PITBULL

Any idea what this could be? Starts but ticks over real low about 4-500rpm for about a minute after being left overnight but even when restarting straight away ticks over for a few seconds low. Nothing happens when I press the accelerator when it ticking over low but as soon as it jumps to normal tick over drives fine 🤷‍♂️ I’ve tried: crank sensor off a working vehicle. Crank sensor shim New non return valve

I’m getting it checked on the weekend. It’s got a AMC head on it so hopefully shouldn’t be a issue with the head.

Haven’t recently drained system. I noticed a big puddle under my Land Rover, that’s when I found out it was going over the top of my tank but nowhere seamed to be wet on the vehicle. The puddle has never happened again and I think it might have been just been condensation from the night but it was a lot and it took all day to dry. Round town it’s fine and I haven’t had the puddle since, just comes out after a run at about 60-70mph.

Got a issue with my td5, I seam to be losing coolant but out of the header tank cap? (Have tried a 2nd old cap and a new apparently genuine but didn’t come in a bag) It don’t overheat, I don’t lose heaters, oil looks good, water don’t seam to have oil in it and the pipes don’t go solid but I do get lots of little bubbles out the bleed nipple and into the expansion tank especially when rev’d. Only seams to happen after driving at higher speeds (60-70mph) seams to be ok round town. Any idea what it could be? Also just got a nanocom, is there any tests you can do with that that might point out a problem?

The loss of power was solved by the MAF sensor but I haven’t done a hard pull in it since as I am a bit worried it’ll damage the new MAF sensor 😳 but I thought it might be overboost. I’ll have a look at all the pipe work tomorrow. It has a K&N air filter on it 😳 not sure if it’s oiled or not? 🤔

Thanks for your time to try helping. It puts my mind at rest a bit about the damage to the MAF. I’ve just replaced the fuel filter but will have a look through the rest of the fuel system to make sure it’s all ok 👍

I’ve replaced the the MAF sensor now and it’s fixed the lack of power for the 1st 15-20 seconds. But the thing I’m worried about is the loss of power when full throttle for a period of time? When it happened first time it was going up hill and it was like it hit a limiter. But then when trying again on a flat it done it again but was still accelerating, so it was obvious it wasn’t a limiter? I’m worried to try now incase it damages the new MAF but I can’t see how it would but it was after that happening a few times the loss of power at start started 🤷‍♂️

Having a issue with my newly purchased td5 where when full throttle in 3rd about 3,500Rpm it loses power. Now it’s happened a few times so to try working out what’s happening while accelerating hard through the gears I change before 3,500rpm but then it happened in 4th? The problems continues as now it’s got no power for about 15-20 seconds on start up (even if it’s been running and turned off the straight back on) now I think I’ve narrowed the start one to the MAF sensor as when I disconnected it it made no difference so ordered a new one. But I’m worried that the lose of power on a long pull possibly caused the MAF failure? Anybody have any ideas what the issue could be?

That is a thing of beauty 😍

Can’t believe you ordered plates online! I would have been straight down the local parts store for a set straight away 😂 congrats! I’m still dreaming of a 109 F8 🤤

4.56 with a roll

£1000/ton? surely thats a typo otherwise im off out to buy some £500 disco's did you hit the zero one to many times

not really no I'm in the process of building a 100" but i'm now thinking about a bobtail 110 maybe i should get a 2 door 110 and if it turns out to long then i'll have all the panels to make a 100" already got the chassis

The reason I ask is at a pay & play I go to has got some really bad bits and one bit in particular there is a section that people try use to be drivable but where people fail and spin tyres just digs holes 100" apart with there special tracks i use to have a disco on 33s and a rear locker and got through this section no problem then watched a guy just sit there for like 5min wheel spinning digging big holes, then after him i could not get through but a 88" did with open diffs and to my knowledge no 100" has made it through since but the other weekend I was down there and in my mates 90 with open diffs and 37" boggers I would have made it (I think ) if it wasnt for when the rear wheel entered the hole made by a front wheel I almost ended up on its side so had to reverse out but my mate disco on 35" simex with front and rear lockers didn't even come close

Right everybody says 100" is the ideal wheelbase BUT I've been thinking bout this and I believe that one of the benefits to the 100" wheelbase was that back in the days that everybody was using 90's 100"s were getting through sections that 90's were failing and I put this down partly to the front wheels climbing out the hole the front wheels of a 90 made before the back wheel enter the hole the back wheels of a 90 made. So I was thinking is 100" the "perfect" wheelbase still? I've only ever done play & pays and am noticing that 100" vehicles are getting stuck in the dreaded holes that people have made in there 100" vehicles but 90" is making it which I partly put this down to the back wheels climbing out of the holes before the front end enter. now i know a longer wheelbase is more stable so my question is is a 100" wheelbase still the ideal wheelbase or is 90" or even 110"?