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TSD

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Everything posted by TSD

  1. Not sure it qualifies as clever, but pick one and connect it temporarily to the FIP solenoid? With ignition on you'll either operate the solenoid or put the oil pressure lamp on. No risk of damage that way that I can see.
  2. The other thing that can cause this is the bushes parting on the rear upper wishbones. I was shocked how knackered mine were, and I noticed no other symptoms. In fact I think the TC cutting in masked the real problem - the TC notices the movement in the back end just before the driver does and takes control, leaving the driver unable to tell what happened first.
  3. That's lucky, I'd hate to think I'd played any part in someone paying that much money for a few bits of simple angle I missed the seat type, because when you asked the question back in 2020, I was researching putting the 40/60 in my Ibex. I will go back to sleep ...
  4. I knew I remembered something about this from a while back... It's like deja vu all over agian... https://farcorners.co.uk/products/far-defender-110130-second-row-seat-risers
  5. Sorry for the radio silence, been away for a few days... I haven't read the full thread yet, but first thought is that I think you may have the pot the wrong way around. One end to ground, the other end to the coil, and the wiper (middle pin) to the tacho. Also watch out for 'suppressor' caps that have been added to the ignition wiring - you can just disconnect them briefly for testing if you find them. On a clockwork ignition, I'd be wondering if the dwell angle was right, but I assume it's not adjustable on the electronic version of the dizzy? Also, in my experience coils like the FlameThrower cause more issues than they cure, especially on an engine like the RV8 with its absurd firing order. Even with Magnecors, HT varnish and careful lead positioning, they can generate repeated misfires that are hard to find. @FridgeFreezer had one (in pre MS days) that arced out from the coil tower, down the insulator boot, through the dielectric grease or whatever varnish we'd used, and grounded on the mounting bracket, and it was almost impossible to stop. At dusk, his engine bay was like blackpool seafront on fireworks night.
  6. Alternatively, wait and see if the postman brings a small surprise package in the next few days
  7. I don't remember any particular wear on the gears of mine. It was never really A1, from new it didn't shift and and out smoothly unless dipping the clutch, but in the end it would slip when disengaged. It always got regular oil changes, but it did have a hard life, between the 2.8TGV and 33" tyres, and covering a lot of fast country roads about 90 miles a day. The filter screen and the piston housings were gummed with alu dust suspended in the oil, and the wear was obvious in the housing. I cleaned everything up and replaced all the o-rings, but I never got it to the point I was happy with it, so I sold it on here as junk (reb78 has the back half of it, I think, and bill van snorkle got the front gear assembly in Oz) I tried a 1.2 transfer box for a while, but even though the 2.8 could pull it easily, it put all the gear changes in the wrong place and I never liked it, so I bit the bullet and fitted a Roamerdrive. I have a standard(ish) 200tdi 90, which always felt to me like the gears were perfectly chosen and matched to the engine (though a 6th gear would be nice). Somehow I never managed to get the TGV / 33" combo in the Ibex to feel as 'right'.
  8. If you've not found them already, there's a series of articles here about the Triumph Type J overdrive, which is the same core design. I noted it originally because it listed all the O-ring sizes, but it's a good coverage on stripping and reassembly too. It's a shame you didn't get the gearknob. It's the only bit of the whole setup that I liked
  9. According to this document Bosch VE pumps can be either M12 or M14x1.5. On this page, it doesn't seem to mention it, but it is picked up by the search engine. If you read the 'page source' it titles a page section 'M14x1.5' (and M12 on some other driveshaft nuts they sell) , so I reckon that's a good bet.
  10. Again, not quite what you asked for, but I used to use Shure in-ear headphones that used use roll-up foam cores like normal earplugs, really good sound isolation and they don't fall out. I've never looked for wireless ones though. Again music quality , price
  11. To avoid faff, buy a Toyota that will do most things better and be so boring no-one will steal it anyway. The only reason I do any of this stuff is because I find it interesting...
  12. It's not always straightforward to boot phones without their matching batteries, even if you provide the power the battery management/protection circuits can get in the way. But I'd much prefer a supercap hidden away and forgotten than a LiPo. One of my trackers from years ago (I've built many) has a small supercap which provides just enough energy for transmitting a single data burst, so most of the time it runs from a very small, very efficient power supply that can only supply enough current to operate the receiver, and charge the supercap.
  13. While you are taking note of the very small risk of the power supply bursting into flames, don't ignore the potentially much larger risk of a permanently powered lithium ion battery hidden away and forgotten. In the past couple of years I've found three (*) hidden away in various parts of my office, all worryingly swollen. And they were all in a benign environment, and not being charged. I didn't notice the battery swelling in the mapping tablet in the Ibex until it was pressing on the screen so hard it changed the colour in the middle of the screen. Not super dangerous, but certainly an increased risk, and I'd be far more worried about that than the risk from random ebay electronics that didn't die within the first few hours of use. I'm not saying don't do it, just another thing to consider. (*) - #1 was in old camera, and had and had swelled enough to burst the outer casing. #2 was on the circuit board of a former colleagues abandoned project. #3 was the worst - contained in a parcel of 'treasure' from a customer having a clearout. What appeared to be a box full of large LiIon battery chargers turned out to include 1 LiIon battery, about the size of a motorcycle battery, and somewhat(!) swollen.
  14. Don't know if they are still easily or cheaply available, but the bottle jack supplied with Merc Sprinters has a usefully long multi-section ram, but looks like the standard LR jack at a glance. I've used one to jack Unimog portals before - though I'm not sure what size tyres it was wearing. At one time there were lots on ebay because fleet operators removed them from the vans. A lot of D3 owners bought them because the LR supplied scissor jack is lethal. ISTR @FridgeFreezer has one for his 109?
  15. Glancing over the parts catalogue, for the 2.8 I reckon about 50% of the parts still have LR part numbers. I think that's not bad for an engine that's been redesigned with different crank, cam, pistons, rods, turbo, and which was never fitted in a LR engine bay. (It's actually not much higher for the HS2.5, and that *is* a 300tdi, except for not generally living in a LR engine bay.) Many of the other parts are identical, but locally sourced, or are redesigned to address some issue, but LR parts will just fit instead. On the other hand, no, they are troublesome rubbish and you should stay well away from them. In fact if you know where any real original 2.8TGVs are sat around in the way, let me know, I'll be round in the morning with the trailer to clear the problem away for you
  16. https://carbuzz.com/news/ford-wants-bronco-owners-to-stand-while-driving-off-road
  17. GPS driven speedo isn't road legal in the UK (or wasn't, last time I looked). Not that you can't have one of course, just that it doesn't qualify as a speedo. More importantly, that speedo exceeds the total 'nasty plastic chrome' allowance for my entire fleet.
  18. Just searching for "Land Rover 79123" turned up loads of links, several with the correct description. e.g. https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/land-rover-series-and-defender-single-1-4-plastic-pipe-clip-various-applications-pack-x5-79123.html
  19. Most of the names I've heard used will be filtered by the forum auto-censor, but it looks like LR calls it "79123 Clip - Pipe, single"
  20. If it was leaking from the seat washer, I'd expect it to be black and sooty from all the combustion gases. (Unless it's really bad, but then you'd have a massive misfire). Often you can hear it, and feel it if you hover your hand over the injector when idling. Any time I've had the fuel pipe weeping, it left a clear bead of diesel in the groove between the top nut and the pipe, so quite easy to spot if you dry everything off first. I'd be looking for a leak from the spill rail union as the most likely suspect. The other place I imagine it *could* leak, though I've never seen it happen, is if the injector body has unscrewed from the nozzle and not done back up tight? I've seen injector bodies unscrew if they put up a fight when being removed - I think I've got one doing that in my spare engine at the moment, but I haven't got round to checking if 6 months bathed in ATF has helped at all
  21. Slightly more affordable, I notice there's another new Lego Defender ... https://www.lego.com/en-gb/product/land-rover-classic-defender-40650 Better colour too
  22. Check one of the terminals hasn't backed out of the connector when you plugged in the new relay. You said you were changing the relay because the terminals were corroded. Sounds like you didn't clean the wiring side completely, or the terminals have loosened due to heat.
  23. I have the DTI etc., but since I can't drive it on the road yet,I'm not inclined to tune it until then, so I know what state everything else is in
  24. I have to give top marks to Advanced Factors once again Ordered a wheel bearing online for the D3 at 9.20AM, hoping it would be here for the weekend. Delivered at 1pm I'm only about 10 miles from them, so probably well within their van routes, but well worth a thumbs up.
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