GW8IZR
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Posts posted by GW8IZR
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On 6/5/2022 at 8:57 PM, Ed Poore said:
Second @Stellaghost's recommendation for Milwaukee - I've had my Fuel version for years now and although it's not used daily when it does get used it gets used heavily. It may also have taken the odd flying leap from 10 feet up onto an 8" concrete slab. Still going strong.
About a year after I got it I got some polycarbide discs for a 4.5" grinder and was taking some 88" panels back to bare metal for respraying. I decided I might as well, since it was a fixed location use my corded 4.5" grinder. Blew the gearbox up, ended up resorting to the Milwaukee and that was non-stop for 4h with two 5ah batteries on a constant charge/discharge cycle on a 35°C day. The grinder carried on, eventually the batteries said they were over-temperature so was having to give them 15 minutes after use to cool down before they would recharge.
Grinder is still going to this say. For corded stuff I've been mightily impressed with some Hitatchi (green) ones that I picked up at Toolstation in an emergency, they had a deal on with a 4.5", 9" and a load of discs for £100. They're both going strong and the 9" has done a lot of concrete and slate cutting recently and I have remembered to blow it out occasionally. Also has a soft-start feature on it which is nice when you've got a big disc on it.
I got my brother in law a Milwaukee Fuel and he isn’t one to treat tools gently, it works hard most days and has done well. He’s noticed that if he hammers the battery in very hot weather and sticks it straight back on charge it will get very hot so he lets it cool off a bit
id buy another
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45 minutes ago, Snagger said:
Me too. I think that is how it starts for many of us - building a car for the rest of our lives.
I did mine as a lifetime vehicle, I’ve owned it since 94, it’s been a 2 1/4 , a 2.5 a 3.5 and a 3.9 petrol but the Tdi was meant to take me through retirement - maybe that isn’t going to work out longer term and I may have to consider going back to petrol. If I get a few more years of oil burning I’ll be content.
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3 hours ago, Anderzander said:
The banding of mine started here …
Interesting thread, echoing my findings when I looked carefully at the chassis - I saw a new galvanised chassis as an opportunity 🙂
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29 minutes ago, Mudmonkey said:
Not sure how much banding is but the replica "ANR" wheels are £170 per wheel and are probably a bit more insurance friendly
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174283058609
I have a set fitted to the 100"
Yes they look nice those..
I reckon mine would have been better if Craddock's had followed my instruction and put the white lettering on the inside.. but that was about five years ago and I could have knocked them off and re fitted them many times by now 🙂
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30 minutes ago, western said:
landroversforever has a set of 5 XD/Wolf steels banded a while ago, not sure where he got them done, but I'm sure he would share the info.
Hi , thanks that would be useful info
then of course, it’s just occurred To me that they will then be non-standard rims.
In days gone by I ran around with tubeless tyres on these rims by just sticking tubes in them and the only issue I ever had was five flats in a weekend due to BFG build tags! Once I cleaned the inside of the tyres properly and fitted HD inner tubes I did countless thousands of miles with no problems, today I’m older and maybe not as brave.
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45 minutes ago, muddy said:
You can buy wide standard looking wheels now, and also I would reccamend selling your 'expensive' wheels and buying some dirt cheap tubuless ones from a later defender and banding these given the banding costs will be the same....
Thanks for the reply, that does make sense although if you can buy wide standard looking wheels then I guess my “expensive“ wheels are no longer “expensive“ 🙂
I suppose I could just put tubed tires on the rims and I’ve done with it, but I looked recently for a tyre Similar to an Avon range master and I nearly fell through the floor at the price.
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Hi, long time since I was here, been a funny few years hasn’t it?
Well the 90 passed its annual test this week, 235 miles since this time last year….
I have 5 of the aforementioned ANR1534 wheels , I always wanted a set of zu alloys on my 90 which I eventually bought and fitted Goodrich AT and they looked great….. but after a while I’m falling out of love with them (they seem a bit less utilitarian to me now) so I’m looking at my steel wheels again.
has anyone had them banded , if that’s the correct term, anyway made them suitable for tubeless tyres?
I have seen them advertised for rather a lot of money in the past but that may not be the case today so just weighing up options really?
TIA
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Just for information, I used what Leyland call 'trade HD' floor paint in my workshop, to be honest it hasn't stood the test of time well at all. When I do it again I'll use a two pack
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I can’t say if this is your problem without looking but .... to change the oil filter it’s a lot easier if you remove the air pipe that is in the way, when you re fit the old hose it’s a bit of a fiddle and after 10 years the pipes are often a bit crabby
the oil in the pipes can leak out and that’s where they often drip.
HTH
Regards Paul
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seems to be a bit of conflicting information out on the 'tinterweb , workshop manual download suggests the drive bolt on the front shaft should be 45Nm + 80 degrees, is there any update or other information contradicting this info?
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aha! but this one has its own issues 🙂 the shaft will not come out of the hub, eventually gave in and took the whole lot off and put it in the press - it just bent the hub knuckle casting! so a new casting required, never seen one so stuck. No sign of heat damage but it will not shift.
Anyway its all stripped and new bits will be here next week 🙂
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Standing in the auction crowd and this elderly FL2 comes through
i stuck my my hand up and it’s mine, drove it home today - it definitely needs a driveshaft and probably a steering pump...
apart from that that it goes well, well the 90 is so reliable now I needed a project 😀
shaft will be here tomorrow morning and assuming it no longer feels like driving a massage chair I’ll look at the pump.
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apologies if this has been seen before, sent to me just now it made me smile.
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Hindsight is a wonderful thing, if I'd known just how little I'd use my 90 for long journeys I'd have fitted a four cylinder petrol instead of the tdi, at the mileage I'm doing it would only be costing me a few quid a year more to run ...
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My 300tdi's with a mixture of with/without were all commercial SVO builds and IME that means made of whatever bits were lying around - so I agree not the best data to work with.
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53 minutes ago, Snagger said:
(snip) so LR only fitted these things to the more refined vehicles.
Or... LR only fitted these to vehicles they were trying to make more refined :-)
The timing of the 300TDi / R380 seems about right, we bought a few Discoveries at about that changeover and from new only some were fitted with the damper, we had two vehicles retrofitted with them and the drivers stated that they were better with them. (I've still got the number plates for one of them in the shed somewhere, it ended its life upside down after some spirited action)
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Its hard to say without insider information, I'm sure LR fitted them for a reason BUT as I said - on my 90 I can't feel the slightest difference.
The addition happened when Discoveries etc were making that transition from semi agricultural work vehicles to fashion accessories where the users demanded a bit of refinement.
Possibly softer spring rates / heavier engines / softer users / alloy wheels etc meant the damper was more significant ?
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11 hours ago, monkie said:
100% agree. There are lots of promising nuclear technologies that would solve the problem worldwide and allow us to stop wasting time and money on wind/solar which require gas as a backup. This is why I get quite angry about various governments forcing us through taxes and wasteful scrappage schemes to go down a particular route while they simultaneously do next to nothing about the above suggestion which would fix the problem long term.
politicians and policy deciders depend on popularity to remain in office, most have little 'real' knowledge of the policies they steer. This means they generally choose the popular direction. Standing tall and saying 'hang on, this doesn't seem correct' is unpopular, particularly with a society that has been told a lot of nonsense by the press and media.
Someone earlier mentioned that solar / wind energy wasn't significant in the UK, if we cast our minds back just a few short months to a weather event which the press called 'the beast from the east' its worth remembering that at that time our power network generation was at 100% load, it wasn't nearly at full capacity it was at almost 50GW demand. That included almost 25% of it being generated from wind and solar. The bought in from abroad pipes were at maximum.
If at that time there had been no wind there would have been people without lights.
Adding the charging of electric cars to that without major improvements to the generation network... yep that's going to be fine.
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I fitted mine to the 90 and noticed no difference whatsoever.
Why were they fitted, dunno but when I was driving a Discovery 1 as a company car it seemed to make a difference under braking at motorway speeds, if when braking the things hit bumps the front axle shuddered and bounced, those with the damper didn't do it.
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1 hour ago, CwazyWabbit said:
Anybody mention about electric car fires and the difficulties in extinguishing them yet? (Lithium ones as opposed to NiMH)
I'm curious as to whether this will become a problem or if it is just more noise.....
The fire issue was sufficiently real for all Tesla cars to be banned from underground car parks in Oslo, I'm not sure if it was the entirety of Norway or just some local fad and this was in 2013,. Not sure if it still the case but I know their fire fighters were told not to attempt to stop them burning but to concentrate on limiting collateral damage.
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I suppose there aren't many Marina's Allegro's Escorts Cortinas, Sentinel, Fowlers in general use for regular commuting today - but they are still about preserved and used for pleasure. I think there will still be room for old restored classics which will include our Land Rover products. The use of the Diesel Land Rover for commercial use will change and evolve with trends, business will invest in newer technology and pass its cost on to its customers, individuals will struggle through as we always have to.
Reducing the number of diesels on the road is probably a good initiative based on what the experts tell us today. If I live long enough I'm sure that I will read that past experts were wrong and stupid and we should all be changing to a new technology to prevent thousands of premature deaths because of our past mistakes.
It would be useful to start lobbying government to provision in legislation for the continued preservation and use of our motoring heritage, before its too late.
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The lights often use PWM to control the brightness / heat, this is effectively switching the light on and off many times a second. The transition between on and off is very short and the LED is a none linear device so there is the mechanism to create harmonics of that switching period well into the VHF radio spectrum.
I have a worklight on the 90 that creates noise well into the UHF spectrum, I rarely use it but its overdue replacement.... Chinese E-bay specials :-(
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There is something else to check, from what you have said, you have tried a few antennas and the results are similar but it was working before.
Is it possible that part of your re chassis work involved other changes? did you replace any lights with LED, have you fitted anything like a usb charger, some electrical accessories can create local noise which interferes with the radio reception. Things like power adapters for satnavs / phone chargers are all prime candidates.
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I'll be sending some feedback to my AM, it's a good outcome.
ANR1534
in International Forum
Posted
Thanks for the info Daan and all the other people who have taken the time to comment and advise, I'm half tempted to sell on the old rims rather than have them modified. Beading.. thats actually the term I was looking for rather than banding.
I am a bit concerned about running on modified wheels.. not for any practical reason as I've run substantially modified vehicles forever and if modifications are done professionally and with consideration to the whole vehicle its fine. OTOH reversing the rims on minis wasn't too hard and it was successful back in the late 70's but In this ever litigious society it would be hard to feel comfortable doing so today 🙂
I think I'll get the white lettering put on the inside of my ZU's first and take it from there.
Again, thanks for the info and advice.
Paul