Quagmire

Rob, Just having upgraded the MS in my 90 to MS2 last week I am revisiting some of the tune settings. This evening I noticed fluctuations in AFR myself (a little lean) whilst sat in traffic. I've just looked again and the setting I used on the P6 to iron this out was the "MAT/CLT correction" curve.

Rob, if you are using ms1 then this might help- it did on mine: http://www.mez.co.uk/ms15-new.html If it's MS2 then Google "coolant corrected air density" this helped massively on my other one.

When fitting efi to my P6 I used a cylindrical facet (which the factory fitted one off my 90) a small swirl pot from obp, and an in-line pump followed by an efi filter. This is a lot cheaper than the nice internally pumped swirl pots that fridge mentions but is a heck of a lot more plumbing (looks messy) and general stuff to find a home for!

Congrats on the MOT! Very well done!

Yeah, agree that mine is definitely an earth issue. If/when other things stop breaking/falling off etc I *might* get round to looking at it... 😂

My 90 does exactly this, often (but not always) when I turn the heater on the temp gauge will go to the red. To check the temp I have to turn off the heater momentarily 😂

Best engine thread? *Runs for cover* 😵

I run a Spartan 2 in both my rv8 vehicles, this uses the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor which is a bit more robust than the earlier 4.2 version. They are both used as my dailies (the 90 is my winter car, saving the P6 for when there is no salt about) and I have only had one sensor failure between them over the years. I'd be tempted to write off your dead WB to bad luck and just fit another.

I have a 4.6 plenum and manifold on my 3.5 because I like the neater stepper valve arrangement. Pretty sure I kept the flapper ram housing because I was being lazy and didn't want to swap all the threaded connections over for vacuum takeoffs for map sensor, fuel rail, brake servo etc when I performed the swap from full flapper arrangement. I *think* I read somewhere that the 4.6 trumpets are closer to the top of the plenum to cause faster airflow at lower engine speeds and increase torque, but I could be wrong about that, and have never compared myself to validate this.

I'd not bother with closed loop idle, just use it for warmup only. Unless you have a rock solid idle from the ve table and spark tables alone you won't get good results with closed loop anyway. There's a fair few posts and articles around the internet on how to get a stable idle, here's one: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/idle-tuning-megasquirt/

Love a good helicoil, did the downpipe studs on my V8 manifolds- very satisfying to have a nice new thread that is stronger than the original too!

What happened to the Puma engine?

I seem to remember that the stepper allows air from a port coming in from the main throat of the plenum (concentric to the stepper hole) to take a 90 degree turn through a small port on the inboard side. You'll need to jam something in to block both holes- I think I wrapped a drill bit in insulation tape until it was a snug fit when I set my base idle. This was all quite a while ago though so I may be talking total piffle.

Thanks Fridge!

Looks very nice!