NickMc

I'm building a 110 Double cab up out of a rolled td5 and i want to coat the rear bed, internal floors and footwells in something a bit tougher and harder wearing than paint and not smelly wet carpet syndrome. I also like the thought of the sound deadening properties. There seems to be a load on the market: Protectakote U-pol Rator Hyperliner Dupli-Color Has anyone had any success with any of them? I did look into getting it done professionally, but the price is over the odds for what your getting and i'd rather buy a few more toys.

Bells and IRB do a lot of development stuff together so i'd say it's the same thing.

I just cut my box spanner down welded a flat plate and a old socket to it

Could be the allen head grub screw has come loose in the selector housing or the plastic affair and bronze ball has disintegrated. Do you have to "stir" the stick to get the gears? The other thing that is common is the spring bias plate.

Cut it off

Undo the turret so you can put it in at an angle

They're very common on trucks and you can get a pair for about £15

Try and get some Plus Gas penetrating oil not WD40. You could take it for a drive so they're warm then spray cold water on them to shock them, a good 6 point socket helps as well.

You can cut it off and fit a pipe cap.

Double post...stupid IPhone sorry.

Holy moly that's some sort of money for a carrier! It does look nice though. Do you have any pictures of yours Si? I don't think it would be too hard to get something similar made a decent hinge would be the hard bit. A few bearings and some time on the lathe and milling machine would soon sort that out though.

Thanks for the quick reply any idea of cost per chance?

Does Anyone know who makes the spare wheel carrier fitted to this 110 DC? I contacted them, but they didn't know. http://cgi.ebay.co.u...3#ht_550wt_1189

Sound like water has got into the ultra sonic roof sensor.

For the chunky plastic Tdci key and barrel sets to work on all the doors and ignition you need to change the front door handles to the post 02 type for the barrel to fit ( don't buy the cheap handles as they don't always come with the relevant parts that attach to the barrel end to operate things) check the price first before you order a barrel set as the handles aren't the cheapest. Central locking handles have a blank in the passenger side as a few have said. The post 02 Rear door also has a bigger lock barrel it can be changed, sometimes it's as easy as fitting the key pushing the pin in and pulling it out, sometimes it's drilling or screw and slide hammer time. Take reference of the barrel size if drilling as there is a step at the bottom. Also Iif you intend on fitting one to an earlier door some of the rear door skins where they have the hole for the barrel to poke through the skin is in the wrong place. As for the fuel filler key as far as I know your stuck with a different key.

Mercs are not built as well as they used to be and the price of the parts is scary!

I've bought them as recently as last week from my local supplier so they must be available.

I'd go for the Corteco seal never had any bother with them you could add a small smear of RTV round it to be safe.

All the dash clocks earths go through that block iirc.

Sounds like you've forgot the earth that goes on down to the drivers side of the transfer box or the white earth block on the bulkhead beside the brake servo

It all comes down to how good you are and the mixing ratio for the paint, if your mixing it for example 1:1 1 litre of paint will actually make two litres. Someone above said about buying 10 litres, by the time it's mixed you might end up with 25 litres which would be a hell of a lot of money wasted! You will be fine with two pack, a decent mask and decent ventilation as long as your not spraying 24/7. It's a much better paint, stronger, bit cheaper, easy to apply and easy to fix defects. I'd go for something like Delfleet paint. Forget all these online places go to the local paint factor and get it there, the price will be a lot better and you'll end up with exactly what you need.

The way I normally do it is take any corrosion back with 80 grit or anywhere you intent to apply filler. Then I'd rub the whole thing back with 240 grit then 400 grit. Red scotchbrite any good existing paint to a flat/Matt finish. Use the flat of your hand to feel for any dents/high spots/low spots take back to bare metal and apply the filler. Try and knock any big dents out and use as little filler as possible. You may need to apply top stop to any pin holes. Etch prime any bare metal . Primer filler if you need it and rub it back with 400 grit. The more time you spend on the prep the better finish you'll get. The same goes for masking take your time and you'll reap the rewards in the end. Something like a Devilbiss starting line gun will make a world of difference and cost around £60 I like to use two pack as its fairly forgiving and isn't too dear. Avoid plastic sheeting for a booth as static attracts dust then over night or when you start spraying it'll all fall back down on your lovely new paint. If your spraying outside I'd add a bit of rocket hardener to your standard you fast drying hardener and add just a splash of thinner to make it run (it'll be more forgiving and you get less runs if it's your first time) You want to wash the car well, then blow the dust off, panel wipe then tack cloth. I'd do a very light sticky coat first (it'll stop runs and save you a fortune in wasted paint) then do your shuts and edges making sure you get a good coverage on your shuts and gutters, then do a thicker coat over lapping each pass by around half way. Keep your gun parrellel to the panel and walk along with the gun don't swivel as you'll end up with thick and thin spots, when you get to the end of a panel feather off the trigger so you don't waste paint. A 90 I'd be looking at about 2.5 litres of paint and a 110 maybe 3.5 litres. Afterwards you can wet sand any dust or orange peel out with 1500-2000 grit and then something from the farcela range and a mop taking care on the curves and rivet heads that you dont burn through the paint, keep it wet and always moving.

Sometimes the filter head can go porous on them. More likely though is a stone has got stuck behind the filter and rubbed through I've seen it a few times.

I would take the crank shaft sensor out of the gearbox bellhousing (drivers side near the top) and give it a wipe as well. If the drain plug is left in all the time the dirt can build up on them.

The plastic cap on the front of the engine are bad for skrinking and then weeping which would look like a rocker cover leak.