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They are indeed where the heater injects warm air into the footwells. If the heater does not keep you toasty warm in freezing winter, then something is broken. There are cables from the levers sticking out of the instrument panel to the heater-box in the engine compartment and to flap valves behind the plastic inlets in your pictures. Start by testing if all these are in good order.

I've done several cambelt changes over the years using a torque wrench in the same style as the one in the picture by Retroanaconda above. Mine was obtained from a reputable auto-parts store local to me, however it does not sport a fancy well-known brandname. So far no problems.

According to the "Parts Catalogue Land Rover Defender 90 110 130 1987 to 2001", the front hub can have the following partnumbers: FRC6139 to KA930455 FTC942 from LA930456 I do not have a Discovery I parts catalogue to hand. The number HTC1236 that you mention, is not included in the index in the parts catalogue and it does not show up in searches.

DII 2002 V8 4,0 Motronic When pushing the engine to perform, it misfires badly. Eg. when trying to accelerate briskly from 100 to 130 km/h, the engine will most often misfire, loose its will to accelerate, and only reach say 115 km/h. When cruising at 110 km/h it will sometimes start to misfire and the speed drops down to 100 or 95 km/h. At other times it will happily drive at 110 or 130 km/h for quite a while without misfiring. Replaced during 2020 by myself: camshaft(LR), hydraulic lifters(LR), timing chain(LR) + sprockets, injectors (Bosch), sparkplugs(NGK) The camshaft was well past its prime, as were the other parts. Replacing all these parts took the engine from undriveable to working ok, unless I push it above say 75% or so. I did the replacements in increments, and each increment made the engine perform significantly better/less badly. So whats likely to be the next step? I could keep on replacing parts, the next step would be either the ignition coils+leads or the lambda+maf sensors. But I am wondering if the problem could be elsewhere, eg. either the ECU itself or the wiring harness for it. How to best diagnose? Nanocom has this sorry story to tell: P0134 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM CATALYST BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 21 TIMES SIGNAL INVALID P0172 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 1 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 1 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 2 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH P0303 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE CYL 3 DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 64 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH P0305 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE CYL 5 DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 64 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 2 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH P1000 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM CATALYST BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 7 TIMES SIGNAL INVALID P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C OCCURED 66 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH P1668 = ANTI-THEFT ALARM SERIAL LINK FAULT DRIVE CYCLE A OCCURED 1 TIMES SIGNAL TOO HIGH NA OCCURED 65 TIMES SIGNAL TOO LOW FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT NA OCCURED 193 TIMES SIGNAL TOO LOW FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT NA OCCURED 0 TIMES SIGNAL TOO LOW FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT

It will most likely come out, but at what price? You risk ruining the seals and having to refurbish the caliber/brake cylinder. If you choose to use heat, do empty the brake caliber/cylinder of brakefluid first and leave it open while applying heat. Preferably remove it from the vehicle before applying heat. That means undo the brake line first. If the brakeline is too far stuck to undo without heat, then most likely you are in for a full refurbishment of the caliber/cylinder anyway.

I agree. WD40 is a poor choice for undoing rusty threads. See what the professionals in your area are using, and try to shop where they do.

Oil leaks In general, the origin of a Land Rover oil leak need not be near where the oil is seen. Any oil leaked will be blown around by the wind. Do clean and degrease the entire area thoroughly, then start up the engine and look for leaks, if none are showing, then drive half a minute down the road and back, then inspect again. If it goes from "no oil showing" to "oil everywhere", then clean and degrease once more and dust the entire with baby powder, then try the start up & inspect and drive a very short distance & inspect again. You can buy degreaser in big jugs to fill sprayer bottles. Thats by far the cheapest route and as a Land Rover Owner you will be needing lots of it 😃 Thermostat Have you flushed the coolant system? Take the radiator out of the Land Rover. Put the garden hose into one connection and see what comes out. Rust flakes, slimey nasty semi-solid stuff, odd coloured liquid - its all a possibility. Flush the engine coolant system as well - gently - with the garden hose. Then refill with proper mixture of antifreeze/antirust and demineralised water, air out the system (open the uppermost plug, and jump up & down on the front fender) Remove the thermostat - put it in a pot of water, heat it on the stove, put a thermometer in the water. See if it opens around the temperature its supposed to. Or replace it strait away without bothering to test it, they are cheap. Rear axle clunk Can be halfshaft/drive flange, differential or propshaft. Undo the drive flanges and pull out the halfshafts. If the rims are the original steel rims or similar, its can be done without removing the wheels. Its 5 bolts and a paper gasket. Once out have a play with them by hand. Any play is readily seen/heard/felt. Propshaft - get beneath, grab hold, pull and turn, listen and look. You can see and feel any play in the U-joints or the slider. Differential - Put the halfshafts & drive flanges back in, undo the propshaft from the diff. Rotate the differential by hand. You can readily feel any play or absence of it. Spareparts in general Spareparts like driving members, driveshafts, propshaft U-joins and gaskets for a Land Rover are cheap. Do avoid the cheapest offerings though and buy the higher quality brands. Otherwise you will have to do the jobs over and over.

Be two persons. Use string and soapy water. Clean the windscreen frame after having removed the old rubber. Be prepared to sand & paint any bubbles in the metal before fitting the new windscreen. It will take 1-2 hours if you do not have to paint.

I must admit the current crop of "Land Rover models" leaves me cold, while the new Ford Bronco looks interesting. It will be interesting to see if the Ford Bronco is indeed a robust get-through-come-hell-or-high-water vehicle, or merely a car styled to look that way. Can it eg. be hosed down and degreased internally in the cargo compartment without any carpets or electrics being harmed? What is the real wading depth for daily use? After having been bogged down in a muddy field, with water and mud in the footwells, will it be a small matter of hosing out the mud and hanging the floormats to dry, or will it need new carpets and a major electronics refit? Is there a sensible thought-out location to put extra batteries and an uprated generator to drive a winch? Same for locations for sandmats, shovel, highlift, chainsaw, jerrycans etc. What is the actual towing capabilities in deep mud? Can it recover a fully loaded trailer or another vehicle bogged down in mud?

M10x30 according to the usual webshops that sell LR parts. Make sure you clean the threads in the block thoroughly first: compressed air, some penetratingoil/rustremover, more compressed air, then try to screw a fresh bolt in by hand to make sure the thread is free of obstructions all the way, only then try to mount the oilfilterhousing.

Another important step in the sounddeadening process is to to find and plug each and every hole in the firewall. Any missing grommet or unused bolthole between cabin and engineroom will transmit noise. Meticulously find and plug each and every one of them. Same for any rustholes in the footwells, get them welded up.

Yes exactly that one. Its stood up to use & abuse for many years and still looks and works perfectly. Well worth the price.

I did my 90" like 15 years ago or so. Under the bonnet I cleaned away all rust and applied rustproofing. Then I went to the local boat-shop and obtained some foam-engine-room-insulation, its thick, dense foam with aluminiumfoil on one side and self-adhesive on the other. Hard to set on fire as well, which is important for an engineroom. Cut to fit with a knife. Has been working fine since then. The seatbox got the ExmoorTrim offering. A wellfitting Heavy-Duty lead-rubber overcoat for the seatbox, gearboxtunnel and floor. I've been very satisfied with the product. These two together reduced the noise in the cabin significantly.

I've had an U-joint disintegrate and destroy its yoke in much the same way as in driveallknights pictures, despite having greased the U-joints often. Exactly as David explains, the grease only ever made it past one or two of the four pins of that particular U-joint It seems that grease follows the path of least resistance, so regular greasings in itself is not enough to guard against this type of failure. I've replaced U-joints once they started to loosen up or to make noise/vibrations, checking them every time I happened to be underneath the LR. Its only failed me that one time.

Years ago I owned a 90" with a 2,5 n/a like yours. I learned early on that n/a stands for "No Acceleration". Thats just the way it is. However there are a few things you can do to make sure all the horses are indeed present and pulling their weight. With so few in total you do not want to be missing any: Get the injectors refurbished by a reputeable diesel specialist. This is supposed to be done at a fixed interval. If prior owners have neglected to have this done, you might see a dramatic change for the better. Make sure the air inlet is free of obstructions, which basically means put in a fresh airfilter insert and make sure the air inlet hose if fitted does not collapse under load and restrict airflow into the engine. Measure the engine compression. If its low in one or more cylinders some degree of rebuild will do wonders. Consider tires with a lower circumference. That will lover the overall gearing and thereby help acceleration at the cost of some offroad performance. Regarding the brakes: Get them fixed. The standard brakes are perfectly fine if in good order.