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About Quagmire

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    Old Hand

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    Surrey/Hampshire border

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  1. Amazing thread revival! White letters out, that's what I had with my old BFGs
  2. 3.5 v8 8.13:1 compression test

    That looks like a P6 filter can sure enough - here's the one that used to be on my P6 for comparison (it's been EFI'd for a while): Never had any issues with running the same setup on my 90 either.
  3. 3.5 v8 8.13:1 compression test

    The P6 one is round in cross section, the Range rovers had one very similar but flatter and more oval shaped in cross section - the paper filter elements are the same as far as i know. Proper carbed Defender v8's have the carbs connected to a metal t-piece that then connects to a huge dustbin sized filter which only has a single outlet on the clean side.
  4. 3.5 v8 8.13:1 compression test

    I'd be wary of RPI, general consensus on the internet is that they will often flog you a Mallory distributor whether you need one or not. Try v8tuner or v8developments for parts and advice, they get much better reviews from people! Before spending loads of cash check through all the basics. High idle could be badly set carbs, or an air leak. Having no power could be lean mixture, which again *could* be related to an airleak. Doug's suggestion on seeing what the choke does is a good one. The misfire while it's warming up, is it a light miss or more like it's running a few cylinders down? Can you pinpoint if it's a specific cylinder/s?
  5. MS3X - Thor Fuel Pressure

    Older 90's BMW's have the reg built into the filter, so you have just a single line running forward to the engine bay. This would work. Try googling for e39 fuel filters... The plus with this setup is that it's cheap for OEM quality parts, and the fpr should be at the right pressure for the ev6 injectors.
  6. If it helps reduce the frost levels have a gander at the kit prices on diyautotune.com - you can get an MS2 kit for around £220, so call it ~£250 shipped and taxed. It's not hard to build one, just a bit tedious at times!
  7. Tacho issues

    Seems like you are making progress!
  8. Tacho issues

    Richard, it looks to me like you should be able to take a +12v feed, connect that to one leg of your relay coil, and connect the other leg to the wire that has been added to your MS, then you connect the old white/black wire that used to connect to the coil negative to the same place.
  9. Tacho issues

    Ok so it looks like they have added it to use pin js3, where does the orange wire connect to, it looks like one of the spare output pins under the map sensor? Do your tach settings in Tunerstudio show js3 as the output pin?
  10. Tacho issues

    Options 3, 4, 6 and 7 are not required - I also have a P6 like Quattro running MS2 and EDIS and my tach works fine with the relay method. These suppliers need to man up and support their client. Richard - in the meantime can you post up some pictures of both sides of your MS PCB? Then people on here can take a peek at what has been done modification wise and possibly advise.
  11. Tacho issues

    Hey Quattro - you'll get there! These things can be a right pain in the bum sometimes. The transistor legs will be arranged as below depending on how it is packaged: I don't think the wattage of the 1k resistor is critical at all - there should be next to no current going through it, and yes 0v is earth. I should say that it's worth leaving the relay intact at first, that way you can hear it buzzing as it is rapidly powered on and off. Then you know that your source of tach signal is at least doing something. Once you are happy that everything is working, you can cut the relay open and remove the contacts, leaving just the coil.
  12. Tacho issues

    Sorry! I should have been a bit more precise with my link- it took you to the section on tach out in the msextra manual, which covers all the methods of generating a tach signal. I used a relay coil to emulate the old ignition coil, which is the third diagram down:
  13. Tacho issues

    Not sure what's going on but I use the tach out circuit to drive a relay with its guts removed to leave just the coil as per here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Hardware.htm#tachoout Its dead accurate!
  14. It won't just be the front wheels that slip on road- i can get 4 wheel wheelspin in my 90 and that's just with my little Rover 3.5! When this happens the whole vehicle tends to start to bounce up and down as wheels spin/grip/spin/grip - when this happens it can't be doing anything any good at all... I hate to think how much the halfshafts are twisting in this scenario. I think the result withe the 6.3 will be spin/grip/*pop* instead. I do like the noise of the 6.3 though - it sounds evil. If you do carry on with the conversion please post it up! Good luck