NickMc

I want to modify the Td5 injector loom to fix it for once and for all i've seen guys using an epoxy, but it makes no mention of what it is. Anyone any recommendations?

On the td5 strikers the plastic cover that the catch latches over dont seem to last too long.

If you change the master do the slave cylinder as a few months down the line the new higher pressure will finish off the slave.

Equicar can be slightly dearer, but dealing with them is always A1 and you get what they say. Any problems i've had have always been fixed very promptly as well, you dont get that with most breakers. Skan 4x4 are good as well Warrick is the man to speak to.

Clean the threads out and smother them in coppaslip.

Can you tell I've done a few

Drill the nut and split it with a chisel.

From what little i can gather: FTC5120 Selector Quadrant £45.84+vat FTC4588 Selector shaft £50.88+vat

I always thought the Audi 2.5tdi would be a great engine to fit, the electronics would put me off though.

Here's the adaptor i found:

I priced the parts to change it and they're around £110 before you even get the shifter. I'm going to try and turn up the adaptor and use the LT77 top housing.

I've found a thread on another forum with an adapter that someone has turned up in the lathe. I might go down this route.

There is a little filter in the fuel filler head behind the union I'm 90% sure it's the back one on the left hand side.

That would be great!

Thanks Nick I don't mind splitting the box, just wondering if anyone had experience and knew what bits you need etc? Someone told me you could even use the LT77 shifter as well, don't know how true that is though..

What exactly is involved in changing them across to the defender shifter? I've lots of R380 300 Tdi Discovery boxes and LT77 Disco and Defender about, but no Defender R380s.

TD5 pumps do make a bit of noise, but not a lot. Yep as Ally says the relay holder pins can cause problems, as can the earth leads. I would try running another earth wire from the battery to the earth post under the drivers seat and see if your problem goes away, it earths the yellow fuel pump relay under the seat. Im seeing more and more 99/00/01 with wiring problems. Wires rubbed through the conduit, that passes round the side of the gearbox, Pedal wiring etc. I'd also have a look at the condition of the crank shaft sensor plug for oil contamination and backed out pins, especially if you've had a leak from the FPR.

Marslands or Richards chassis might be the only place that might do them?

They can be a real pig to remove when that stud seizes in i feel your pain! It's a very stupid design. I hope you put plenty of coppaslip or the like in when replacing it. The best way i've found is to heat the stud, shock it with cold water then let it cool down before trying to remove the offending stud, tightening and loosening it instead of just screwing it straight out a very "old school" engineer preached that to me Turners have the housings for £100 if worst comes to worst http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/200Tdi.html

It's a two stage pump though, high and low pressure, it's not just a standard "lift pump" After a quick google this explains it quite well and how to test it: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1460718-post37.html You could test the pressure with a cheapo gauge like this, but you'd need some hoses off a scrap regulator or fuel lines to connect it (theres plenty out there!) http://www.ebay.co.u...99#ht_696wt_956 Td5's are very easy to throw money at in the hope of fixing them (i see it all the time), but it's might be more cost effective to book it in somewhere. It also could be something like the injector washers on the way out, usually shown by signs of the oil level rising or the oil smelling strongly of diesel.

It doesn't give the "true" fuel pressure on the computer where you need it. I don't mean to tell you to suck eggs, but a td5 doesn't have a fuel pressure sensor. Is it not leaking where you say you tightened the regulator? Did you replace the gasket? did you check the small filter behind the O-ring? Was it leaking from the gasket or the actual regulator held in with the big circlip?

It's confusing because you say the regulator isn't leaking and then you said it is? The fuel pump whining is a bit of a give away that it has been leaking and the pump has had to work harder, though You need to measure the fuel pressure - It should give you around 4 bar. If the Fuel pump is toast don't replace it with the cheap pump- VDO only, the cheap ones don't last. You say it happens on hills which is either the pump or regulator failing, i'd guess. A computer will not give you an answer for these values. It may be a case that you need to change both now.

The way I get the broken bolts out is to heat it up, shock it with cold water, leave it to cool (too many people heat stuff up then try removing stuff while still warm) and use this style of extractor: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=630634&group_ID=675450 They are a lot cheaper on the van and worth their weight in gold for the holes they can pull you out of, even come with drill guides!

They are very early mid 80's split door latches.

Tank guard Cappings Slam panel Slam panel stays Middle brackets/feet for the tub Bulkhead feet Side sills Door frames Bulkhead tailgate back panel Horn bracket Anything made of steel really.