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TSD

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Everything posted by TSD

  1. You might get some interest from the Vintage & Military Amateur Radio Society - I've had some great help from them with other radio projects. They might be able to dig up some documentation for you. Alternatively the emergency comms group RAYNET might be interested in it as a general comms trailer project. But I suspect most of the restoration projects of this type, like Vampire 101s, comes from people who had good memories of working on or with them at some point in their former lives. These units werent't widely deployed, and seemingly weren't particularly well liked. To be honest, I had a great time messing about with them as a young engineer for a few sunny months, and even I wouldn't buy one (It was my introduction to Land Rovers too, maybe that's why I remember it fondly!) The Skanti HF radios have come up on ebay a few times over the years (as have the trailers). The HF Modems probably went into the crusher with the crypto. The data terminals probably ended up in a skip, though similar ones are sometimes on ebay at silly prices - I don't recall precisely which types were fitted. The Racal(?) antenna masts probably sold to radio amateurs, but I don't think they were specials for that job.
  2. The GKN hubs replace the axle drive flange, and internally they have a preloaded clutch pack that slips if the torque exceeds a preset value. They were used to protect the CV joints from torque spikes when spinning up big tyres. I don't think they were ever very plentiful, though a few people on this forum used them. I wasn't particularly trying to sell them (despite posting in the wrong board section - too many windows open) I was wondering if anyone still used them or has more info, hopefully someone has some setup instructions for instance?
  3. ISTR that Fridgefreezer plumbed his 109 entirely in SS flexi without any problems at all. My biggest objection would be that SS flexi is heavy and floppy, so it needs a lot of fixing down. It can quickly rub through just about anything it comes into contact with if there's any relative motion. Years ago I had a quick 'bodge' repair done on a Citroen with the high pressure hydraulic suspension using a short SS flexi. It contained the pressure ok, but caused a failure in another pipe that no-one noticed was touching at one point. I've got the same flaring tool as MR-HIPPO. It made it easy to replace all the rear brake pipes on my D3 in situ - which is the only way for a car with that many hoses pipes and wires running around
  4. Rummaging in the back of the shed at the weekend I found a pair of these that I bought s/hand but barely used many years ago. The original owner put them on an overland 130 but found they slipped too much and took them off again. Very possibly they were never adjusted out of the box. I know they are rare, but does anyone still use them? I haven't seen any in use since Jules backflipped his 90! EDIT : MODS Sorry, this wasn't aimed at the for sale, it was supposed to go into International - please move!
  5. This link adds some more detail - https://www.radiomuseum.co.uk/hdrs.html
  6. NCRS = National Command Radio System. Also known as HDRS - Home Defence Radio System. Developed in the 80s, it was a text based radio comms network to keep the country regional government going if the bomb dropped. It had 250W Skanti HF transceivers, adaptive HF radio modems, crypto, and no room to swing the proverbial cat with two squaddies and all the kit inside. Leave it parked in the rain with the brakes on and you'll need to drag it violently round the carpark with a 101 until they release Not much fun to tow behind a 2.5 NA 90. Allegedly once gave rise to the radio message "I've turned the national command rover over, over"
  7. This one's been sitting in my files forever. Dyno plot of a 2.25 petrol in a series. Looking at the numbers I assume this is uncorrected figures at the wheels. I recall the guy who took the pull saying it was the lowest power figure he'd ever seen on the dyno, but not the lowest torque
  8. 300Tdi (=HS 2.5), plus the 2.8 Powerstroke derivative in Wastegate and VNT versions, just to add to Fridges list...
  9. TSD

    Hot fuse

    Vaseline flows away from the points of contact, and fills the interstices in the metal surface. It forms an airtight, watertight seal around the point of connection, preventing or greatly inhibiting corrosion. It's fine or your battery connections in the same way unless you get carried away and put pints of the stuff on. Once you have calculate the current as you explained, you should then consider the initial switch on current draw versus time, the fuse manufacturers specifications for I2t, and in this case the manufacturers recommendation that for an ATO fuse, at 25degC, fuses should be operated at no more than 75% of rated current for continuous operation. The second link is quite useful if you really want to understand. ATO Fuse datasheet Littelfuse Application Guide
  10. TSD

    Hot fuse

    You can generally tell if the fuses are decent quality, just by the look and feel. If they look like they came out of a christmas cracker, they probably did. There will be others, but a couple of options easily found :- Multicomp are decent quality, and they have a built in LED to light up when blown. https://uk.farnell.com/c/circuit-protection/fuses-fuse-accessories?ost=fuse+ato&searchref=searchlookahead&product-range=ato-series Littelfuse probably as good as it gets. https://www.mouser.co.uk/Littelfuse/Automotive-Fuses/ATO-Series/_/N-1z0zlhtZba8b5Z1yzxjo9 As always, a smear of vaseline on the fuse legs will work wonders to keep moisture out of the contact area for years.
  11. TSD

    Hot fuse

    That's pretty normal behaviour for a fuse which is too low rated, not too high. When I measured a standard Defender fan motor in the snail housing it was running around 13A at full chat. That's more than enough to make a 15A fuse run hot. I don't know if thats a typical current or not, but if it is, the fuse should be at least 20A rated. Baseline recommendation from the manufacturer is to run fuses at no more than 70% of rated current for continuous operation at 25C. The fuses also dissipate heat into the holder and wiring, so even if the contacts are good, cheap fuseholders and small wiring often cause fuses to run hotter than necessary.
  12. It will be just fine. Mine has lived behind a 2.8 Powerstroke for many years and miles without any signs of strain. More than can be said for anything else in the drivetrain
  13. As Escape says, it's not an unusual failure, but I think it's seen more often now that AGM batteries are more common (as your UPS batteries will be). I think it's not that the AGM batteries are less reliable, but rather they work so well that the gradual degradation isn't noticed until the battery completely fails to deliver on it's job. A while back the Ibex failed to start on first crank one evening. Cranked as normal, but didn't catch on the first few compressions as it usually does. On the second turn of the key it failed to turn over at all. After a bit of investigation I built a proper automated battery test rig, and was surprised to find the Optima battery could only deliver 14Ah, against the spec of 55Ah. Not surprising, it was a few years old, but I had no idea the battery was degraded at all - in normal use the tdi cranked over perfectly well and started in all weathers right up to the day it couldn't. Being an AGM battery with very low internal resistance, it could still easily deliver the required cranking power for a short burst, it just couldn't sustain the effort. My impression is that wet plate batteries often failed with rising internal resistance as one of the symptoms, so slow cranking and marginal starting were more obvious symptoms as the battery aged. I tried a few of the recovery regimes that are out there, desulphation etc. as a lot of smart chargers implement. Over the course of a few weeks, I got the battery back to about 34Ah, then I threw it away. A new replacement Optima was close, but didn't quite meet it's advertised spec. Interestingly the 7 year old orignal battery in my D3 when I bought it was still delivering well over 90% of it's advertised capacity. My UPS runs a load test cycle regularly, and flags up if the batteries are failing to deliver a useable runtime. It also seems to flag the batteries as failed automatically after a couple of years, regardless of condition. I change them when their time is up and I reckon the failure rate in batteries I've taken out is around 50%, though I only remember once having to change them because the UPS failed the load test run.
  14. I missed the video too. At least when it's leaking at that rate, if it's important it'll become obvious what it is pretty soon!
  15. Put down a bowl and collect a clean sample of whatever it is? It'll make it a lot easier to identify if you can't tell where it's falling out of.
  16. Used to be quite common for ex-military stuff. AFAIR it just meant the original build date hadn't been established, and the new owner just wanted to put it on the road with least hassle.
  17. In a previous discussion on here it was said that probably all 300tdi cranks are forged. I don't know if thats true, but it's perfectly possible of course. One day I'll get bored enough to open my spares engine and have a look.
  18. 300Tdi isn't exactly known for snapping cranks though, so to have similar failures on two engines in rapid succession would be exceptionally bad luck... I'm with Ed, I'd be looking (or at least checking) for some common cause. What (if any) ancillary parts did you carry over from the old engine when you replaced it? Crank nose pulley? Injection pump? Injectors? Flywheel? They would be my first suspects. What was the gearbox input shaft like? Is it possible it's bent, or has a failed bearing? With the engine out, does the rest of the drivetrain turn smoothly? None of this is likely, but neither is snapping two cranks in 1500 miles!
  19. An aftermarket Webasto coolant heater has a pump to circulate coolant and a trigger output to run the heater fan to warm the interior. The factory fit versions are much the same device, but some don't have the coolant pump, as they are intended to run with the engine on. I wouldn't say it gets oodles of hot air into the cabin, but it's enough to defrost the windows and take the edge off the inside on my Ibex. Also full engine heat comes on stream as soon as you start driving. It won't get you any warmer than the standard setup, but it'll get you there much quicker.
  20. Long thread here on reprogramming, but in short you need td5 speedo and sender unit, connectors for each, and cabling. Connect it all up and get it working as-is. Note how far out it is on the road. If you want to do it yourself, you can reprogram the speedo using a raspberry pi computer. You need to open the speedo and attach a few wires, but that's as difficult as it gets. If you're not up for that, I'm sure someone here will help out.
  21. Puma has the Blue 20T gear as well, though as it has an electronic speedo, the only reason it's the same is because there's no reason to change it. There are (I think) 5 gears available, but 20T is the limit. 11% fast sounds about normal to me. Remember they all read fast as it's illegal for it to under-read, and there is some variation from unit to unit. Easiest (but not cheap) option is to change to a Td5 speedo and reprogram it to read closer to the correct value.
  22. TSD

    Bonnet Catch

    I've got a new bearmach one in the workshop ready for fitting in the 2bex build. The base is made of 1.6mm steel, the hook pressed from 1.2mm steel and the whole thing looks like it's been spray galv'ed. I wouldn't call it high quality, but I don't get the impression it's going to fail the first time I slam the bonnet either.
  23. If it had a 200 Discovery dashboard, I'd consider it a plus (as long as not made in blue!). It was simple, practical and pretty tough - the Defender should have got a similar design. A big single chunky of flexible plastic would have got rid of a lot of the rattles and squeeks and the vast number of fiddly little brackets and different scews of the standard dash of the time. (The photos of Tom Sheppards Defender in the VDEG book makes me suspect that LR did consider it.) I had a hire car with a steering wheel like that, and I nearly broke a finger when reversing it
  24. The writer says "Weak product quality has long been a problem with JLR, dating to the time when the UK luxury automaker was still in the hands of Ford." Clearly not old enough to remember the cars built in the days of BL then ...
  25. Confuse yourself silly with this thread? Looks like the same part AAU1700 on Series3, so 3/8 UNF sounds plausible, you might even be able to put a bleed nipple in there? (Never looked at one myself, so could be wildly off here!)
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