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Sunray-I40 last won the day on August 26 2016

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    Henley on Thames

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  1. Just looked at standard wheels the strap ought to pass through one of the 'slits' that are around the wheel. the wheel is not solid all the way around.
  2. yes a spoked type of wheel or land rover wolf wheels - the straps will pass through the holes around the wolf wheel (and the holes in modular wheels). sadly not the standard rim though.
  3. i wouldnt use them on hard clay or mudstone (see other posts). for info they come with rim protectors for low profile wheels.
  4. if the handles are bent then just cut the strap. the US Army and other agencies have bought them. i can't see that happening without testing but I'll let you know how they go. i'd be surprised if they bend that easily in the mud around where I am
  5. true enough. i might just use them on trips in unfamiliar ground. whereas for use where I know the ground the truckclaws will suffice
  6. yes, sensible and judicious choice of when and where to use prevails, but I could have used them on the farm the week before they arrived. I was stuck near a field gate where the cattle churned up the mud too badly. they would have been much quicker than lots of shuttles with the max trax or walking to the farmhouse for the tractor! and would have left no trace beyond the cattle.
  7. Christmas present in the post today! I've just got hold of a pair of 'Truckclaws II' to get out of the mud - so small, simple and with advantages over tracks and mats (I have used maxtrax till now!). I'm looking forward to trying them out soon to see if i can discard my maxtrax! https://youtu.be/O_uofTU8GTc
  8. Hi, my 300tdi 110 was made (i understand) around the cross over point between 2 variants of engine sump drain plugs and washers (a feature is the switch between copper and aluminium washers). Can anyone help me with what part numbers I need for drain plug and washer? My VIN is SALLDHMF7TA974250, and Engine no 16L A30152A.
  9. thnaks for this I'll print and compare to my battered original!
  10. I'm trying to find the part number for the fuse layout sticker/decal on the inside of the fuse box cover for a 1995 300tdi 110 (VIN SALLDHMF7TA974250). I can't see such a thing in the decal or fuse sections of the pdf parts book I have. can anyone help please? thanks.
  11. I'd love to know how to get to 36 mpg! i have plenty of power and now I'm used to driving the 'new' engine am getting a shade of 30.9 mpg consistently.
  12. Most of the improvements have indeed come from the things you refer to, almost back to 'as it left the factory', but the last 15% or so has come from the combination of increasing the RAI tube size and the air flow from inside the wing to air cleaner box, both of which were done after getting the engine to where it should be. Defender2.net has an interesting thread on air flow http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49178.html?highlight=air+intake
  13. I have a 1995 Defender 110 300 TDI and often tow an ex-Army Sankey MkIII trailer converted for camping. Until late last year, I was averaging 26-27.5 MPG (see note 1) My old steel military raised air intake (RAI – see note 2, Bearmach or Mantec brand I think) with 2.5 inch internal diameter tube was rusty and needed replacing; and I replaced it with a Mantec polyurethane 3 inch tube RAI (with Donaldson Air Ram head). This immediately increased my MPG to 27-28.5 MPG; I also noticed a small increase in power. This set me thinking, and I explored the airflow inside the engine bay. On the inside, the Land Rover air duct box and hose appears to reduce the cross-sectional area through which air flows, yet the air cleaner box has a 3 inch inlet (this applies to both the standard Land Rover air cleaner, and the military Wolf / Donaldson air cleaner box which I use —without the second filter safety element on UK roads). So I explored the question ‘what would happen if there was a 3 inch minimum cross-sectional area for air to flow from RAI head to air cleaner box intake?’ Before I could answer this question, I had to address the cause of an MOT failure (excessive emissions). The expensive solution to this was a new turbo (the wastegate had seized on the old one), new fuel injectors (the old ones were 20-25 % out), fuel injector pump reconditioning and new glow plugs. While I was at it, I also got my local garage to do an engine carbon clean! Doing all this took my fuel consumption to 28.5 - 30.5 MPG, produced a very noticeable increase in power —especially when towing uphill— and negligible emissions. I could now answer the airflow question! I noticed that the air duct box for the 200TDI has a circular cross-section, as opposed to the rectangle of the 300TDI, and while the box is basically the same shape, it is a mirror image because the 200 TDI air duct is on the left hand side, whereas on the 300 TDI it is on the right hand side. So I started looking for something similar to the 200 box which would fit a 300. My research led me to the Nugget Stuff sealed air intake box which was designed for the Puma TDCI with a 90 mm outlet. I had a chat over the telephone with Wayne Nielsen at Nugget Stuff, and he sent me a Puma sealed air intake box to try, with some 90mm hose, a stepdown ring and a length of 76mm/ 3 inch hose (superb quality hose!). Last week, the system was installed into my Land Rover. I immediately noticed an increase in power and a lower tone in the engine sound; I could accelerate like a boy racer! The day it was fitted, I called Wayne and said that I expected my fuel consumption to increase because my right foot was enjoying the ability to accelerate so much more quickly! After a day or two, I checked my fuel consumption (my local garage pump really does dispense exactly what it says; I have checked!), and sure enough I was doing 26.5 MPG (short school runs and local errands). After a week, having now disciplined myself to be more ‘sensible' in how I drive —but I am still driving faster than I did —I am now doing 29.8 MPG. That’s very close to my best ever 30.5 MPG which was achieved with less speed and engine power. Conclusion —the combination of a 3 inch RAI and minimum 3 inch air flow through to the air cleaner box on my Land Rover has increased power and engine efficiency very noticeably, and given me a sealed system. Notes 1 On purchase in 2012 it was 18 MPG; the increase to 26 was achieved by fitting: full width intercooler (also increased power by 25%), full silicone hosing, EGR blanking plate, RAI and frequent tyre pressure checking. 2 In my view, an RAI only keeps the air intake out of the dust; and an RAI only becomes a snorkel when the air intake system is sealed for wading.
  14. i don't but i'll ask the guy that did the work, thanks for this
  15. I have a 1995 300 TDI defender 110. Up to a few months ago I was getting 30 MPG ‘daily driving’. Sadly, the vehicle failed the MOT on emissions grounds. To cure the emissions problem I had to replace the turbo ( a vain had seized), recondition fuel injectors (they were 20-25% out), and recondition the fuel pump. At the same time I also had the engine carbon cleaned. After all this work, the increase in power was phenomenal and the emissions were virtually zero but this came at a cost — I now get 25 MPG daily driving (and I consciously keep my foot off the accelerator pedal!). I would like to get back to the 30 MPG I had (even if it means sacrificing some power). All advice welcome as I know naff all about fuel systems.
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