fender1234

i had a problem like this, it turned out to be the tensioner for the cambelt. however i would say a leaking turbo hose is most likely.

The old swivels and new will be taper roller bearing at the bottom with 13mm bolts, its the top one thats either taper roller or railko, the railko is 17mm bolts and taper roller are 13mm i think. just have a look at the top swivel pin and see what size the bolts are. Hope this helps

i think they are 8.8

http://www.cboffroad.com/forum/index.php?a...tal;sa=page;p=3 is this it?

this place sells braided fuel hose http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/FUEL-SYS...3212/index.html its not cheap though

From the end of the dumb iron to the most sticky outy bit is 140mm thats with no cutting out of grills etc for winch, if you wer to cut the grill u could recess the winch about 40/50mm further at a guess. It gives me plenty of approach for what i do

I would say have a go yourself, use genuine seals and follow Les's excellent guides for both seals http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7903 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=18732 As for the gearchange, i find mine isnt the smoothist when cold so i just take it steady and change gear slowly until it warms up then mines fine.

Unless they are genuine parts i wouldn't bother HTH

Dont know whether its of interest but this is what i did with my bumper, it was just a standard height bumper with very little approach angle. all bracketry was made from 6mm plate, i like it becuse it gives good approach angle and a very sturdy bumper to protect wings.

i would take a prop off and go for a drive so you can rule out whether it coming from front or back, it also might be easier to check the props when they are off HTH

im still trying to test it but it has not been doing it since, i tryed with the fan and heater but that didnt do it so i will just wait until it does it next and try taking the wire off the injection pump then.

ok i will try it with the heater on and the engine electric fan to see if they are the cause

I went to try what you all said over lunch but the problem isnt happening now so im not sure if it only happens when upto temperature or somthing similar

ok cheers all i will check at lunch time and let you know the situation.

ok will try that. when i turn the ignition off the battery light comes on while the engine is running and then goes out when it dies dont know wether this means anything or not.

Hi again, strange problem last night when i got home i switched off the ignition on my 200tdi 90 but the engine carried on running and then died after about 10 seconds. Does anyone know the possible things this could be and how i go about testing it? cheers

here you go http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/custom_parts.php HTH

If its just to change the clutch then yes i would agree with this method.

Having done various different methods i find the easiest way is to take transfer box off first then gearbox, the gearbox crossmember can stay on using this method. i find this easiest for putting it back together aswell because they arent very heavy when seperate. and its much easier to mate gearbox up with engine when the transfer box isnt hanging off the back of it.

Bowie 69 - i will give it a go just to completely rule it out. I also thought of turning the engine over by hand when hot to see if it realy is any harder than when cold just to confirm it is the engine. Western i definately agree with this however looking on turner engineering website a recon engine block is £995 whether or not i need a recon block or just a bit of work to mine i dont know.

Is it worth getting an engine rebuild? or is another second engine the best way?

The reason i say its not electrical is its done it for a while with various starter motors and batteries, and recently ive fitted new bosch starter,twin batteries, split charge and a new alternator and all wiring either new or cleaned up and the problem is still there and also oil change made it worse so im thinking it must be somthing in the engine. something like engine partially seized is my gut feeling, my engine overheated and cracked the cylinder head about 1 year ago so im wondering if this could be it. how do i check for seizing engine? Now that you've mentioned the seizing idea i think the slow starting and oil light flickering all started about the time that it overheated

my disco 200tdi when run upto temperature (80 degrees) and then turn it off and try starting it soon after it turns over very slowly and only just starts. Ive also got that common problem of the oil light flickering on tickover when engine is hot, im not sure if these 2 problems are related, so i changed the oil filter and oil today and it has made the engine turning over problem worse. can anyone tell me if these 2 problems are likely to be related or if not what the possible things are making it turn over slowly? P.S. im 99.5% sure its not electrical

Having been on the castrol webite they recommend 0w30 engine oil or for 200/300tdi so wondered whether i should try that. Im not going to bother messing about with the cam bearing idea as it would be cheaper to get another second hand engine so i might as well keep driving mine how it is as it hasnt shown any problems

My engine also does this what engine oil is recommended to give me the most chance of getting rid of this problem?