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Quagmire

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About Quagmire

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    Surrey/Hampshire border

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  1. If you fit later 10 bolt heads that are intended for composite gaskets, but use a tin gasket intended for the earlier 14 bolt heads, you will increase compression slightly. However, then you have to shim the rocker pedestals or get adjustable pushrods to get the valve gear right. I think composite heads have a volume of 28cc, and the tin ones are 36cc. In fact that info is probably contained somewhere in this thread that is a day older than god, on one of the pages before the handbags were deployed. So to do it properly, yes you should really be changing pistons as Garry has said above. Have a browse of v8forum.co.uk as it has come up plenty of times on there.
  2. Duralac is great stuff, although the tin I have is green. Definitely allows stubborn bolts to come undone later with ease. Rv8 waterpump bolts for example!
  3. Quagmire

    Raise V8 CR

    I run megasquirt on my 3.5 (9.35:1 cr) powered 90, and get 21-22mpg consistently. The joy of EFI is that you can have both power and economy. How much of the latter you get is down to your right foot...
  4. uodate- Took the shifter mech off and had a fiddle about shifting directly, still the same... Arse.
  5. Good thinking! I wonder if I removed the shifter mech and tried to manipulate it manually whether it would still sound the same? Something to try for sure. thanks
  6. Hi guys, Thought i'd post here as not only is the LT77 something us LR owners are familiar with, but I know a lot of you don't own just LR products and are also into other BL derived things too. I have a Rover 3500s, and the original 4 speed has recently come to the end of its life, i thought i would take the opportunity to fit a 5 speed from an SD1. I've had this LT77 sat on the floor of the garage for a few years now, and when I bought it I thought I had checked all gears selected but obviously not...😡 Last night I setup the shifter mechanism properly, which meant that reverse is now easier to select. On turning the box I get a graunchy/rattling noise when in reverse, sounds almost like two gears contacting each other or something. All other gears sound smooth and engage perfectly fine. if i've done this right there should a link below to a (bad) video I took last night: LT77 reverse noise Any ideas on what it might be would be appreciated! My next step is to clear out the garage, build a workbench to get the thing on and have a look inside. Thats going to take a while though, so any suggestions people have would at least give me a path to go down when I get to that point. Cheers
  7. Hi guys, I am putting together a wingtop entry snorkel that enters the engine bay through the blanking plate on the drivers side that mirrors the heater intake. Looking at choices of routing once through the wing I am fairly restricted, I have a brake servo and pipes in the way and the coolant expansion tank too (this is in a old 90 which started as a 2.25 petrol, now a v8). Does anyone have pictures of how the official military gear made the connection from airbox to wingtop? Or the mantec one that used to be in production? There are plenty of pics on the web for the external piping, but none in the engine bay. Thanks!
  8. I don't usually think this when reading threads on lr4x4, but this time I will say there's a lot of people riding around on high horses and giving naff advice. In my experience K-seal doesn't clog. Unless your chucking it into some knackered old hack to start with. I had a leaky core plug I couldnt get round to sorting for a bit. K-seal fixed the leak, rad still clear afterwards. I even know the water ways etc in the engine were good and clear afterwards as when I did my chassis swap I finally got round to pulling all the core plugs and replacing them while it was easy. Stay away from the other goo-like ones and you'll be fine. (I have no affiliation with K-seal, just a happy customer)
  9. K-seal is good, it doesn't fill your cooling system with goo like rad weld does. It's strange stuff, like a thin liquid with copper coloured flecks in it...
  10. If you want to use genuine Bosch I'd look at picking up a couple of used sets of volvo/Saab/anything boosted injectors off ebay and getting them refurbed. You'd need to research and find some with suitable flow rate, but they should be in the right ballpark. Just check that they have the right notches at the top for the clips that retain them into the fuel rail, some ev6 Injectors don't have them.
  11. Drill them out and helicoil is an option. I did this on the manifolds on my 90. You'd have to track down some Imperial helicoils with the correct thread for the standard series studs or go metric and move to m8 threaded studs used in more recent LR products
  12. MS3 overall external wiring schematic is at page 17 of 222 here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3baseV30_Hardware-1.5.pdf/MS3baseV30_Hardware-1.5.html EDIS specific details are on page 126, as said above it will be as easy to wire as MJ. Manual states that the "IGN" (pin 36) on the DB37 goes to the EDIS SAW connection, and pin 24 of the DB37 connects to the PIP line.
  13. I use Tunerstudio too, by far the best tool I also have MsDroid on my phone (which the screenshots were from) which is pretty handy for when I don't have my laptop with me.
  14. Are you using regular MS2 or MS2/Extra? I don't think I have come across that particular correction curve.... As for startup, both mine start and continue to run without dying, settings as below. They are both 3.5's so may differ slightly, but hopefully not too much as MS2 uses %'s of fuel rather than absolute pw values. Note that my ASE curve looks a bit weird as it has a kink in it from where I haven't tuned it below ~20 degrees...
  15. Rob, Just having upgraded the MS in my 90 to MS2 last week I am revisiting some of the tune settings. This evening I noticed fluctuations in AFR myself (a little lean) whilst sat in traffic. I've just looked again and the setting I used on the P6 to iron this out was the "MAT/CLT correction" curve.
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