benthng

Solved it. Removed previously fitted lift pump spacer. Apparently this causes the pump to be too far away from cam lobe and not pump with enough pressure. Fuel was sucked entirely by injection pump and which is now overworked. Engine idles well and driveablec but not as powerful as before.

This is turning into another nightmare.. Cleaned out the sedimenter, replaced new fuel lift pump and bled air too but no joy. Engine still stall after running for a while. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the tips, checked wire connection to pump solenoid it's nice and tight. I have increase fueling a little by adjusting the FIP smoke screw and increase idling rpm to 950. No joy it stalled out on me twice just now while driving. Starts up straight away though unless engine bay too hot ( that's starter solenoid another issue altogether). Anyway the lift pump seems to be functioning as I had just bled the diesel filter (drained the lower water screw too... No water just diesel came out). Checked for blockage of FIP fuel return banjo bolt too. Cleaned it with brake cleaner and a small strand of wire thru the tiny orifice. Problem feels somewhat like air bubble in the fuel line causing fuel starvation. Will take it for longer drive and see what happens.

Hi all, happy new year 2014. The disco had been trouble free for some time, completed a 6000 km cross country trip happily cruising at 120km/hr with no issues. But over the past 3 days the engine almost stalled on 2 occasions, at both times the symptoms are as follows: RPM momentarily drops slightly below 300 rpm when de-accelerating (foot off pedal) just within 1km of starting up from cold Up a slight incline say 10 degree Diesel filter was change 7,000km ago and fuel sedimentor was also drained at same time. Fuel Injection Pump (FIP) stop solenoid was replaced and FIP was also overhauled by Bosch specialist 17,000km ago. No visible signs of fuel leakage from related fuel lines inside of engine bay. Any suggestions on where to start checking? Thanks in advance Ben

Hi Gary, I have similar problems for past few months, starter struggles to turn over after a long drive. In my case I strongly suspect it's the Spider Immobiliser circuit board faults (check out bogmonster,a post in discovery forum LR4x4). Having not enough time to remove dash panel to for a permanent repair. I did a quick fix... Wire up a relay at the starter motor using your original trigger wire to signal the relay (85) and taking power (30) directly from starter. That should provide stronger current (87) to run the starter solenoid, Ben

Perplexing, supposing FIP and other settings is same old same old then performance and egt should not run out. Maybe the fuel injection timing may have move a bit (retard) due to wear on the previous crank shaft keyway etc or if you have had it timed exactly per previous with piezo then ... different quality of fuel or engine oil? Best regards, Ben

Nissan Cefiro twin dual speed fan fits very well too, it's a teensy bit longer otherwise almost clip on. Can be used with Alfa 33 dual stage temperature switch thread size M22 which will fit the existing manifold. IIRC it trips on at 88 C off at 83 for low fan speed and the 2nd switch point at 93C and off at 88c

Found the problem, a blanking plug came off a 1/4" bsp hole that I tapped off the end of the intake manifold. It was one of those clever things that was done last year. Saw it when I shone a torch thru the intake hose end after a head scratching moment... As cleanng the sedimenter filter lift pump etc didn't work. Again thanks for all the advice. Puzzling how the plug came off though.

Waste gate rod can move forward and retract under very from spring tension, did not remove circlip though was afraid cant get it back on with the very narrow space. What are the chances of a chunk of carbon holding the gate open? Will clean sendimenter and change filter for now hoping its not a faulty lift pump and not stuck waste gate. Thanks guys.

Hi all Need help again, non edc auto disco normally spools up to 14 psi quickly but this morning struggled to reach 6psi even at 2000 rpm uphill. Air hoses checked ok, fuel pump aneroid diaphragm and intercooler not leaking, intake turbine spins with no free play, waste gate rod moves with spring tension. I am stumped and would greatly appreciate any ideas.

Hi if u like to experiment with controlling turbo boost for more power u can install a Dawes Device manual boost controller. See link for a DIY http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=103279 Do fit a boost gauge to help adjust so u won't overdo the boost and a exhaust temp gauge would be useful if u need to tune air fuel mixture to make the best use out of the MBC. Cheers

The loss of drive is caused by worn out Torque Converter, specifically splines in the Turbine Hub Runner are completely worn. Will try to attach photo.

Hi all Auto transmission rebuilders confirmed Torque Converter is faulty and will replace a gear inside the TC. Hopefully no more problems after reassembly. Thanks for all the advice, cheers Ben

Quick update from the garage; no hydraulic pressure, fluids looks good and pink and filter looks clean. They thinking likely TC or pump. Removing the gear box this afternoon. Hopefully just those. Ben

No time to open it up myself as my in laws are visiting, sending it to a mechanic friend. Will keep posted. Best regards Ben