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TSD

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Everything posted by TSD

  1. It sounds like your nanocom reads absolute pressure (so 1bar, 100kPa with no boost or engine not running), where most diesel boost gauges read pressure over ambient, so will read 0 with no boost. Boost gauges for petrol engines read manifold vacuum as well, which is useless on a diesel. I used one though, because even VDO ones were much cheaper than the diesel scaled ones. Mine reads 25psi at the top of the scale, and the TGV has smacked the end stop on overboost so many times that the needle now reads a few psi of vacuum permanently when the engine is off! It doesn't matter of course, I'm not looking for an exact reading, just a useful way to spot problems or a change in behaviour. Like Tanuki, I had a 'stuck mechanism' issue, but mine was stuck at max boost for a couple of miles, until it warmed up and I jumped on and off the throttle a few times. I'm no expert on td5, but I thought the boost level was ecu controlled, so the power can be cut without dropping fuelling?
  2. Sent more info by PM, but an additional timing pin hole was drilled in the flywheel housing for early M&D installations, at least on manual gearbox versions. I presume because the dowel position in the crank is different on the Ford spec engines. (Just below crank centreline, on the opposite side to the starter motor)
  3. Usually, with a D3, even if the fault is a flat tyre, someone will tell you the brake pedal switch is the cause of the problem. But in this case it might actually be true... the engine management may not allow enough diesel to generate much more than tickover power if it thinks you might be braking. Also be aware if you've had the sunroof drains breaking due to rot, rather than just being blocked, on the passenger side the tube often breaks in just the right place to empty the rainwater into the central junction box, where a world of pain awaits if you don't spot it in time.
  4. TSD

    Throttle bodies

    Out of curiosity, injectors upstream or downstream of the throttle plate? I presume upstream but I can't tell from a brief look at the website. I did TPI on a 3.1L Essex a *very* long time ago. It works well, the engine made probably a little more power, but the driveability was transformed compared to running on carbs. With EDIS6 it was even better again. I used the Chevy TBI as at the time it was the only way to find parts large enough to feed a hungry V6 from only 2 injectors. (Running on carbs it was basically undriveable off-road, as some members of this forum will remember!) PSA used the Bosch TBI on midrange 1.4 and 1.6 engines for a few years. These would have been engines making making a little less than 100hp, and with smaller capacity but higher revs than a typical series, I always thought that could be a very simple setup. Possibly only need mods to the intake manifold to mount the TBI where the carb was. They are also wide and squat, designed to be used downdraught. The injectors were an oddity though in the ones I've seen, much more like the chevy shape and style (possibly even the same), rather than the typical mpi injector most people are used to.
  5. TSD

    Throttle bodies

    Individual injection throttle bodies seems like would make it drive like a PoS due to loss of fine control at tip-in (where the throttle is just opening). Would be a shame to destroy the engines best characteristic for no reason. There was a guy in N. Hampshire (*) who made injector mount 'spacers' to fit between the standard manifold and head on his 2.25. Seemed to work pretty well, and it meant that playing with injector-valve positioning was easy, just machine new mounts and swap them in. Could even use the standard carb as a throttle body to get things going. I always liked the Bosch dual-plate throttle that VW used around the era of 16V GTIs. Like a staged carb, but one very small plate opening first and a second, larger than usual plate for wide throttle openings. Better control at tip-in, and less restriction at WOT than was sensibly possible with carbs. (*) - this was more than 10 years ago, before I went to the dark and oily side and stopped messing with efi.
  6. If you haven't already, have a read of this thread. I tried a 20W PTC heater inserted in the windscreen vent tube. It did actually work over a tiny area, but you need a lot of airflow to demist a decent amount of screen, 170W hairdryer may not be enough for a decent effect. Typical automotive PTC heaters user for quick demist are over 1000W. It will certainly work to some extent, the question is only if it works well enough to make it worth the time and effort. I'm building another car from the ground up, and I'm not putting a PTC in the (completely custom) heater box.
  7. What's the penalty for this style crime then?
  8. Pretty sure I didn't remove the driveshaft, though it isn't that hard anyway. You'll need a pickle fork type balljoint splitter, and an angle grinder to adjust it to size. One of mine was too large to get in there, and the other burst as the joint is wider than the typical LR one.
  9. Had a rummage this morning and it looks like I chucked the old arms Sorry to raise false hope. It was probably 4-5 years back that I changed them. I can't remember which bushes were in the arms I bought, but probably Lemforder. Don't think I would have bought genuine, and I almost certainly would have chosen Lemforder over Meyle. The bushes had already been changed once by LR dealer under warranty at under 60k, the current ones have done over 60k with no sign of them knocking yet (unlike the ARB bushes at the moment!) Try giving AF a ring and asking them what mandrels they use - as I remember at one time they were pressing a lot of bushes (though into new bare arms, so not needing to remove first) with a largish floorstanding press. Bigger than my puny 10T, but not huge.
  10. The arms for the Armoured D3 are the same as the RRSport arms IIRC. I was lazy and bought a set of arms from Advanced Factors. Their press is (or was) in the hallway next to the coffee machine, if Steve isn't looking you might be able to press the bushes there and then @reb78 I might still have the old arms in the shed - if you're passing the office sometime and want them, I could have a look. Also, make sure you know where you're going for an alignment job before you get started... Turned out the D3 wouldn't fit under the roof of my local place, and I ended up driving to the other side of Salisbury on a very icy day, with the full complement of warning lights and Bong!s, and the TC going nuts on every roundabout
  11. You might get some interest from the Vintage & Military Amateur Radio Society - I've had some great help from them with other radio projects. They might be able to dig up some documentation for you. Alternatively the emergency comms group RAYNET might be interested in it as a general comms trailer project. But I suspect most of the restoration projects of this type, like Vampire 101s, comes from people who had good memories of working on or with them at some point in their former lives. These units werent't widely deployed, and seemingly weren't particularly well liked. To be honest, I had a great time messing about with them as a young engineer for a few sunny months, and even I wouldn't buy one (It was my introduction to Land Rovers too, maybe that's why I remember it fondly!) The Skanti HF radios have come up on ebay a few times over the years (as have the trailers). The HF Modems probably went into the crusher with the crypto. The data terminals probably ended up in a skip, though similar ones are sometimes on ebay at silly prices - I don't recall precisely which types were fitted. The Racal(?) antenna masts probably sold to radio amateurs, but I don't think they were specials for that job.
  12. The GKN hubs replace the axle drive flange, and internally they have a preloaded clutch pack that slips if the torque exceeds a preset value. They were used to protect the CV joints from torque spikes when spinning up big tyres. I don't think they were ever very plentiful, though a few people on this forum used them. I wasn't particularly trying to sell them (despite posting in the wrong board section - too many windows open) I was wondering if anyone still used them or has more info, hopefully someone has some setup instructions for instance?
  13. ISTR that Fridgefreezer plumbed his 109 entirely in SS flexi without any problems at all. My biggest objection would be that SS flexi is heavy and floppy, so it needs a lot of fixing down. It can quickly rub through just about anything it comes into contact with if there's any relative motion. Years ago I had a quick 'bodge' repair done on a Citroen with the high pressure hydraulic suspension using a short SS flexi. It contained the pressure ok, but caused a failure in another pipe that no-one noticed was touching at one point. I've got the same flaring tool as MR-HIPPO. It made it easy to replace all the rear brake pipes on my D3 in situ - which is the only way for a car with that many hoses pipes and wires running around
  14. Rummaging in the back of the shed at the weekend I found a pair of these that I bought s/hand but barely used many years ago. The original owner put them on an overland 130 but found they slipped too much and took them off again. Very possibly they were never adjusted out of the box. I know they are rare, but does anyone still use them? I haven't seen any in use since Jules backflipped his 90! EDIT : MODS Sorry, this wasn't aimed at the for sale, it was supposed to go into International - please move!
  15. This link adds some more detail - https://www.radiomuseum.co.uk/hdrs.html
  16. NCRS = National Command Radio System. Also known as HDRS - Home Defence Radio System. Developed in the 80s, it was a text based radio comms network to keep the country regional government going if the bomb dropped. It had 250W Skanti HF transceivers, adaptive HF radio modems, crypto, and no room to swing the proverbial cat with two squaddies and all the kit inside. Leave it parked in the rain with the brakes on and you'll need to drag it violently round the carpark with a 101 until they release Not much fun to tow behind a 2.5 NA 90. Allegedly once gave rise to the radio message "I've turned the national command rover over, over"
  17. This one's been sitting in my files forever. Dyno plot of a 2.25 petrol in a series. Looking at the numbers I assume this is uncorrected figures at the wheels. I recall the guy who took the pull saying it was the lowest power figure he'd ever seen on the dyno, but not the lowest torque
  18. 300Tdi (=HS 2.5), plus the 2.8 Powerstroke derivative in Wastegate and VNT versions, just to add to Fridges list...
  19. TSD

    Hot fuse

    Vaseline flows away from the points of contact, and fills the interstices in the metal surface. It forms an airtight, watertight seal around the point of connection, preventing or greatly inhibiting corrosion. It's fine or your battery connections in the same way unless you get carried away and put pints of the stuff on. Once you have calculate the current as you explained, you should then consider the initial switch on current draw versus time, the fuse manufacturers specifications for I2t, and in this case the manufacturers recommendation that for an ATO fuse, at 25degC, fuses should be operated at no more than 75% of rated current for continuous operation. The second link is quite useful if you really want to understand. ATO Fuse datasheet Littelfuse Application Guide
  20. TSD

    Hot fuse

    You can generally tell if the fuses are decent quality, just by the look and feel. If they look like they came out of a christmas cracker, they probably did. There will be others, but a couple of options easily found :- Multicomp are decent quality, and they have a built in LED to light up when blown. https://uk.farnell.com/c/circuit-protection/fuses-fuse-accessories?ost=fuse+ato&searchref=searchlookahead&product-range=ato-series Littelfuse probably as good as it gets. https://www.mouser.co.uk/Littelfuse/Automotive-Fuses/ATO-Series/_/N-1z0zlhtZba8b5Z1yzxjo9 As always, a smear of vaseline on the fuse legs will work wonders to keep moisture out of the contact area for years.
  21. TSD

    Hot fuse

    That's pretty normal behaviour for a fuse which is too low rated, not too high. When I measured a standard Defender fan motor in the snail housing it was running around 13A at full chat. That's more than enough to make a 15A fuse run hot. I don't know if thats a typical current or not, but if it is, the fuse should be at least 20A rated. Baseline recommendation from the manufacturer is to run fuses at no more than 70% of rated current for continuous operation at 25C. The fuses also dissipate heat into the holder and wiring, so even if the contacts are good, cheap fuseholders and small wiring often cause fuses to run hotter than necessary.
  22. It will be just fine. Mine has lived behind a 2.8 Powerstroke for many years and miles without any signs of strain. More than can be said for anything else in the drivetrain
  23. As Escape says, it's not an unusual failure, but I think it's seen more often now that AGM batteries are more common (as your UPS batteries will be). I think it's not that the AGM batteries are less reliable, but rather they work so well that the gradual degradation isn't noticed until the battery completely fails to deliver on it's job. A while back the Ibex failed to start on first crank one evening. Cranked as normal, but didn't catch on the first few compressions as it usually does. On the second turn of the key it failed to turn over at all. After a bit of investigation I built a proper automated battery test rig, and was surprised to find the Optima battery could only deliver 14Ah, against the spec of 55Ah. Not surprising, it was a few years old, but I had no idea the battery was degraded at all - in normal use the tdi cranked over perfectly well and started in all weathers right up to the day it couldn't. Being an AGM battery with very low internal resistance, it could still easily deliver the required cranking power for a short burst, it just couldn't sustain the effort. My impression is that wet plate batteries often failed with rising internal resistance as one of the symptoms, so slow cranking and marginal starting were more obvious symptoms as the battery aged. I tried a few of the recovery regimes that are out there, desulphation etc. as a lot of smart chargers implement. Over the course of a few weeks, I got the battery back to about 34Ah, then I threw it away. A new replacement Optima was close, but didn't quite meet it's advertised spec. Interestingly the 7 year old orignal battery in my D3 when I bought it was still delivering well over 90% of it's advertised capacity. My UPS runs a load test cycle regularly, and flags up if the batteries are failing to deliver a useable runtime. It also seems to flag the batteries as failed automatically after a couple of years, regardless of condition. I change them when their time is up and I reckon the failure rate in batteries I've taken out is around 50%, though I only remember once having to change them because the UPS failed the load test run.
  24. I missed the video too. At least when it's leaking at that rate, if it's important it'll become obvious what it is pretty soon!
  25. Put down a bowl and collect a clean sample of whatever it is? It'll make it a lot easier to identify if you can't tell where it's falling out of.
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