spud murphy

Same here from cold, engine revs and things are sluggish up the sloping drive. Changes up slowly when on the flat until the 1st mile or so. When warm drive is transmitted in a positive fashion. 300TDi non edc

Don't want a swop do you stripy???

Good links there chaps, looks like a to do job when the weather clears! Does anybody know if the manual type sunroofs are the same footprint as the electric piles of tripe that are fitted to my 300 ES?. If so I think a change is in the offing. Sorry to hijack the thread, any answers greatly appreciated. Cheers John

Cheers Ally, must be loads of them knocking about, I'll ask some friends in the trade. Thanks John

Cheers David plenty to think about!! She seized after blowing number 5 during hi speed motorway run, mrs wondered what the strange noise was

Hi all, does anybody know if the 2.5 straight six diesel engine of a '99 rangie was ever used in any of the BMW car range?. Got one thats gone bang and wondered if it would be possible if a transplant could be obtained from a write off. Just trying to spread the net a wide as possible. Thanks for any help, cheers all

Cheers Les Lifespan fit, that'd be nice!

Hi all Just replaced the head gasket on my 95 300TDi. Was chuffing out the back on No4 pot. Got a genuine LR set and the gasket looked nothing like any I've seen before. Looked like multiple layers of thin steel that get compressed around a central core. Anyone got any info when they changed to this style, helped a mate do his who got one from an online store last month and it was the traditional style. Cheers for any info

Cheers for the replies, I'll have a shop at Screwfix!

Hi all I'm getting geared up for a suspension overhaul on a 300tdi disco. New springs, shocks and bushes all round as the ride is terrible! Does anybody know what size nuts and bolts are req'd for the spring retainers and front shock turrets.? The original ones look as though they arn't coming off without a fight and I'd rather have new stuff to hand rather than running back and forth trying to identify whats needed with the truck in bits Any help much appreciated, cheers John

Had this a while ago, as bog said it was a failed solenoid. Would even try to crank when running and you went over a bump. Nasty gnashing of metal!

Mine was the same come the cold weather, and this was after a rad replacement due to collapsed fins. I too changed stats and hunted for air leaks but in the end I now remove the viscous fan in winter (no probs yet with overheating, when staionary after a couple of minutes the gauge falls back down to C at idle) and warms up quick with out it. I think the engine has a lot of spare capacity temp wise WHEN everything is in good order ie rad unblocked engine waterways clear etc Cheers

Yep thats the one! Must try mine now. Cheers

The wash wipe amongst other things is contolled by the Multi Function Unit. This can be placed in a diagnostic mode if I recall and will power the various circuits when differant buttons are pressed. Cant remember how you get to diag mode though. Anyone shed any light?

Cheers for the replies, nuts and bolts at the ready. Cheers

Hi all Just received and am trying to fit the front and rear kits from Paddocks part nums RTC6821 (rear) and RTC6820 (front). After removing the old remains of the original flaps it looks as though the the old fixings consisted of a large domed screw with a threaded 'top hat' nut to screw it all together. The replacements look identical but the top hat is not threaded. Spoke to Paddocks who said they're all like that and I'm the first person to ring 'em about it?? Any one fitted these kits? Cheers John

Cheers Guys, session on testbook it is then £££

Hi all Just fitted some track rod ends and decided to remove the steering wheel to reset the dead ahead position. Like a t1t took it for a run without the airbag to check that all was well before refitting the bag and it now looks as though the shed was unhappy about this and is merrily winking away. Is this a stealer only reset or are there any dodges that don't involve removing the bulb. Cheers all

Cheers Jim Yep the allen bolt was out, but as tension was taken up everything wants to move left. Not a problem with the injection pump pulley as this was slack and moved fully to the right before tension applied(pump locked up with the pin) but this movement also pulled the cam round to the left as well by a tooth or so. Had to resort to moving the cam on a tooth so that everything would line up when tightened. Seems to have worked as it's running nice and smoothly now. Cheers John

Yep thats right. I loosened and turned fully to the right the IP pulley bolts so that when the tensioner was tightened it would pull back left the small amount required. Unfortunately it also pulled the cam back with it. I found that because the crank cog has got the lip cast into it, it was difficult to slip this on as would have been the case with the unlipped version. This meant that the belt was placed around the crank cog first then up to the cam via the idler, around the IP then back to the crank via the tensioner, but because by this time so many teeth were in engagement it was impossible to juggle things around to keep tension between crank and cam as required to leave the slack on the tensioner side. Cheers John

Hi all After the recent marathon engine shenanagans, injection pump, timing belt, fuel delivery components and a busted rad, thought I'd post this up if it's any use With the engine locked up at TDC and following the Haynes instructions 'feed the new timing belt over the pulleys and tighten tensioner' I found that the cam was pulled away from the correct position when the tensioner was tightened up. Colured dots in diagram are for illustration The red dots in the diagram =TDC and when tensioned it would rest at the blue dot. BTDC The trick was to place the belt on with the cam advanced 1 tooth at the green dot and when tightened up the belt would pull the cam back to TDC. Hope it helps, couldn't for the life of me see any other way around it and as the belt was so close a fit around the components there was no lee way for adjustment without loseing the tension from around the crank to cam pulley and being a tooth out on the belt. Runs like a clock now, cheers John

Who have been mines of information regarding the threads, no get up and go disco, argggh radiator and timing belt kits. Disco 300 TDi ES auto now back on the road and pulling well with not a hint of smoke and all fluids etc intact. To date it now has New sender unit, fuel lines, fliter, new lift pump,(cheaper options 1st!) and a rebuilt injection pump plus timing belt kit. Also that K Seal jollop was amazing for the radiator, leak stopped in 2 minutes. Injection pump was rebuilt for £175 by these guys, real friendly and a very helpfull bunch, highly recommended so cheers Pete and Chris http://www.ss-diesel-services.co.uk/history.html (Hope it's allright to put the link up??) Thanks again all, no doubt I'll be in touch when the next bit falls off!! Cheers John.

Cheers Pete, I'll go ahead and fit. Thanks for the reply, John

Hi all. Right still waiting to resurrect the disco after the injection pump went west and have now compiled all the rebuild components and weather permitting it will be rebuilt this weekend. However, when the engine timing belt was removed there was evidence of rubber dust and debris within and a rub mark on the timing cover down by the crank dust seal . The disco has only got 69k on the clock and we had the belt done as a matter of course when we got it at 49k. Now the original components on the engine were straight crank cog ie no rims, a rimmed black plastic tensioner roller and smooth metal idler roller. I've just opened the brand new timing kit with cogs from Craddocks and now have a rimmed crank cog and two unrimmed metal tensioner and idler rollers. Is this the correct combo?? or was the plastic rimmed tensioner roller an up grade or original kit. Should the crank cog and tensioner roller be rimmed? or have I just forked out £88 for half an up graded kit? I noticed that in Les' excellent timing belt change thread in the tech forum that smooth metal rollers are shown. Cheers all, John

Cheers guys