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HiJust about to fit a set of Terrafrima remote reservoir adjustable shocks to a Discovery 3OOtdi.Has anyone got a recommended place to fit the rear reservoir? There is plenty length on the hose but I'm looking for a area where it won't be too exposed yet easy to access to adjust. It looks like the behind the sills just to the front of the rear wheel arch is good compromise. Any ideas ?

Finally managed to remove and repair the pump yesterday. Amazing what difference a good sunny day can make. Plenty of patience and a good range of socket extensions etc and the pump came off and back on reasonably easily. Quite a satisfying job.

There is a good post here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56096 This is the job I was planning. However it doesn't actually cover removing the pump. However it was cold wet and hailing as I was looking at this yesterday so perhaps there was just a lack of patience from me!

Hi everyone, I'm about to tackle a leaking 300tdi (auto) vacuum pump by replacing the cover rivets with bolts and nylocs. 6 bolts hold the pump to the block. The top 3 are reasonably easy to access but the other 3 are going to be a pain to remove and I would guess and even bigger pain to refit. Has anyone done this job recently? How straightforward was it ? If I can get hold of an angled chuck I'm thinking of doing the job in situ instead. Has anyone tried this successfully? 1997 300Tdi EDC Auto

Great! Thanks for that.

Hi, Can anyone confirm the correct part number for the flywheel locking pin on a 300tdi EDC auto? The workshop manual refers to a difference between a non EDC and an EDC manaul but doesn't give a part number for the EDC auto version...

We replaced all parts except for the crankshaft pulley. No signs of wear on the inside of the cover. I'm taking the pump to a diesel specialist this week to see what he thinks before we put it all back together. General feedback from other owners is that they are indeed bullet proof but Steve B's recent end float experiences sound like this could be the problem.

Hi, My 300tdi EDC Jap import has 200000km on the clock. My last timing belt did approx 75000 km without any problems. It didn't look particularly tired when it was replaced 10 months ago. The new timing belt just gave up after only 14000km. The parts use were all correct (cross-checked against VIN) and the tension was set as per the workshop manual. So this weekend we're about to fit a new belt but I'm still bothered as to why the previous one broke. On inspection is has worn along one edge (towards front of vehicle) and finally snapped across its width which suggest an alignment issue. The two pulleys on the the tensioner are fine, the crankshaft pulley is firmly in place (Woodruff key and it's slot are both in good condition). The camshaft pulley is OK. However, I have a doubt concerning the fuel injection pump pulley. The 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the hub are tight as is the centre nut that holds the hub to the shaft. There is however a slight movement on the pulley (less than 1mm) when grasped by hand. Could this be the culprit or is a minimal movement normal on these pumps? If this was a road wheel it would indicate a problem with the bearings. Microcat just shows the complete pump Is there a bearing that can fail on the pump shaft? Any help or ideas would be much appreciated !

The full kit was fitted and I can only assume the tension was correct. I'll open it week to see if I can tell what happened.

I've now seen through the oil fill that the rockers aren't moving when turning over the engine so it looks like it's the cambelt. Last changed 11 months ago / approx 14,000km so it was the last thing I was expecting!

The engine cut out yesterday whilst off-road in the woods. Plenty of water splashing up into the engine bay but nothing too dramatic. I've had this vehicle for 4 years with no problems evening after deep wading. My first thought was a dodgy/wet connection to the fuel cut-out solenoid connection but a direct feed to the it made no difference. I've tested the solenoid out on the bench and it's OK. Just to be sure I removed the spring and plunger and tried starting that way. Still no joy so it's clearly not the solenoid. I can draw diesel using the lift pump (at least as far as the filter bleed). Next step is probably to crack open the feeds to the injectors to see if the diesel is getting that far. I was wondering if the the throttle sensor could be playing up. The pedal runs smooth to about 3/4 travel then there is a hardness. To be honest I thought the footmat was getting caught at first. It's a pain to even get a glimpse at this part because it's buried up behind the fuse box. I'll try and investigate some more. All dash lights are working as normal, all fuses checked, ... This is a japanese import so no alarm spider to worry about. Frustratingly I don't have access to any diagnostic testing.

I'll start a new thread for the no start issue to avoid confusion

I've now solved the key problem. There is a solenoid at the back of the barrel which moves a pin to enable the key to go from '1' back to '0'; With the cover off all it needs is a flick of a finger to release the mechanism.

Hi, Since yesterday the ignition key no longer goes to position '0' so it can't be removed. Auto box in P, transfer engaged. I can hear the inhibitor click when pressing the brake pedal and I can run through the gears OK. Does anyone know what controls the barrel and prevents the key going no further back than position '1' ? This is on top of breaking down yesterday whilst on the road. Engine just died. All the symptoms of the fuel cut-off solenoid failing but pulled it out this morning and it is working fine (even tried without plunger). Fuel arriving OK at filter bleed screw using lift pump. Engine cranks fine but no hint of firing up. Could the two issues be related ? 1997 300Tdi EDC japanese import

Hi, Has anyone tried the fuel pump mod on a 300tdi EDC auto which involves adding a variable resistor ? Can anyone point me to a good write-up ?

Hi, I know this goes a long way back, but I've just come across this post regarding the trouble Buzz was having with his 300tdi EDC. I have exactly the same symptons as these on my Disco 97 300tdi EDC auto : lack of power on hills at motorway speed, speed dropping, coolant gauge rising then falling, etc. Did you get to the bottom of this?

I've recently had a set of Bearmach blue coils fitted to my 97 300tdi and am concerned about the front coils. The original coils are handed: ANR4350 (passenger/left) and ANR4351 (driver/right). Using the Bearmach front set BA2106 the vehicle is leaning to the drivers side. Bearmach have confirmed that their set isn't handed. I need to try swapping sides. I'd like to know if anyone else with Bearmach or other aftermarket coils has experienced similar problems.

Thanks for that. It's got me puzzled because the temp control is working fine - I can blow hot or cold (+ A/C) out of the lower vent so the dampers appear to be Ok. Hope it's not the box itself. I wonder if a hose has been re-routed too close to the trim when the matrix/dash was put back in ? Having said that, there isn't exactly much room up in there for manoeuvre! I'm loath to strip everything back again to inspect.

Hi, Had a leaky heater matrix finally sorted on my Disco 97 300tdi. All works fine now but... I've got permanent heat coming from behind the panel next to drivers left foot. I'm guessing the hoses have been inversed as they leave the engine bay. Can anyone confirm which one goes where ? Thanks

We live in a really small village and I couldn't believe there was someone round the corner ready to slash a tyre but there was. I drove 150 metre from out barn to the village square - not a kerb in site! Got back to the car 15mins later to find a 100% flat with a clean horizontal gash in the sidewall max 1cm long. Would be happier if it was an accident but the evidence is pretty conclusive The French highway code is ineed very strict about tyres - it states that same size and type must be fitted on each axle. It's the "type" bit that leads to problems. At the minimum its "radial" etc at the maximum it's same make/model etc. In my experience french MOT stations are pretty forgiving on this. Gendarmes carrying out spot check are less more inclined let this slip by...

Someone had nothing better to do this weekend than to slash the sidewall of one of my tyres on my Disco. Only a 1cm gash in the sidewall but here in France repairs aren't allowed in the sidewall - I believe this is the same in the UK - can someone confirm ? Numerous friends (none of them not tyre dealers) have suggested it's recommended to change all 4 at the same time to avoid problems with the diffs -what's the general consensus on this ? Finally, the existing tyres are a set of Bridgestone Dueller A/T 245/70/16 which where as big as I could go without any other mods. They're great - no rubbing or scrapping. If it means changing all 4 I might well go for a set of BF Goodrich A/T's that I have on the other Disco. However these are 235 rather than 245. Has anyone tried the BFG A/T 245's on the 300tdi. With a more rugged profile I think I might be asking for trouble.... Cheers Nick

Thanks for the info and the photos. I'm going to start this weekend by removing the centre console so I can have a better look at things before taking the plunge. I'll certainly take you up on your offer and give you a call K88MUD if I decide to go ahead. Whilst looking for advice I came across this post on another forum : Does this sound feasible to anyone ?

Hi, I assumed the air-con drain was blocked (again) on drivers side (97 300tdi auto) but then noticed that it's coolant and not water under my feet. Not a massive leak (header tanks down 1cm, no signs of overheating) but clearly needs sorting. Having searched the forum I can see that the full job is a 6h strip down and 4-5 hour rebuild just to get to the matrix. P38's seem to have a issue with O- rings. Is there a similar recurring fault with the 300tdi ? If it's just the hose connectors rather than the matrix itself - is there any chance of getting to the leaky culprit without taking dash out ? The 300tdi has airbags and aircon to contend with as well. Is there anyone who has been confronted with a similar problem recently and can offer advice or point me towards tutorial/pics ? I would be really grateful ! Cheers _________________ 1994 300Tdi Manual 1997 300Tdi EDC Auto Japan import

Thanks for the feedback. I'd already checked out your tech archive Les - really clear - will be a great help. I'll have a good clean up & inspection this weekend and make a decision. Cheers Nick

Hi, Just spotted a pin hole leak on the rear diff pan cover. on my 94 300tdi. I've got the choice of complete pan replacement using a weld-on pan (under £25 in parts but I'll need to find a good welder) or patching with liquid metal. The second solution sounds quicker but I guess I might just be putting things and off and it'll go again (sooner rather than later). I've yet to clean up the axle to have a good look at the rest but could be the first sign of more rot to come... Anyone tackled this job recently ? Thanks Nick