Quagmire

Thanks Fridge!

Looks very nice!

14cux valve is a standalone part and similar valves were used in many other applications, Saab's, Volvo's, Porsches etc. I seem to recall there are some versions with slightly different inlet/outlet pipe configurations which could be handy. Edit- Google Bosch 0 280 140 501 and you'll get one with the ports in line with each other rather than at 90 degrees as an example.

*cracks out popcorn* this could be great! Carry on.

Dreadful aero - yes. Heavier? Probably not.

The T16 lightweight quoted above is my brothers - it is extremely rapid!

I use bilt hamber "dynax ub" it comes in black or clear, I have used the black in aerosol form on my road car and have been very happy with it. It gives a thin waxy film which adheres nicely but can be wiped off easily with a rag and some white spirit. It stays soft and seems to protect against stone chips pretty well.

Just to make one point totally clear (and it may be clear to the OP, but it's not totally 100% evident from the thread). EGO Control (or Closed loop) is used so that the the ECU can trim the fuelling as needed on the fly. It doesn't make any changes to any of the VE tables when it is doing this, so in this regard you can have a tune that is slightly off, but the EGO is able to compensate for it, giving you fuelling that consistently hits the target AFR. This is especially useful when you start getting into the effects of air temp (and heat soak) on tuning, but that's for a bit further down the road... VE analyse (Or VE Analyse Live "VEAL") is when you have the laptop plugged in and logging for Tunerstudio to analyse later, or in the case of VEAL the laptop analyses on the fly. This process does correct/adjust your VE tables and the changes will be saved to the ECU if you burn the changes before shutdown. To disable closed loop EGO i usually just set the authority to 0%. I am very much a wideband tuning person - my old LC1 is still working after something like 9 years in my road car, however i have a Spartan 2 from 14point7.com fitted to my 90, and when the LC1 dies the P6 will be fitted with the same. That said, as Fridge pointed out above you can just tune like people would have done with carbs years ago, trust what your bum is telling you in the seat and what your nose says about the exhaust, how does the engine respond and sound when making various changes? It's perhaps a bit more trial and error, but can still work.

Thanks Western! Legend as always 😎

Hi guys, Can any body advise on what the torque value should be for the bolts that secure the "Tie bar" to the bottom of the steering box? I have looked and can't seem to find anything relevant in the manuals (probably just me being dense though ). If it makes any difference this is for the Gemmer manual steering box that came originally fitted to my 90 which is of B-registration vintage. Many thanks!

I have to do the very same thing to mine! Let us know how you get on 😊

The 2wd lt77 bellhousings are a fair bit shorter than the 4wd application ones. The 2wd ones are easy to identify as they have two humps, which the LR bellhousings don't have.

Based on your other post it sounds like you are running hotwire injection? If so then there is a diagnostic manual on here you can follow through (i think). Only real way to tell whats going on is to stick a wideband lambda sensor on it and see whats coming out the exhaust, or go to a garage and see if they will let you have a quick sniff with their kit.

I thought the OP was talking about swapping the entire engine, and then fitting the original ancillaries?

Blimey thats well out!