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dra890

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About dra890

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    Northerner living darn sarf

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  1. I'm with FridgeFreezer on this - I tried using high-temp exhaust paint on an ACR silencer to make it last longer, but it still rusted through in about the same time as an unpainted one. Dan
  2. If you're commited to an oilbath filter it might be worth seeing if you can find one from a six cylinder. They're a bit bigger and supposed to flow more - it looks like this project might benefit from that. Dan
  3. I don't think the roughness will help you with atomisation too much, what with fuel injection and the manifold hotspot. What I would do is to put a smooth radius on the bottom of that hole, blending it into the rest of the manifold to help the mixture turn that corner. It reportedly makes a big difference to flow. Dan
  4. Since you guys are usually so helpful I thought I'd ask this here. I have a design for an inlet manifold. The runners can be made from commercially available tube bends butt welded together, the plenum is basically a truncated pyramid, and I need the flange plate cutting. In early December I sent the details off to a company who agreed to do this for me, but they still haven't looked at it. Does anybody know where I could find someone to fabricate this for me? Thanks Dan
  5. Just to round this up, since the wire connecting the bulkhead post to the battery didn’t have any effect I disconnected it from the battery, fed it through the bulkhead and jury-rigged it into the auxiliary lamp earth to test out my idea. Ran it for a couple of days like this without the fault occurring. I also noticed that the dash was a little brighter like this. Then I unplugged it and the problem returned. So a length of 5 amp cable and a couple of ring connectors to replace the earth lead from the left hand bezel to the bulkhead earth post and my problem’s solved. Dan
  6. Actually over reading is too many volts. That’s the thing that’s been puzzling me most about this. It suggests the voltage stabiliser either has a bad earth, or voltage reaching its earth (when the lights are on) and this is stopping it switching to reduce the voltage to the gauges. But the stabiliser shares its earth with the gauges, so this effect should cancel out. I’m wondering if I just have an earth problem on the left hand bezel where the stabiliser is, but the right bezel which houses the gauges is okay. But then would this cause the dash light problems I’m seeing which effects both be
  7. I have an annoying intermittent problem with my series 3’s dashboard. When I have my lights on (sidelight, headlight, main beam, it doesn’t matter) the dash lights frequently dim and flicker and the indicator repeater lights on the dash do the same. In addition both the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge will read too high while this is happening. If I happen to be indicating while this is happening then the dashboard indicator repeater that should be flashing will remain dimly lit and not flash, but will sometimes pulse, and the opposite repeater can pulse with it. None of the externa
  8. Update. Okay, so after ruling out ignition (no really it is definitely NOT the ignition - different coils, points, plugs and distributors have had no effect and I've checked the ignition system out several times) I decided to look more closely at fuelling. Incidentally, I checked compression shortly before leaving it for a year and the readings were, from cylinders 1-4, 147, 144, 144, 151, and that was dry with the spark plugs still in the non-tested cylinders, so with less than a 5% spread and decent figures I don't think there'll be anything wrong there. I also thought of a sticky valve,
  9. Yes, I've checked the advance works correctly, both vacuum and centrifugal. Plus, as I say I tried changing the whole distributor for a known good one, with no change for better or worse. Dan
  10. I wonder if anyone can help me. I have a series 3 2.25 petrol with an SU hif44 carburettor that was left undriven for a year. Upon starting to drive it again I found that the revs seem to be limited. At first I couldn't get above about 30mph in third gear and low forties in fourth - about 2500rpm on my landrover (32 inch tyres). After seeing fuel coming out of the overflow I thought 'Aha, sticking float' so I emptied the carburettor's float bowl and sprayed carb cleaner in through the fuel inlet pipe until it came out of the overflow, then again with my finger blocking the over flow so it ca
  11. No, the springs don't have a direction. But yes it can be a real pain to get everything to line up properly. I found that ratchet straps come in handy. Dan
  12. This weekend I stripped and refurbished my front leaf springs and I thought I'd write a little guide to show how I did it. First of all you need to remove the springs from the vehicle. Actually, I removed one, refurbished it and refit it before doing the same at the other side. It is also a good idea to replace the bushes at the same time if they are anything less than impeccable. Here is one of the springs once removed. You can see how the leaves have been blown apart somewhat by rust and dirt. Before stripping the spring apart I wanted to make sure I could get it back on the vehicle
  13. Just had this issue myself - had the garage replace the master cylinder and when I got it back the clutch bit as soon as I thought about lifting my foot. I re-bled it and managed to get a couple of bubbles out which improved things slightly, then I adjusted the clutch pedal. Open the bonnet and remove the cover plate over the master cylinder (6 screws to undo). You should now see where the clutch pedal pushes a rod into the master cylinder. This rod is threaded and passes through the clutch pedal, being held on either side by a pair of nuts. get someone to hold the clutch down from the driver'
  14. Would you be able to scan these cam profiles and send me a copy, I've been trying to get hold of something like that for ages. I'd really appreciate it. Thanks Dan
  15. On the subject of water injection have a look at this site: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110368/article.html They talk about using the water pump from an espresso machine with a cheap inverter to get the high pressure needed for good atomisation, whilst still being pretty cheap to buy and put together. Dan
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