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tychoS

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About tychoS

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  1. Oil leaks In general, the origin of a Land Rover oil leak need not be near where the oil is seen. Any oil leaked will be blown around by the wind. Do clean and degrease the entire area thoroughly, then start up the engine and look for leaks, if none are showing, then drive half a minute down the road and back, then inspect again. If it goes from "no oil showing" to "oil everywhere", then clean and degrease once more and dust the entire with baby powder, then try the start up & inspect and drive a very short distance & inspect again. You can buy degreaser in big jugs
  2. Be two persons. Use string and soapy water. Clean the windscreen frame after having removed the old rubber. Be prepared to sand & paint any bubbles in the metal before fitting the new windscreen. It will take 1-2 hours if you do not have to paint.
  3. I have a DII V8 with ACE and Coil Springs. Both are factory fitted.
  4. I must admit the current crop of "Land Rover models" leaves me cold, while the new Ford Bronco looks interesting. It will be interesting to see if the Ford Bronco is indeed a robust get-through-come-hell-or-high-water vehicle, or merely a car styled to look that way. Can it eg. be hosed down and degreased internally in the cargo compartment without any carpets or electrics being harmed? What is the real wading depth for daily use? After having been bogged down in a muddy field, with water and mud in the footwells, will it be a small matter of hosing out the mud and hanging the f
  5. M10x30 according to the usual webshops that sell LR parts. Make sure you clean the threads in the block thoroughly first: compressed air, some penetratingoil/rustremover, more compressed air, then try to screw a fresh bolt in by hand to make sure the thread is free of obstructions all the way, only then try to mount the oilfilterhousing.
  6. Another important step in the sounddeadening process is to to find and plug each and every hole in the firewall. Any missing grommet or unused bolthole between cabin and engineroom will transmit noise. Meticulously find and plug each and every one of them. Same for any rustholes in the footwells, get them welded up.
  7. Yes exactly that one. Its stood up to use & abuse for many years and still looks and works perfectly. Well worth the price.
  8. I did my 90" like 15 years ago or so. Under the bonnet I cleaned away all rust and applied rustproofing. Then I went to the local boat-shop and obtained some foam-engine-room-insulation, its thick, dense foam with aluminiumfoil on one side and self-adhesive on the other. Hard to set on fire as well, which is important for an engineroom. Cut to fit with a knife. Has been working fine since then. The seatbox got the ExmoorTrim offering. A wellfitting Heavy-Duty lead-rubber overcoat for the seatbox, gearboxtunnel and floor. I've been very satisfied with the product. These two toget
  9. I've had an U-joint disintegrate and destroy its yoke in much the same way as in driveallknights pictures, despite having greased the U-joints often. Exactly as David explains, the grease only ever made it past one or two of the four pins of that particular U-joint It seems that grease follows the path of least resistance, so regular greasings in itself is not enough to guard against this type of failure. I've replaced U-joints once they started to loosen up or to make noise/vibrations, checking them every time I happened to be underneath the LR. Its only failed me that one time
  10. Years ago I owned a 90" with a 2,5 n/a like yours. I learned early on that n/a stands for "No Acceleration". Thats just the way it is. However there are a few things you can do to make sure all the horses are indeed present and pulling their weight. With so few in total you do not want to be missing any: Get the injectors refurbished by a reputeable diesel specialist. This is supposed to be done at a fixed interval. If prior owners have neglected to have this done, you might see a dramatic change for the better. Make sure the air inlet is free of obstructions, which basic
  11. From the LT230 FAQ at https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/lt230-faq-s.html What oil should I use in my LT230 ? Use a GL4 or GL5, either mineral EP80/90 or synthetic EP75W90
  12. That is what I would recommend as well. Weld a nut onto the stuck bolt. You apply the weld on the inside of the nut (where the threads are) The heat from welding will help to loosen the bolt and will give you something to apply plenty of torque to.
  13. My 2,5 TD starts within one or two rotations of the crankshaft. That is after a good pre-heating using the glow-plugs, 10 seconds on a lukewarm summers day, 20-30 seconds in freezing winter.
  14. JATE rings and the bridle approach in mickeyws picture is the way to go. Fit a pair front and rear. If you have to add washers to get a snug fit, use large diameter washers, in order to spread the load well.
  15. Oil drips from other parts of the Land Rover tends to be deposited in that area by the turbulent winds when driving. Use the colour of the oil and its smell to narrow down the possible sources. A thorough cleaning of the enginecompartment and the gearboxes etc. followed by a very short drive might also reveal the source. You have to stop and look for leaks before the oil is carried all around the underside by the turbulent winds.
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