TSD

Not certain, but I think only 19" D3 stuff. I suspect the smaller wheels won't clear the brakes?

No idea if they stayed the same over all the years of production, but in my case it was an unusual size, but still a standard part. Any decent bearing factor will be able to source one. I think mine was probably from bearingboys online.

You'll get no help throwing around language like that OK, now we know which diagram to look at, fuse #28 seems to be the renumbered version of the fuse #9 I mentioned above. It goes to connector C0277, which is tucked in somewhere around that fusebox bracket. It does seem it shouldn't be connected to anything from there, but it's obviously the next place to look. Follow the link for the relevant page in the excellent connector library, which I suspect LR published because they felt guilty about their appalling circuit diagrams

Not sure about Fuse #28, I didn't think a Td5 had that many fuses.... Fuse #3 (of the 'engine compartment' fusebox) is 30A, and has a brown/purple wire. It feeds the rear screen heater and the switch on the dash. If it has aircon, Fuse #9 (of the 'passenger compartment' fusebox) is 30A and has a brown/purple wire, which becomes plain brown at a joint somewhere and feeds the front blower motor. Wiring diagrams etc. are available here

That's the one. I had the strong impression that a lot of things were replaced because it was quicker/easier, and at the cost of a lot of originality. I'm hardly a rivet counter, and have no interest in Jeeps, but it did feel like it had been sacrificed to making a tv programme.

There was one episode where they rebuilt an old Jeep, and replaced so much of it I thought the 'jeopardy' element was whether the poor owner was well enough to stand up and deck the pair of them. (Or maybe I was just offended on his behalf.) By and large a decent program though, IMO. In a slightly similar vein, I find 'Shed and Buried' to be pleasant viewing, especially as the profits they seem to make would rarely even cover the diesel bill.

On my late 300tdi (so '98), the lower bearing was the lower bearing was 22.5mm id, 35.7mm od, 9.5mm wide, and marked INA F-49273.2 I don't know if the bearing is the same in the various different columns (at least 3 different part numbers). There was a change around 2008, but I would guess there's a decent chance the bearing is the same size.

Just found the original thread where this was discussed. Are you still wanting to do the same thing - flash two different LEDs with the 'Alarm simulator' board - or something different? This reminded me I was going to use it for the low coolant alarm on 2Bex, but I have a feeling I forgot and wired it to a spare position on the warning light panel instead!

I have a vague recollection of discussing this, but I can't remember why it was a problem. It's either apply 12v to the led terminal, or ground the led terminal. I don't recall which, but I'm certain nothing clever was required.

A bit of a subjective opinion, but having owned both the VDO Vision and the Td5 speedo, the Td5 speedo is a better choice. The LCD display in the Td5 unit is larger, better lit and much easier to read. (While the two units look similar, they use completely different electronics). The connection to the LCD in the Vision unit is flimsy, and quite likely to fail due to vibration and presence of moisture. I'm not certain (as I don't have one in bits right now) but I think that the Td5 display mount is more robust. It's simple to wire in the Vision unit in place of the Td5 one, but you lose the alarm LED and the low fuel warning light function if you are using them currently. As discussed, changing the mileage on the Td5 speedo is pretty easy. If you already have a working Td5 speedo, even everything needed to do the job yourself, including a soldering iron, would still be cheaper than buying a new VDO Vision unit

I've only used them a few times personally but Banda Engineering in Pompey were always good to deal with. Never heard a bad word about them, even from the tight boaty crowd who have 50k toys and whinge about the price of everything.

It wasn't diesel bug in my case, just corrosion caused by water suspended in the fuel dropping out when left standing for a long time. The FIP was clogged solid and had to be rebuilt. There was no fuel system for there to be diesel bug living in, the last time I ran it was from a jerrycan on the wing. That was only 3 years ago, parked in a dry warmish workshop. Sadly, not the first time its happened to me.

It's all about getting the total reliability up... If one starts 80% of the time, then one of two should start around 96% of the time (*) I own four LR derived vehicles... draw your own conclusions (*) Maybe... I hated probability in maths

I can only give the same advice I always give when asked this question - Don't do it! Defenders are slow, noisy, draughty, leaky, thirsty, rusty and unreliable. In todays market they are also hugely overpriced. This last one is opinion, all the previous points are just acknowledged facts. If none of the above puts you off, then Welcome! and don't worry, everyone else here is mad too . Also you should be aware that LRs are dangerously addictive, even in small doses. In the long term, one is rarely enough

Not sure what's up with your solenoid, but guessing you've welded a contact internally. It is possible to source spares for Albright solenoids. e.g. https://www.arc-components.com/albright-dc88-replacement-components.html

Copied from another forum where I found it when I had the same problem, putting a kitchen worktop in the back of the D3. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Length of Projection: Not exceeding 1 metre Action if load projects rearwards: No requirements specified Action if load projects forwards: No requirements specified Length of Projection: More than 1 metre, but not exceeding 2 metres Action if load projects rearwards: End must be made clearly visible Action if load projects forwards: No requirements specified Length of Projection: More than 2 metres, but not exceeding 3.05 metres Action if load projects rearwards: Marker boards required Action if load projects forwards: Attendant and marker boards required Length of Projection: Exceeding 3.05 metres Action if load projects rearwards: Two clear working days notice to Police; attendant and marker boards required Action if load projects forwards: Two clear working days notice to Police; attendant and marker boards required These requirements are set out in Regulation 82(7) of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 (C&U). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Amazingly, just because someone said it on the interwebz doesn't automatically make it true (not even FB apparently!), but if you're worried you can look up C&U and check it.

I refer you to the wisdom of guru @Nonimouse https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/111696-manual-auto-thoughts-and-help-required/?do=findComment&comment=1031172

Not really much to add, except I won't fit the 130HD clutch again. When I fitted the TGV I had whatever Motor and Diesel were selling as the HD clutch option at the time, but I could smell the clutch when pushing hard on the motorway (33" tyres and overdrive). When I had gearbox problems I took the opportunity to try a 130HD clutch. It was OK for a few months, but the centre plate collapsed and all the springs escaped at the Shires 7S event. I fitted another, which didn't do much better. Motor and Diesel offered an 'Extra HD' clutch, with the caveat that the gearbox would rattle (I assume the damping springs are too stiff for the rotating mass) and at a fearsome price. I have no idea what it was, as M&D had removed all the identifiable part numbers (I fully understand why, and I'm not complaining, but I don't have to like it either!). That has lasted at least 10 years and 150k miles - it's been so long I've forgotten the details. I had sort of mentally pencilled-in LOF for when I need another, but without any particular reasoning, other than they weren't pushing paddle clutches that have no place in a Land Rover. Like @muddy I'm suspicious when something new is held up as the ultimate based on advertising and little or no relevant track record, but I know the TGV will want something better than standard tdi. Given the age of every tdi out there, it might be worth getting the flywheel refaced ?

You managed to remove a whole Mini from the garden without my noticing for several months/years. I reckon you can probably add back a cylinder head without much trouble!

On a D3, the first place I'd look would be the rear brake calipers. They have a habit of sticking intermittently, and as they heat up they get grabby and the shuddering starts. Replacements are fairly cheap and very easy to fit.

Agreed, the 3.0 version is lovely. Similar performance to the Cummins 2.8. It would probably have made a great crate engine conversion for LR like the 2.8 before it, but as I recall, International would (or could) sell crate engines but not ECUs.

I sort of agree with your objections to the 300tdi and 2.8 because they are all getting on a bit, but if you have the possibility to source donors from South America, then both could be attractive options (2.8 from a Ford Ranger, 2.5 from a Merc Sprinter?). Should be a relatively easy fit, using mostly standard parts. 2.8TGV in good fettle will give decent power and torque. When new, mine was smoother and quieter than a 300tdi, though 15 years on it's pretty noisy, and a bit down on power too. ISTR Motor and Diesel sell an adapter for 300tdi to the Puma gearbox? (Think they also sell the 3.7 conversion mentioned above). If the RoW spec Puma gets the usual Puma dashboard, then don't forget to factor the cost of driving that into your sums. I've only seen one off the shelf conversion to drive the Puma dash (from a tdi/td5), and while I don't remember what it cost, I do remember thinking it was pretty spendy for £25 worth of electronics.

Too late! Strangely my low mileage, 24V Cossie ebay bargain was collected very promptly Didn't really want to sell it, but too many projects, and at least it was headed for a restored Capri

I used a Steve Parker adapter. It was a while ago, but I suspect it's the same as the SPLR Series adapter that you have. I think I still have one in the shed somewhere - I will try to dig it out and take a pic for you. I know I have a Cologne adapter because I found it the other day, but pretty sure theres still an Essex adapter there as well. Plenty of other Essex bits if you need/want anything - including the SPLR nearside exhaust manifold (where you can't reuse the Ford manifold) and (I've just remembered) an original Swaymar 4-bbl inlet manifold, and just about everything needed to Megasquirt it, including EDIS. Actually there's a complete Specialized Engines 3.1 Essex still sat in there too. Someone bought it from me a year ago, paid, then never collected it!