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peterg123

Getting Comfortable
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  1. Dear Troll Hunter.....well the belt is a sectioned circle, so it has an OD and an ID............73.5mm was surely wrong... should have been Cms...you are right! Darn the weekend has hit too fast!
  2. Thanks Mike but if you put brake fluid in your PAS pump, you will be in for rouble! That said, yes, that could be the problem- in the PAS box rather than the pump. What I discoevred is, if you go for a proper Land Rover belt, it's fine..even a Britpart one....the Europart ones caused my problem... The steering box might have been labouring at travel of the PA rack rack ast point X...but as I have not a spare I'll go with the solution of the better belt for the moment. The Europart belts are 75.25mm O (sorry 73.5 CMS!)D, the original LR and Britparts ones are 73.5 mm (CVMS!--edit). Herein the prob! You cant get the Europart one tight enough.
  3. I have had success ditching the Europart Chinese PAS pump belt, having found an older one made in Denmark. The Britpart ones are longer and thus cannot get the proper adjustment tight enough to stop the slipping and subsequent squealing.
  4. Hi Guys 1 have an 87 Defender 110. My original Hoburn Eaton PAS pump leaked at long last. It was also screeching before it reached full lock, as the pulley seized. Had to back the steering lock bolts further and further out. Was not screeching/seizing like this from new,but as it developed over past year or two I still had to un it a few thousand miles of African bushwork in "screech" mode as I had work to do. The further I drove, the worse the screeching would get when on full lock.I have changed the PAS for a new Britpart equivalent . Surprise that it still screeches. Changed PAS pump belt. Screeches. (a) Some owners can get about 15mm between the tyre and the front link on full lock. Mine is screeching at 70mm distance. So I have very poor lock indeed. Any attept to go below 70mm and the screeching gets horrendous. (b) The belt is toothed. What have a toothed belt and a plain pulley? (c) I have tensioned the PAS pump belt all the way as far as it will go, and still have an inch of slack. I reasoned that this belt had to be very tight to drive the pump under extreme lock when the ADWEST PAS steering gear is putting massive pressure on the PAS pump. But I cant tighten further, there is no adjustment left in the slotted PAS pump mounting plate. (d) Therefore could it be the actual PAS pump pulley ET5783 is worn and that is why the belt is slipping and PAS pump locking up then releasing in a cycle? Ideas welcome folks. Thanks Peter Nairobi
  5. Thanks Old Hand however, I have that info. My prob is the intermediate gear ( 3 way) that mates to the input gear. The Ashcroft info is about the input gear but my problem is, which input gear mates with which intermediate gear ( the big one)?
  6. There are various LT230 with the serial numbers prefix 20D (meaning 2.5 petrol) and 3 different suffix Some have the SUFFIX B or C or D. I have already discovered the main input gear of a LT230 B suffix cannot be fitted to a D suffix model, because there is a rumbling noise from large LT230 intermediate gear and the centre teeth of the large intermediate gear are slightly wider than that from a "B" siuffix. . The teeth must have pitcth/width differences if my only conclusion? So what are the actual meanings of these SUFFIXES B C or D... do they mean that gears from one wont fit gears from the other? Even when teeth numbers are the same because of pitch or depth? Further example, I got another intermediate gear out of an unknown suffix LT230 box. The middle portion is the same narrower width to my B suffix mainshaft input gear. Looks like they would match perfect...nope... this one rumbles too when mated to my B suffix mainshaft input, so I suspect it's a C suffix. Would really appreciate an answer on this one........... because ordering new gears must be a nightmare otherwise
  7. Second Hand LT77 Suffix D came without either of the various FRC and TKC shim rings one selects and puts under the F4856 End Cover to get the correct play in the layshaft and the Input /Mainshaft Shaft FTC1428. There are about 10 of them in each series, and they seem to range from 1.69mm up to well over 2.14mm. The correct preload and play in the Combined Input + Mainshaft seems to be .002 thou" and in the layshaft about .002 also according to the Land Rover LT77 worskhop manual. I don't have the nominal 1.02mm shim that one uses to measure the end play ( Shim needed = nominal 1.02 shim + end play detected with dial gauge - about .002), but I have a dial gauge, so I Just assembled the end cover on, then grasped the input shaft up and down and got about 2.23mm play - fine, I can work out an FRC sim to the nearest and cut shimstock if needed to get the .002 thou and it seem, problem on input/mainshaft solved. Or is it? The layshaft has to measured from the opposite end of the box, needing to take on the mid-housing that holds the oil pump. Set up dial gauge, make sure I am getting up and down play, and measure t 1.34mm play, meaning on the F4856 end cover, I need a TKC type shim of 1.32 mm behind the layshaft race. But, the thinnest shim LR make is 1.69mm! Sure enough, I found a 1.99 mm TCK shim, fitted it to the end plate and the layshaft locked up..as it should fiven my measurement was more than .60mm under that....so I am on the right track with my measurement. Or am I? Big questions is, what am I doing wrong that I don't get end play according to the Land Rover list of TKC layshaft shims that start at 1.69mm..I am some .36 of a mm under the smallest shim they do! It seems weird to me that I woulkd have a Land Rover box that does not sit any of the shims they offer. The bearings are in good shape and the box is pretty clean internally. What am I doing wrong? Or do I just get a shim 1.33mm made up and fit? Am in Kenya..these answers are not easy to find!
  8. What a great Article however, when measuring layshaft and mainshaft end play using the end cover, you mention that the LT77 workshop manual shows one how to use the feeler gauge method, but you preferred the TR7 method with a dial gauge. Well, I have looked in various workshop manuals and all I ever see is the dial gauge method. Can you please explain how the feeler gauge method, using the end plate and various shims, would work? I have done my mainshaft with a "guessed" spacer of, to find the end float is 005", meaning I need to add a 003 shim to get it to the required 002" ( which is I think correct!? Kindly comment). But I am buggered as to how I can measure the layshaft as it is a blind fitting in the end cover. I have not dismantled all my box as this is not required..just setting the float and preload. Wil I have to take off the middle cover to measure the layshaft float? If you can help, would appreciate. Peter in Nairobi
  9. Thanks a lot that was very helpful. For some reason the photos are not showing on this page but I tracked it down as the NTC8287. Cheers!
  10. HI Attached the photo of my Holborn Eaton PAS pump Defender 1985 1985 model with attachment plate. What was the Part number of this item? And idea of the model number, the label is corroded can only read 1007/5 Does anyone know the replacement part if the original is NA or if there is a repair kit for the original? Thanks a lot Peter in Kenya
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