il-bob

Is there a replacement PSC steering pump that fits a GEMS 4.6 V8 without modification? Current steering pump went bust and thought of replacing with a higher pressure pump as got a hydraulic RAM assist. thanks, bob

I got some rod ends from bulletproofsteering to fit on drop arm end. Now need to widen the tre hole on drop arm to 19mm, and job done

There's a td5 powered RR for sale on maltapark. Sorry but can't post link

Yes tried without snorkel but still dies with maf plugged in

Yes tried without snorkel but still doesn't dies with maf plugged in

I had the OBD2 thing which I'll try tonight. Any will try to give the sensor a good clean

Hello, Yesterday I disconnected the maf sensor on the 4.6 GEMS to install a snorkel. Reconnected everything and for some odd reason, when starting it dies after a few seconds. If i disconnect the maf plug, engine will stay on. But if I switch off and re-connect the maf plug, it starts and dies soon after. The ecu light does not come on. I tried another used maf sensor but still the same. Any idea what might be the problem or what I need to check? These is voltage at the plug. Will it go to limp mode if I drive with the maf disconnected? Thanks, Rob

Ok, read the advert which says it all

What did these Range Rovers have different then normal RRs? Rob

My Disco is on 35s Silverstone, actually, more 34ish when measured. You feed at least a 3" lift. Mine sits on a 2" body lift and 1" suspension lift. I find it quite stable as it is. You also need to trim the fenders heavily. If you're putting on the 80 series axle, you'd need not to worry on offset. But if you stick with LR axles, you need some good offset wheels. bob

sensor came with gauge, so shouldn't be. Am I right in saying that the oil cooler must be earthed, and the sensor reduces resistance proportional to the temperature?

Hello, I've placed the auto gearbox oil cooler on the back of the truck and connected an oil temperature gauge. Gauge is not reading at all. I've earthed the oil cooler to make sure there's good contact. If I earth the switch wire, the gauge goes to full. What might be wrong? thanks, Bob

The diagram I uploaded before is wrong. The box on top is the radiator. The electric pump will be placed in between the bottom of the rad and the water pump. The thermostat will be removed to have constant flow. Now I figured out I'll place the thermostatic switches on the bottom hose in between the rad and the electric water pump with a housing similar to the one Zim posted bob

That's a real axle. Well done!!

From what I got from this post bu Team Idris, more flow will be better... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some interesting stuff on the other thread there. The faster the water flow the higher the Reynolds number, so less boundary layer and better water to metal heat transfer. But also, watts = mass-flow-rate * heat-capacity-fluid * temp difference. If the watts are fixed and the mass flow rate doubled, the temp difference halves. So 100 over 90 deg.c becomes 100 over 95. (assuming engine makes 100 deg.c and rad exits 90 deg.c). 95 is further from the ambient cooling air than 90, so the rad works better. So you get a double helping from a faster water flow. But the back pressure is the square of the velocity, so twice the flow could take a lot more shaft power? Sure is a tricky one -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- See question 7 on this link from Craig Davis website...http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps__EWP-content.aspx They put in two Elec WP inline for better cooling I tested flow on a switched off EWP and water passes through the pump normally. I got the idea from some guys here in Malta who run this setup, and had no issues with cooling even in Croatia.

Hello, Will be keeping both pumps since in Malta it's quite hot so need good flow. see if this makes any sense. The box marked EP is the electric pump. http://s175.photobucket.com/user/rzammit/media/IMG-20130917-WA0000_zpsebeb06de.jpg.html'> bob

I'm keeping the normal pump. The electrical will be an additional pump since I'm moving the rad to the back. Once water temp reaches 68 deg, the elec water pump will start. My thermostat is in the housing where the top hose attaches to, so, if I'm not wrong, coolant will only pass one the thermostat opens. The bypass hose (No 4 in pic) is blanked off. Can i place the switches there? I don't really know since when I bought the engine it was already like that . I'll take a picture and post it.

Hello, I need to add 2 thermostat switches, one for the electric fans and one for the electric water pump on a 4.6 V8. Where can I place them? Thermostat is not remote as in normal P38, but in the housing as in a 3.9. Any ideas? http://s175.photobucket.com/user/rzammit/media/cooling_zps0c514c17.jpg.html'> thanks, Bob

Hello, Currently we're in the process of changing from 300 Tdi to 4.6 V8, and from manual to auto on our tray backed Range. Engine and box are already in place, We're moving the radiator to the back whilst in it. I need 3 oil coolers, one for the gbox, steering and engine. I read that Laminova are great, but I don't fancy water cooled once. So, how am I going to choose which oil coolers I need? Preferably, all 3 have the same thread so if one gives up, I can simply bypass by a ready made hose with fittings. What do you suggest? Some pics below... Engine in place http://s175.photobucket.com/user/rzammit/media/20130710_185947_zps18ac1263.jpg.html'> Old fuel tank http://s175.photobucket.com/user/rzammit/media/20130710_190003_zpsdd3a7217.jpg.html'> ..out..and batteries will be sitting ther http://s175.photobucket.com/user/rzammit/media/20130710_190501_zps90727fd1.jpg.html'> How everything will fit inc rad.. http://s175.photobucket.com/user/rzammit/media/20130718_201804_zps8a443a7e.jpg.html'> new fuel tank http://s175.photobucket.com/user/rzammit/media/20130724_200958_zps4078e120.jpg.html'> Bob

Many thanks guys. thinking I'll go for OME. bob

Thanks Daan. how would OME compare to these Fox shocks? http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=offroad&t=shocks&p=3383&ref=filter There's not much difference in price. bob

Thanks guys. Then OME it is on the front. Do you think it makes any sense going to double shock on the rear? bob

Hey guys, I need some advice on shocks.. Our challenge trayback Range Rover is currently on 12" front ProComps and 16" Rough Country in the rear. Damping is lacking and am thinking of either changing shocks or adding a shock on each corner. Considering the new type of events, where speed is involved, do you think double ProComps will hold on? Or should I go for OMEs as secondary shock? I found these 13" OME shocks on ebay.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Old-Man-Emu-13-inch-travel-shock-absorbers-off-road-4x4-OME-suspension-4x4-/180983723428?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a237875a4 or 13" ProComps.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Procomp-Shocks-ES9000-Pro-Comp-13-inch-travel-Long-Travel-Shock-Absorbers-/170786864038?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c3b0bba6 Also found some 15" Procomp shocks for the rear.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Pro-Comp-Shocks-ES9000-15-inch-travel-Long-Travel-Shock-Absorbers-4x4-/170728409373?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c034c91d First I was thinking of getting some FOX or King second hand shocks, but the thought of breaking one and have to replace with a new one put me off. Do you think that I will get good enough damping with dual shock setup? Thanks, bob

This might help.. http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/GEMS/GEMSbyPoole.pdf

Yep, that's my beastie No vibrations, maybe because of it's 105" wheelbase and the wide yoke prop shaft. This weekend we competed in Noto, SIcily. Terrain there is mainly rock and soil. We had no problems at all with the axles and we're running 36" Fedimas with plenty of abuse. Most vehicles there are set up with Y60 or Y61 axles. Most people I spoke to that run these type of axles recon these are the best budget axles that can withstand punishment. RCV also make upgraded shafts and CVs and they are guaranteed at 42" tyres. Our 38s should be on this weekend and will be competing again on the 14th of April. Will keep you updated. Some photios of the axles below.. Rear: Front: bob