes for the outer row of head bolts. Done away with as there is a tendency for them to tip the head slightly. If your replacement heads do have this outer row the usual practice is to fit the bolts to fill the holes but just nip them up. Composite gaskets can be used on earlier engines, but as already said they are thicker so there will be a slight reduction in CR. Can't remember hiow much difference it actually makes.

Number of possible issues including belt & pulley condition. Is the belt an alternator belt - cutouts on the inner side - or smooth? After starting the load on the alternator makes the alternator harder for the engine to turn & this make the problem worse - does it also happen if you have a lot of electrics on? On my RRC I have an alternator belt & have around 5mm of deflection on the longest run. I did have a problem with the adjusting nuts slipping & this extra slackness manifested itself either by squealing or the tacho needle (draws current from the alternator) suddenly dropping at idle.

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P38 2.5 is, as you say, the BMW diesel, The 200 & 300 TDis were never used in this vehicle in the UK. From your description of the fluid I wonder if components in the box are breaking up hence the carp in the fluid. Ashcrofts do comment on issues with auto boxes after fluid changes. Suggest another filter & fluid change on the basis that you have nothing to lose. Low levels are also causes of autobox problems.

If its a quality good looking piece of kit why spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar? If you want cheap & cheerful - and plug ugly - just give them a 22mm 90 deg copper domestic pipe joint with a couple of bits of rubber hose & clips. Doesn't come much cheaper. If you're ordering in quantity you're best speaking to the supplier to see what they can do deal/trade wise.

Earlier injected V8s - mine's a 1986 3.5 EFi - have a hose from the inlet manifold (ram housing) to the brake servo. No accumulator or pump.