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    Northerner living darn sarf

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  1. I've tried emailing him a number of times at his company over the last few months, but haven't had any replies.
  2. Does anyone know if something has happened to Discomikey? I arranged for him to fabricate something for me last June, with a 2-3 week lead time. There were a couple of issues which caused delays and I've been trying to contact him to find out what the current situation is, but I've not been able to get a reply from him for nearly 6 months. Thanks
  3. It is possible to adjust the gauges. There are two slots in the back. usually behind little cork discs - one for the high reading end and one for the low reading end. There's meant to be a special tool, but they can be adjusted with a screwdriver. Think carefully before adjusting though, this should be the last option, and only if you're certain that everything else is correct. And if you do go this way be careful - adjusting them they're only thin pieces of tin(?) so they bend very easily. Dan
  4. I had similar a couple of years ago, although I could hold third too. Turned out that the mainshaft was in two pieces. It's going to have to be opened up to be sure. I'd prepare myself for a large bill. Dan
  5. I'm with FridgeFreezer on this - I tried using high-temp exhaust paint on an ACR silencer to make it last longer, but it still rusted through in about the same time as an unpainted one. Dan
  6. If you're commited to an oilbath filter it might be worth seeing if you can find one from a six cylinder. They're a bit bigger and supposed to flow more - it looks like this project might benefit from that. Dan
  7. I don't think the roughness will help you with atomisation too much, what with fuel injection and the manifold hotspot. What I would do is to put a smooth radius on the bottom of that hole, blending it into the rest of the manifold to help the mixture turn that corner. It reportedly makes a big difference to flow. Dan
  8. Since you guys are usually so helpful I thought I'd ask this here. I have a design for an inlet manifold. The runners can be made from commercially available tube bends butt welded together, the plenum is basically a truncated pyramid, and I need the flange plate cutting. In early December I sent the details off to a company who agreed to do this for me, but they still haven't looked at it. Does anybody know where I could find someone to fabricate this for me? Thanks Dan
  9. Just to round this up, since the wire connecting the bulkhead post to the battery didn’t have any effect I disconnected it from the battery, fed it through the bulkhead and jury-rigged it into the auxiliary lamp earth to test out my idea. Ran it for a couple of days like this without the fault occurring. I also noticed that the dash was a little brighter like this. Then I unplugged it and the problem returned. So a length of 5 amp cable and a couple of ring connectors to replace the earth lead from the left hand bezel to the bulkhead earth post and my problem’s solved. Dan
  10. Actually over reading is too many volts. That’s the thing that’s been puzzling me most about this. It suggests the voltage stabiliser either has a bad earth, or voltage reaching its earth (when the lights are on) and this is stopping it switching to reduce the voltage to the gauges. But the stabiliser shares its earth with the gauges, so this effect should cancel out. I’m wondering if I just have an earth problem on the left hand bezel where the stabiliser is, but the right bezel which houses the gauges is okay. But then would this cause the dash light problems I’m seeing which effects both bezels and the indicator repeaters equally? Confusing!
  11. I have an annoying intermittent problem with my series 3’s dashboard. When I have my lights on (sidelight, headlight, main beam, it doesn’t matter) the dash lights frequently dim and flicker and the indicator repeater lights on the dash do the same. In addition both the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge will read too high while this is happening. If I happen to be indicating while this is happening then the dashboard indicator repeater that should be flashing will remain dimly lit and not flash, but will sometimes pulse, and the opposite repeater can pulse with it. None of the external lights are affected at all by any of this. I’ve checked all the front and rear sidelight bulb contacts, connected the front sidelight earth wires directly (via a connection block) to the battery earth, taped the wires behind the dash from the dash light switch to the bulbs with insulating tape, cleaned both dashboard bezel earth connections, cleaned the bulkhead earth terminal, and run a lead directly from this terminal to the battery earth. None of this seems to have made a difference. Any suggestions? Dan
  12. Update. Okay, so after ruling out ignition (no really it is definitely NOT the ignition - different coils, points, plugs and distributors have had no effect and I've checked the ignition system out several times) I decided to look more closely at fuelling. Incidentally, I checked compression shortly before leaving it for a year and the readings were, from cylinders 1-4, 147, 144, 144, 151, and that was dry with the spark plugs still in the non-tested cylinders, so with less than a 5% spread and decent figures I don't think there'll be anything wrong there. I also thought of a sticky valve, but unless it's only sticking at higher revs it would've shown up on the vacuum guage. So I'll not persue this just yet. I'd already checked out the glass bowl on the fuel pump and there was no water or sediment. Fuel pressure and volume at idle seemed fine, but admittedly this doesn't tell me if it can keep up when demand is high. I decided that since blasting carb cleaner through the carb had helped maybe I just hadn't gotten all of the dirt, so I removed the carb and opened up the bottom half (HIF44). It looked clean inside but since I was already in there I gave it a good spray around with carb cleaner, and sprayed up the jet from that end for good measure. I then re-fit the carb and gave it a run (mostly to make sure I hadn't stuffed anything up). The landrover pulled up to 47-48mph in third - just over 4000rpm in my landrover, before showing the same symptoms, so it is an improvement but it's not quite there yet. This was last night. My next port of call is my inline filter. While it seems clean it isn't impossible that it might swell or partially collapse under high flow conditions, and it's an easy, free test to run with a spare, or without for a day or so. I also intend to check the filter gauze in the fuel pump itself just above the glass bowl. A small issue in each area could combine to make a bigger problem. Wish me luck. Dan
  13. Yes, I've checked the advance works correctly, both vacuum and centrifugal. Plus, as I say I tried changing the whole distributor for a known good one, with no change for better or worse. Dan
  14. I wonder if anyone can help me. I have a series 3 2.25 petrol with an SU hif44 carburettor that was left undriven for a year. Upon starting to drive it again I found that the revs seem to be limited. At first I couldn't get above about 30mph in third gear and low forties in fourth - about 2500rpm on my landrover (32 inch tyres). After seeing fuel coming out of the overflow I thought 'Aha, sticking float' so I emptied the carburettor's float bowl and sprayed carb cleaner in through the fuel inlet pipe until it came out of the overflow, then again with my finger blocking the over flow so it came out of the jet. I then ran the engine and found it much better. The engine will now run to around 40mph in third , but this is still only around 3500rpm. There should be around another thousand rpm available. It pulls strongly up to 40mph but then refuses to pull any higher, almost like it has a rev limiter. What could this be? It is not the ignition. I've tried individually changing the coil and distributor for correctly set known good ones, and different spark plugs have been tried. Pulling the king lead/individual plug leads I can get strong sparks to the block. I've since stripped and cleaned the top of the carburettor. I removed the dash pot and cleaned inside with a soft cloth and petrol, the same for the piston, and carefully wiped and inspected the needle without damaging it. None of these were dirty or in bad condition. I also sprayed carb cleaner down the jet with a straw attachment, and spraying into the float bowl through the fuel inlet with the overflow blocked it came out of the jet strong enough to miss the engine and wing and nearly hit the next car over. I then correctly reassembled the carburettor and refilled the damper, but this has made no difference. The piston opens fully when revved. I've also tried looking for vaccuum leaks but found none. All the hoses are attached correctly and the engine has good vaccuum - over 22 inches at idle. It never used to do this. Does anyone have any ideas?
  15. No, the springs don't have a direction. But yes it can be a real pain to get everything to line up properly. I found that ratchet straps come in handy. Dan
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