TSD

I'm aware of the YBE100540 sensor, and that electrically it's different to the more common YBE100530. I'm curious to know what gear fits the end of it, since the 'speedo gear' question pops up every now and again.

Every day a schoolday! Never seen one of those, any idea for a part number?

If I remember correctly, when you go to larger tyres than the standard 32", you move off the end of the range of available gears. So of the available gears, Blue is the nearest to correct. Of course, if all else fails, you can just fit whatever gear comes to hand, and reprogram the speedo to read correctly. Any chance a bit of the old speedo cable is stuck in the drive gear? I can't think why else it wouldn't fit, though I have found it a bit fiddly occasionally. As far as I've seen the speedo drive gears all have the same centre square.

I don't generally share my opinion of the Rover V8 here, as it runs the risk of being labelled as heresy on this forum.

Maybe it's just because I'm old and grumpy, but to me it seems a shame to go to all the effort of importing a nice 110 and then destroy a lot of its character by stuffing in a big V8 and a slushbox. Might as well go the whole hog and reproduce that rebodied Jeep monstrosity in the 'Pass the Bucket' thread Obviously depending on legalities, I'd still be thinking hard about a tdi, (or of course a 2.8TGV from the South American spec Ford Ranger). If lack of power really is the problem, for $10k it might be easiest and cheapest to keep all that power in another vehicle parked next to the 110 and make the choice each morning ...

Do you think the same problem might exist with the odd-fire V6 you suggested? Not sure if they all were but I'm sure the early ones I looed at back in the days of my v6 hybrid were.

Sounds perfect - and probably what mine runs on too, though I'm not certain - it's a repurposed old programmer I built for a customer, and I glued the box shut so I didn't get tempted to rob the SD card for something else I just looked at the code and realised it needed a freshen up for a modern RPi, so then I had to find a speedo to check it still works... but it all looks to be working now. Sent you a PM, check your inbox.

Either will do. I'd use the older pi, simply because it matters less if it all goes horribly wrong Get it set up with a keyboard and monitor, and Raspbian / RaspberryPi OS. The exact version doesn't much matter, either with a gui or without. Meanwhile I will find a big shovel and dig out the programming code...

The clip works fine, it's what I use. But if you can solder fine wires, and only have one speedo to adjust, it's probably not worth a fiver. I didn't use the eeprom programmer, so I can't comment on that. It's a slight oddball device, so it's possible some programmers wont support it. I used a raspberry pi instead, because it was in the drawer. Not as cheap if you don't have one to hand, but at least it's still useful for something else later. ten quid for a pi zero, plus you need an sd card and maybe a serial cable, so maybe twenty quid all up?

That is on my D3

One pinhole, but obviously the rest of the pipe is as-new. No chance at all of it turning into a colander the next time you're on the motorway on a rainy night Repairs as above, but only until the replacement pipe arrives, for my money. (says the bloke who is 60k overdue for a cambelt because he can't be bothered!)

If my memory hasn't completely failed... Some V6 were Honda, some were Rover engined (KV6 like Freelander I think). Early 4 pot were Rover, don't know about later ones. I once got asked to help a mate who was replacing a failed V6 in one, and had 'a few issues'. Turned out he was trying to stuff a Rover lump into the hole left by a Honda. Not ashamed to say I ran away without picking up a spanner

Megasquirt has (or did in early versions anyway) reasonable reverse polarity protection. If properly fused and wired, it would (or should anyway) just take out the fuse without further damage. I think the ISO specs covering auto electronics include 60 seconds of reverse polarity without damage as well as brief pulses of much higher voltages, e.g. load dump to -100V caused by removing the power supply to an inductive load, like a motor. Electronics generally has to be designed with 'finger trouble' in mind, because given the chance, most semiconductors will happily sacrifice themselves to protect the fuses

I have a cheapo compression tester, other than colour of box it looks the same as the cheaper ebay units. It included an adapter that fits the tdi glowplug and seals nicely with a little oil on the threads. I've used it a few times, mostly to pronounce death on miketomcats array of broken 200tdi Not a high quality instrument, but it works well enough - I wouldn't necessarily whip the head off if it told me I had 20psi difference across the cylinders, but it's pretty good at checking for the continued presence of pistons and valves...

I reckon a TGV install is less hassle than a 300tdi - at least in the M&D version, not sure about the other conversions out there. The oil filter is already remoted, so much easier to adapt the engine mounts, and (handly for the Ibex), no oil cooler in the rad to foul on the stering box. Shhh, don't tell @miketomcat! If there's a lowish cost TGV in decent condition, I want it for 2Bex!

From memory is *was* a bit of a fraught drive, and left me stuck for a while when I mistimed the traffic lights, so you probably made the right choice My M&D clutch has been problem free over the last 15+ years and Eek! miles, but I noticed last year it has finally stopped rattling in neutral, so in the way of these things, either it or the gearbox is probably going to demand some attention soon!

That's what happened to my 130HD clutch at 7S Mike, just before we went to Norway. Actually, I drove home from that 7S, so why did you need the margic carpet to get home?

I didn't mean to suggest you were - I just needed an excuse to post the photo of the car as it currently looks!

Just in case anyone's thinking Mike should stop the tale of woe and just get on with it... I've just been up and photographed the black one as it looks today... Nope, not joking! I've offered Mike a loaner 200tdi engine or indeed the complete motable 90 it lives in, but we agreed that both options probably expand the job in time and eat too much of the budget. (unless he wants to MoT the 90 and take the Ibex off the road for a year, which I'm sure he wouldn't want to do)

Fairly sure there are several lurking in the shed, I will look one out for you this week.

In Prusaslicer, you can also set flags to pause printing at particular levels. I've used that a few times to embed nuts or weights completely inside a print. Just make sure there's a nut shaped void in the print, and pause it at the very top. I printed a desk stand for a radio controller, and on a whim I embedded three tungsten weights that had been rattling round the desk for ages. It made a lovely stand that didn't fall over or slide around on the end of the cable. I forgot all about it until months later I spent ages hunting for those weights when I remembered what they were *really* for

I think this would look more at home in Basingrad... And all joking aside, if I could fit in it, I would absolutely drive that on any day it would start.

Knock up a wooden mould, and get someone to fibreglass it for you?

I use Amphenol C16 as a charger connector. Electrically its way OTT, but they are robust and very waterproof. I use a 4-pole one to connect 2 chargers, so both starter and aux batteries get charged. I have a bulkhead mount version on the Ibex, and engine bay cable on the Disco. When not in use, there are dust caps for both sexes. When not in use, the wander lead is still powered, and is often found in a puddle on the drive. In ten years or more, the only thing that has degraded is the plastic tethers on the dust caps. Not the cheapest, but worth the money. There are cheap copies out there in the usual places, I've never tried then and I wouldn't bother.