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StevenA

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by StevenA

  1. Not like that! I fitted an R380 from a written off D2 to my TDI300 (after changing the input shaft), and there was no noticeable play. That being said, the bearings changed considerably between the later and earlier versions, but the original R380 I replaced was not that bad either.
  2. I had this a couple of years ago driving down through France in the summer - turned out it was the radiator (corroded fins + blockages). After changing the radiator, runs like a dream at just below mid point regardless of weather, load etc
  3. Just for info, these studs aren't up to much - I replaced mine when I did the head and a brand new one sheared off below the recommended torque! Torque these things with care!
  4. You are changing a critical part of the steering geometry with a 2" lift - how much is clearly a question for debate. When I did mine, I used castor correction arms and double cardan front prop and the result, even with 235/85 tyres (MT BF), was great. I have done 3 round trips to the South of France from Aberdeen without the slightest question as to steering at motorway speeds, and have also spent considerable time offroading in Scottish Peat and Spanish Sand. If you want good all round performance, I would recommend going for some form of castor correction, and can say that the route I chose has not disappointed!
  5. The end of the spill line is blanked off, although it does not look obvious without closer inspection - there is no pipe to go here - the return is via the injection pump. The pipe that you have found sounds like the breather pipe from the transfer or gear box and should end in a curve behind the engine.
  6. Just changed mine. Land rover have upgraded (?) both the seal and the gasket. The new seal housing no longer has any rubber in the mating surface to the block, and the new gasket is a pressed aluminium with a crescent in the bottom that flattens as you tighten (instead of a synthetic card type) - can't remember part nos but microcat lists them. Given the form of the seal housing, it would be difficult to seal with RTV as its not a plane flat mating surface. Hope that helps
  7. Thanks for the confirmation. I'm not sure that I would agree about not resetting the preload without changing the bearings - if its too low then it will accelerate wear on the ring and pinion - however I'm changing all the bearings this weekend so not an issue. After talking with one of the rebuild shops, it seems that correctly set up diffs are really tight at the pinion, and so an indication of correct preload can be had even with the seal in (my seal was dragging max 0.5 kg as that was the total) as the total drag is so much.
  8. Suggest you check the sender fuel pipe connections while you are there - mud gets trapped around them and they corrode and eventually leak. May be wise to change while the floor is out (although you will probably have to change the whole unit)
  9. Looks great! What make are the wheel arch flares - look a really good job?
  10. wasn't broke, so decided to fix it! Wanted to check the condition of my diffs. After reading the workshop manual, took it all apart and then started the rebuild. First thing on the list the pinion bearing preload. As I don't have a dial torque wrench, decided to convert the required torque (1.5Nm) into an equivalent torque at the flange. As the flange is 4cm (0.04m) from the pinion axe, 1.5 nm is equivalent to 38N at 4cm is equivalent to (aprox) 4kg pull. This seems a lot. Then I thought of the swivels where the preload is 1.46kg at the track rod which is roughly three times the distance from the pivot point - ie about the same. Can anyone confirm (or not) that a correctly set up diff pinion requires 4kg pull at a hole in the flange after stiction, or that a correctly set up pinion is very stiff when turned by hand? Seems very tight to me but then there are some pretty hefty forces against the ring. BTW - the actual pull is around 0.5 kg, but thats after 100k miles so I would expect it to be lower. Any help, answers or corrections to schoolboy physics appreciated.
  11. Since I bought my 300Tdi, it has always had an annoying knock in the steering column when switching from turning right to left or vice versa. It was minor, but as felt through the steering wheel, unsettling. It was definitely in the upper steering column, and having passed 2 MOT's, obviously not an issue for the testers. After much searching, the only reference I found to steering column repair, was for defenders, or for a 200tdi, and this referred to changing sheer pins which I did not want to do for safety. Resigned to changing it, I found that unfortunately they are no longer available, so I pulled one from a wrecked Disco that had been hit side on, after verifying that it did not have the problem. After changing it I checked the old one, and here are my findings which may be of use to someone else (sorry no photos) The column is actually very repairable. The actual shaft is in 3 parts, with a UJ between the top (steering wheel end) two. The bottom two sections are joined by two injected nylon sheer pins. These sections are ovoid with two flats, and the top most part fits inside the lower one, the shape giving rotational fit, and the sheer pins giving longitudinal fit. The rotational fit was where the problem was, as the outer part is lightly crimped on the inner part at the very end, and this one was just not crimped enough - there was no wear or rust, just a weak crimp - 2 minutes in the vice with a bit of pressure and good as new! To take apart, simply undo the lower (exposed) UJ bolt and gently pull the bottom 2 parts out as one. There is a roller bearing in the bottom that can now be changed if needed. The top part is held by a badly fitting circlip, and can be pulled through its bearing, once this is removed. This allows access to the top UJ bolt and separation of that from the shaft. The top bearing could now be also changed. None of this places any stress on the nylon sheer pins between the lower two parts, which there is no reason to touch or disassemble. So this unserviceable part is actually very serviceable and without compromising its safety. I did not have to change either of the bearings or the UJ, but the bearings are probably easily found. The UJ is probably harder to replace, but is well protected and so probably rarely goes. Hope this may be of use to someone with similar problems. Usual disclaimer - servicing unservicable parts, particularly on the steering, has to be done with care and attention to detail. It worked for me but I make no guarantees or recommendations to anyone else and following these instructions is at your own risk.
  12. Instead of just changing the wedge, get a whole new assembly for a Freelander - all plastic but has two rubber guide wheels and really holds the door in place. There was a LR Tech Note somewhere that recommended this and it works a treat. From memory, you also need to change the screws.
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