GW8IZR

Yes def worth trying , also forgot to note the switching may take 1/2 a second or so once the pot is in the right place so fairly gentle adjustment is in order. Regards Paul

Denso tape is very useful here

If its as you describe the circuit is not "duff" - its working exactly how it should - it does however need adjusting. Step one - Get it back on the bench and set the bench PSU voltage to whatever voltage you want it to opperate at, then turn the pot until it switches. Step two - Now make sure the relay doesn't hold in if you reduce the bench PSU below 13.0V you *may* need to adjust the pot step one and two a few times to get this to work as you want but its straight forward to do. HTH

trolley jack under the diff nose - or if the diff isnt fitted a bit of 3x2 as a lever

Of course the downside of reading this thread is that it made me think "thats a good idea" and my mig is now in bits while I do the same job ;-)

Tank sender normally goes to ground via resitor so above circuit would need a change, you ought to be careful poking 12v into the tank - make sure your circuit limits the current under fault conditions.

If you search ebay for 16A inlet you will find plenty all about same price as above. Another option if it helps.

I bought a Marslands - cant comment on anyone elses but the one in my workshop seems good. Dimensions are spot on and galv is good, I sent a scope in the rails when it arrived and its well covered. Some bloody sharp edges as you might expect. There are a few differences between early chassis and the new Marsland but nothing too dramatic. HTH

I remember doing that under a Bedford TK tank on the M6 in feb 1981....

Girling - its a very simple but clever device and but for a 5/8" bit of rubber mine would be fine ;-)

Hi Ralph, there is nothing complex in the unit and its perfectly serviceable *if* you can get the part. As its been used in many different vehicles its possible someone somewhere has the bits. Regards Paul

Has anyone had luck finding the rubber valve seat 2232660139 from a Girling G-Valve? TIA Regards Paul

Cold chisel, chop the nuts verticaly - they will come off.. In that case the whole lot will lift off through the hole in the inner wing but its right faff cos there is only just enough room. If its all so rusty just chop the bottom clear, set to with a grinder and replace the lot as you prob need to anyway.

All real mechanics should have tool boxes full of bent sawn off and ground down spanners :-)

I change Makita keyless chucks about once a year but the traditional chucks last almost forever.. but the convenience of keyless makes it worth while to me. Like most tools the jaws in the chuck do wear and once you pick up on a drill shank it gets slowly worse. Try a new chuck which will not be expensive - remember the screw in the middle is left hand thread.

Ring Ashcroft, explain what you need and ask for their advice - they have a couple of local places that I'm sure would help. HTH

Sorry that is incorrect.. they are RED/White... mine are now slightly rusty and the red looked a bit orange ;-)

If you mean RRC fronts on the front and rears on the rear then yes - I thought they were too soft. Standard RRC rears on the front of my V8 90 were OK until I hung the Husky on the front. HTH

Yep, I understand .. "normal" meaning for a vehicle of this vintage with the tabs visible from behind the vehicle. Will have to look into that as sometimes the old tub gets a bit scabby round the mounts and the tab covers that up. (I put an alluminium spreader behind it) Anyway a good heads up and another thing to look for. Regards Paul

Now thats a useful bit of info thanks, just about to fit my rear tub and I had assumed it would be possible to fit the tabs in the "normal" position. I can't check from here but are the slots in the top of the x-member not long enough to allow that? (sorry to hijack the thread if the OP has the normal x-member) Regards Paul

(All this is IMVHO and straying far from the original spring rates is a risk so you should take care - but it seems to work for me.) I believe that unless you carry a lot of load all the time the normal setup is over sprung and very under damped. A useful starting point that seems to be a good compromise is 170lb all round, I use Range Rover HD rears which I think were sometimes called "police specification" they are Orange/White - but you do need better dampers with such soft springs on't back. I use Bilsteins set up for a RRC and it did remove a lot of the pitch in the ride. This was with a V8 and a Husky hanging off the front so probably *similar* weight distribution to a TDI etc. HTH Regards Paul

Hmm.. casing in good nick, well its better now I've made a new spring seat bracket and turned the shock mount the right way round, just an oil filler to fit now. As an excersise fair enough but not really good use of my time ;-)

Thanks all, the decision was made a little easier as the n/s calliper was in good condition so I got a single replacement for the o/s. Next time I'll use a Discovery axle but back when I built the vehicle they weren't as easily available as RR bits. Of course chopping up RR and S1's to make CCV's and trialers doesn't seem as sensible today as it did back then.....

Hi Mike, thats correct the 7/16th fastners on the eary axle. Hmm, I could probably ream the holes out but then its a mess every time I need to do this so might as well stay standard. As it happens my local LR place had a caliper so I now have a pair of good imperial units so the axle rebuild can continue. I might look for a discovery axle next time round to make the job simpler. Thanks for the pointer Regards Paul

My 1984 90 has a disc rear axle, when I fitted it in about 1995 I am sure the axle came from a RR. The unions are imperial - time has come to replace the calipers and I've found a few suppliers but I'm wondering - (hoping really) that later defender calipers may fit with metric unions. Anyone know what the compatibility is here. TIA Regards Paul