kevindawes

Thanks for the advice.

Looks like this caused my ECU to play up. Now trying a loan ecu from Nige, new EDIS, plugs and coil packs and still I get a nasty misfire. Guessing leads and injectors next to try?

I've used it, pretty pleased with the results

I adjusted the setting down and it now starts without racing to 2k revs so happy with that. But now when its warming up and under load it misfires - as if you need to pull the choke out a bit. I re-ran the WAU in TS and its improved a bit. Once it's warmed up to 65 degrees it runs fine.

I've set mine to come on at 92deg (measured by MS and about 97 on my dash gauge) and it automatically turns off around 85deg. Green laning last week in france it seemed about right as when the car was running away from the wind the temp rose quickly and the fan caught it and brought it down reliably. When I drive off-road in spain the ambient temperature is much higher so when driving up long slow rocky hill and gravel riverbeds (engine working hard) I think I'll have a bit of a safety margin.

Al, as you know I'm know great expert at any of this but could it be one of your injectors is sticking open? This caused mine to run rich but I never revved it very hard so can't say if the problem is exactly the same as yours. By the way, do you recognise my profile picture?

Thank you sir.

When starting the engine, just after if fires the revs race to over 2k. After about 3 seconds the revs then drop to my preset idles values. Is there a setting I can play with to lower the initial start up revs?

I'm running a 74 degree thermostat from Nige so it won't be closing by the by the time the fan shuts off. I may up mine a degree or too, just wanted to make sure I was in the ball park.

Apologies as this this isn't really a megasquirt question. I've just fitted an electric fan to my 3.9 defender (engine came from a disco) and I was wondering what temperature most of you have set for the fan to kick in?. Currenty I have mine coming on a 87c and then switching off a relative 10c lower which isn't adjustable.

Thanks R_B

Interesting thread for sure R_B, interested in seeing your last table - the file link in the last post doesn't seem to work for me, would you please mind reposting?

I asked on the tunerstudio forum and got replies straight back. Basically my msq is in a really old format but if you re-save the file in tunserstudio and reload the error goes away.

When I try and load my msq file into TunerStudio I get the following error; 2 Warnings: Warning: MSQ Units Mismatch for maeRates4! kPa/s found in current configuration, ms found in MSQ, values were not converted to new units. Warning: MSQ Units Mismatch for taeRates4! Volt/s found in current configuration, ms found in MSQ, values were not converted to new units. Note : The computer is not connected to the ECU.

I was in the same boat as you a while back. What I did was send them all to a company I found on ebay who serviced them for £15 each. One of them turned out to be faulty and had been dumping twice as much fuel through as was required. They send you graphs showing the flow rates before and after the service. I just bought one new injector and knew then I had a fully functioning set, which basically meant I could confidently move on to thing that wasnt working properly

The dial gauge I bought is too short. Guess I may have improvise and try again.

So in summary, is my checklist below correct? 1. Check tdc with a dial gauge and mark the correct position on the timing mark plate 2. Set the trim table to 10 degrees 3. Connect the timing light 3. Start the engine 4. Set the timing gun to 10 degrees 5. Adjust the trim angle on the laptop until the timing light lines up with my newly set tdc mark. 6. Once set burn to ecu 7. Reset spark map to standard.

Thanks for the replies. I'm clear on the timing marks now, I think I'll be close but I'll get a dial gauge and make sure I'm spot on. I'll check the VR sensor again and make sure it aligns exactly as well. Checking that against what ms thinks seems well documented so I'll read and work through that next. So if I connect the timing light and rev the engine the strobe mark will move, sorry if this is basic and common sense to you all but for me I'm not certain - if I'm shown once I can normally understand how it works and do it myself from there, - I've never messed around with ignition before until I fitted ms. Saying that I don't think I did a bad job as I've just returned in the 90 from off-roading in the Spanish hills near Zaragoza where it was hot and very bumpy and the ms install never missed a beat. The engine got a bit hot, near 100 but it was totally reliable and I got double the fuel economy compared to the last time I went which I'm really happy about.

Does anyone know of a company near London who would be able to check/set my valve timing? I'm not sure if mine is right as the timing chain (adjustable) was fitted by someone else and when I set up the VR sensor against the timing marks on the block it just didn't work (trigger wheel wouldn't align). When I experimented with a screwdriver popped in the spark plug #1 hole to find TDC and then I lined up the wheel and vr sensor it worked. It then didn't line up with the TDC marks on the block - it was about a inch out to the right of the mark. The engine runs and starts ok but honestly I'm a bit dispappointed with power so I'm wondering if my timimg off - I'm just not sure (confident) on how to get it spot on so methinks I need some professional help (probably me and the motor to be honest). Also, how do you know if the EDIS is working (advancing) and not in limp mode? Many thanks in advance for pearls of wisdom.

Thanks Rangie, when I have the radiator off next I'll make some marks and double check my vr sensor. Must admit I'm not too clued up on this and the trim feature but I guess the only way is to have another read up and then have a go.

Mine turned out to be two faulty fuel pumps. Need to carry one as a spare as I'm really paranoid about them now. Truck is running well but I'm still tuning so hopefully get it running even sweeter, especially up the rev range. My only prob now is the timing, when I set the trigger wheel to the marks on the block it wouldn't line up. Eventually found tdc using a scredriver resting on the top of piston #1. The marks on the block were well out but the trigger wheel lined up and the engine fired. I don't think I'm too far away but have no-way I know to calibrate the timinmg to megatune. It isn't pinking nor does it feel overly retarded. I'd like to get it spot on but I don't know how.

I managed to get some time free'd up to tinker with my 90. A few changes, new ss exhaust system 2 1/4 inch (3" before and blowing), new fuel pump and checked earth wiring. Loaded base mapping and off I went. Only change was to the idle speed as it was idling quite high, so I probably have to set the base idle. Seemed to run ok, log attached, appreciate any comments on it in case something looks dodgy. Kev datalog201403231656.xls base tune aa.msq

I'll order one of those as well.

The fuel pump could be a culprit. It's only a few years old but the tank is old so it may have picked up something. I haven't had a chance to try as you've mentioned, but stop and restart normally gets it back running again. I'll order a new one so that can be crossed off the list.

I've never swapped out the VR sensor. What specifically should I be looking for in the logs to identify it as a problem?