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About basquen

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  1. HiJust about to fit a set of Terrafrima remote reservoir adjustable shocks to a Discovery 3OOtdi.Has anyone got a recommended place to fit the rear reservoir? There is plenty length on the hose but I'm looking for a area where it won't be too exposed yet easy to access to adjust. It looks like the behind the sills just to the front of the rear wheel arch is good compromise. Any ideas ?
  2. Finally managed to remove and repair the pump yesterday. Amazing what difference a good sunny day can make. Plenty of patience and a good range of socket extensions etc and the pump came off and back on reasonably easily. Quite a satisfying job.
  3. There is a good post here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56096 This is the job I was planning. However it doesn't actually cover removing the pump. However it was cold wet and hailing as I was looking at this yesterday so perhaps there was just a lack of patience from me!
  4. Hi everyone, I'm about to tackle a leaking 300tdi (auto) vacuum pump by replacing the cover rivets with bolts and nylocs. 6 bolts hold the pump to the block. The top 3 are reasonably easy to access but the other 3 are going to be a pain to remove and I would guess and even bigger pain to refit. Has anyone done this job recently? How straightforward was it ? If I can get hold of an angled chuck I'm thinking of doing the job in situ instead. Has anyone tried this successfully? 1997 300Tdi EDC Auto
  5. Hi, Can anyone confirm the correct part number for the flywheel locking pin on a 300tdi EDC auto? The workshop manual refers to a difference between a non EDC and an EDC manaul but doesn't give a part number for the EDC auto version...
  6. We replaced all parts except for the crankshaft pulley. No signs of wear on the inside of the cover. I'm taking the pump to a diesel specialist this week to see what he thinks before we put it all back together. General feedback from other owners is that they are indeed bullet proof but Steve B's recent end float experiences sound like this could be the problem.
  7. Hi, My 300tdi EDC Jap import has 200000km on the clock. My last timing belt did approx 75000 km without any problems. It didn't look particularly tired when it was replaced 10 months ago. The new timing belt just gave up after only 14000km. The parts use were all correct (cross-checked against VIN) and the tension was set as per the workshop manual. So this weekend we're about to fit a new belt but I'm still bothered as to why the previous one broke. On inspection is has worn along one edge (towards front of vehicle) and finally snapped across its width which suggest an alignment issue. The two pulleys on the the tensioner are fine, the crankshaft pulley is firmly in place (Woodruff key and it's slot are both in good condition). The camshaft pulley is OK. However, I have a doubt concerning the fuel injection pump pulley. The 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the hub are tight as is the centre nut that holds the hub to the shaft. There is however a slight movement on the pulley (less than 1mm) when grasped by hand. Could this be the culprit or is a minimal movement normal on these pumps? If this was a road wheel it would indicate a problem with the bearings. Microcat just shows the complete pump Is there a bearing that can fail on the pump shaft? Any help or ideas would be much appreciated !
  8. The full kit was fitted and I can only assume the tension was correct. I'll open it week to see if I can tell what happened.
  9. I've now seen through the oil fill that the rockers aren't moving when turning over the engine so it looks like it's the cambelt. Last changed 11 months ago / approx 14,000km so it was the last thing I was expecting!
  10. The engine cut out yesterday whilst off-road in the woods. Plenty of water splashing up into the engine bay but nothing too dramatic. I've had this vehicle for 4 years with no problems evening after deep wading. My first thought was a dodgy/wet connection to the fuel cut-out solenoid connection but a direct feed to the it made no difference. I've tested the solenoid out on the bench and it's OK. Just to be sure I removed the spring and plunger and tried starting that way. Still no joy so it's clearly not the solenoid. I can draw diesel using the lift pump (at least as far as the filter bleed). Next step is probably to crack open the feeds to the injectors to see if the diesel is getting that far. I was wondering if the the throttle sensor could be playing up. The pedal runs smooth to about 3/4 travel then there is a hardness. To be honest I thought the footmat was getting caught at first. It's a pain to even get a glimpse at this part because it's buried up behind the fuse box. I'll try and investigate some more. All dash lights are working as normal, all fuses checked, ... This is a japanese import so no alarm spider to worry about. Frustratingly I don't have access to any diagnostic testing.
  11. I'll start a new thread for the no start issue to avoid confusion
  12. I've now solved the key problem. There is a solenoid at the back of the barrel which moves a pin to enable the key to go from '1' back to '0'; With the cover off all it needs is a flick of a finger to release the mechanism.
  13. Hi, Since yesterday the ignition key no longer goes to position '0' so it can't be removed. Auto box in P, transfer engaged. I can hear the inhibitor click when pressing the brake pedal and I can run through the gears OK. Does anyone know what controls the barrel and prevents the key going no further back than position '1' ? This is on top of breaking down yesterday whilst on the road. Engine just died. All the symptoms of the fuel cut-off solenoid failing but pulled it out this morning and it is working fine (even tried without plunger). Fuel arriving OK at filter bleed screw using lift pump. Engine cranks fine but no hint of firing up. Could the two issues be related ? 1997 300Tdi EDC japanese import
  14. Hi, Has anyone tried the fuel pump mod on a 300tdi EDC auto which involves adding a variable resistor ? Can anyone point me to a good write-up ?
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