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GW8IZR

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Everything posted by GW8IZR

  1. What was the restorer thinking - doing a so called nut and bolt restoration, expecting top price - and using tread plate!
  2. Right then, when I re read what I said it might have sounded a bit abrasive :-) my apologies, to be clear when sat at the side of the road with a duff car and no tools I've cleaned a contact with the side of a matchbox! what I should have said is if you have a choice then something less abrasive is much better than emery cloth... Your correct that Aerosol contact cleaner like 'Servisol' etc wont shift the oxide layer and in this kind of application is not much use but as a water displacement after cleaning the contact it will help reduce oxidisation, the manufacturer will have plated the contact with something akin to tin and often cleaning an oxidised contact that thin plate will be removed - the contact will now work but the corrosion resistance will be degraded. A squirt of switch cleaner or a smear of Vaseline etc will often be advantageous. I have used a chemical cleanser which I imported from America to brighten contacts and it worked well but I ran out of it many years ago and cant recall the name but it was very similar to Goddards silver dip used in jewellery work. Again very thorough cleaning afterwards with a solvent like IPA is essential. The pencil brush is fantastic - I first started using it as pretty much the only certified tool for cleaning relay contacts in the late 70's - it will whip of oxide and tarnish and leave a very fine surface, now its not perfect and of course it will also damage the plating if over used. The tiny fragments of fibreglass do stick in your fingers and hurt like '****' and the oxide deposits from the contacts can act as a semiconductor so cleaning the dust away properly is important in some cases. Often to clean contacts such as typical LR electrics we need nothing more abrasive than a piece of cardboard HTH
  3. These are very useful for gp contact cleaning - I wouldn't be using emery cloth or anything so abrasive on contacts of any sort. http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-4mm-glass-fibre-scratch/dp/1421553?mckv=PLjtKv1D_dc|pcrid|78108292509|&gross_price=true&CATCI=pla-131288359509&CAAGID=14989780989&CMP=KNC-GUK-GEN-SHOPPING-DURATOOL&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CICV-MOkgNMCFcG7GwodefECPA&DM_PersistentCookieCreated=true&CAWELAID=120173390000047499 HTH
  4. Either way is similarly complex, on a four poster I think dropping the box is a lot easier, if you only have a crane its more a 50/50 choice. I would make a judgement call based on the state of the vehicle and any other work I wanted to do at the same time. On a 1984, possibly footwells to do etc... HTH
  5. I wouldn't bother much with ebay, they are as cheap and often cheaper direct from the supplier. No affinity with apart from being a satisfied customer but try Alison Handling https://www.alisonhandling.com/ Even if you dont buy anything from them the website has some good storage ideas.
  6. Its brilliant, its good to see people still have humour and take the trouble to give others a laugh - one of the sellers 'other items' is particularly funny and I recall one apprentice at the loco works in 1970 (ish) being sent for a can of that stuff :-)
  7. shoot me for a missed comma ... To be honest the rules are contradictory anyway, rather than the heavy handed approach here, mods could have simply asked Graham quietly to stick to forum rules and add OT to the title (or done it themselves) which would have avoided all the unpleasantness that followed.
  8. To be honest the rules are contradictory anyway, rather than the heavy handed approach here mods could have simply asked Graham quietly to stick to forum rules and add OT to the title (or done it themselves) which would have avoided all the unpleasantness that followed. Quote: Rules and regulations Rules and regulations have deliberately been kept simple and have been left to 'common sense' (snip) As this is a Land Rover forum members are expected to keep the majority of their posts about Land Rovers or subjects closely associated with them, their use, repair or modification. Some off topic posts are acceptable but in this case the post title should begin with the letters 'OT' as an indication that they are not Land Rover related.(snip)
  9. I reckon this is at least as important as height, its a complete pain when trying to squeeze past the open doors when working from engine bay to cab At the end of the day we use what space we have but if possible... wider is better
  10. Perhaps think about an older dog, many in the rescues and homes that need and deserve the good home you can give. Admitted some of the rescue places make you jump endless hurdles to prove you can do what you have been doing for 17 years... but once through that, a rescue is a rewarding and sometimes challenging venture. HTH
  11. I'm sorry Graham, its a terrible time to endure. At times doing the right thing is the hardest decision.
  12. Your right Mike, my reply was too generic to cover all variants and I hadn't thought of early Discovery bits, but I thought it worth mentioning that there were some subtle differences to catch out the OP when he is collecting the bits together. Its always a challenge when the vehicle is made from bits ( much like most including mine ) and keeping a diary of what is fitted helps when you have to replace bits later down the line. HTH
  13. Yes you are correct its the ratio that matters. For example I currently have a 10 spline ATB diff in the back of mine and an open 24 spline front, Your standard diffs from a coil sprung vehicle should be 3.54:1 ratio, the only minor difference is a Discovery 1 rear diff has a three bolt prop flange compared to the 'normal' four bolt flange. You can swap the flange if your donor diff dosen't match the prop. HTH
  14. I think fitting a Discovery axle might be the best way if you want to use D1 alloys, you will need to swap the front axle control arms as well as the width is different. There are alloys that will fit the early axles, the old three spoke wheels from a range rover should fit or more recent ZU type alloys fit as they don't cover the drive members. Its very common to swap in D1 axles to get disc brakes at the rear but just be careful about the swapping of too many parts from the original, if its a substantial rebuild you might want to think about whether it can retain its ID... a whole other story :-) HTH
  15. You need to be quite careful here as with some combinations the alloys can foul on the drive member before the mounting face of the alloy sits flat on the mounting face of the hub, effectively the wheel is not clamped flat to the hub, if this is what you are experiencing its very dangerous. As an example I know Discovery 1 alloys will not fit onto early 90/110 front axles, Discovery axles have a much flatter drive member to reduce the protrusion , nor will those wheels fit on very early range rover rear axles. Stick some pictures up and that will help clarify what your trying to fit to what, as a quick test put some copper slip grease on the mating surfaces and fit the wheel, then remove it and look to see the grease has evidence of a proper fit. HTH
  16. What did the people who carried out the tracking say about it? If it was fine when they tracked it and its moving about now then something has broken/shifted and it should be fairly simple to see what. I think I would start by removing the probably bent road wheels, then stick a dti on the brake disk (or improvise an indicator with a stick and weight) and see if there is any run out on the disk and wheel face, if that's in spec it has to be either the wheel is bent or possibly something like wheel spacers coming loose - Its also worth considering that some road wheels dont fit all axles properly, if the hubs are stopping the wheel seating properly that would cause the run out. HTH
  17. Its a resistor, it's in parallel with the warning light so that the failure of the charge warning light on the dash doesn't stop the alternator getting excited. on TDI's only a tiny amount of current is needed to hold the fuel solenoid open once its been activated. On TDI conversions using the old NA Di or 4cyl petrol wiring the combination of the resistor and charge indicator current is often enough to hold it open when you turn the key to position zero. This can be resolved by fitting a diode capable of handling a few amps and with a PIV of more than about 50V in series with the excite wire, a 1N5401 will do the job. A disadvantage / unintended consequence of fitting the diode is that there is a bit of volts drop and sometimes a blip of accelerator is needed to get the alternator going. HTH
  18. Voice of reason for sure.. until 'we' know what the press and environmental pressure groups railroad through by bullying witless politicians there isn't a lot to be done with confidence.
  19. Yes, 'er brother has the 2.2 6sp manual and it seems to run on fresh air! I had thought of putting a 2.5 / 2.25 petrol back into my 90 as its a very early one and might be nice if it were original(ish) - I do about 1000 miles a year so consumption isnt realy a consideration.... I have struggled to find an engine, I suspect there are a few laying in sheds 'in case' and lots went when the scrap metal price was high.
  20. And that would be correct, with test and sorted it would be worth a bit more. I seem to find people want a ticket so they get twelve months to use it and sort anything else out. GL
  21. I reckon the registration process is putting people off (even though its a piece of cake to do) - I reckon you should invest the time to test it and get it back on UK plates and you would easily recoup the effort. I also think making a bit more effort getting the photos exposed properly would help. HTH
  22. The best thing I ever did was remove the PO's bucket seats and harnesses .. fitting proper seats and inertia reel belts was a transformation. Used on some pretty demanding lanes I never felt inappropriately strapped in
  23. nice honest sounding advert for a change. Cant help but think 'just needs wiring' is a bit optimistic but I bet it sounds fantastic :-)
  24. Here many things have and will increase in price, not always due to an increased cost.. Gotta love opportunists..:-(
  25. I made up a lever out of 25mm galv conduit - imagine a simple lever with two forks, position the wheel near the hub by rolling into place, put the fork under the tread and just lean back the handle. The wheel goes up / down and when its in place just shove it on the studs. It worked well on small truck / tractor tyres and doesn't rely on a smooth surface like something with wheels would. If I was making one today I'd add a few braces but the thing worked well enough
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