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About Quagmire

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    Old Hand

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    Surrey/Hampshire border

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  1. I have Ms1 and Ms2 in two rv8 powered vehicles, both on v3 boards, I have to say I prefer working with the ms2. Ms2 is needed if you want to drive a stepper air valve. Changing maps is not needed in reality, you just tune one for best power, which will usually also give you best economy if you can control your right foot! You could have a second map doing something silly with overrun fueling to give you some old school pops and bags on lifting off though
  2. Some food for thought in here (if going with the later 4-2-1 cast manifolds):
  3. Very cool!
  4. +1 on this - the problem with MS is that because it is so easy to adjust you never actually finish adjusting everything - my daily has been MS'd for a couple of years now at least and I am still tweaking things here and there occasionally, its almost perfect but there's always room for improvement! Even if the stainless itself doesn't rust usually you get some transfer of steel from the tooling used to form it, this is embedded into the exhaust material and will give the rusty hue.
  5. Good post, should help people - thanks!
  6. You should be able to use the relay or diode method with the tach output (is it the IDM pin?) On the EDIS.
  7. Usual way is either using a bunch of zener diodes, or using the guts of a relay: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#tachoout
  8. Could the "nut" being referred to actually be the union on the fuel rail which you would use to connect the factory pipework to? If you are fitting rubber fuel line with hoseclips then that needs to be removed so that the fuel hose can be pushed on.
  9. On your tps the middle pin should be signal out, one pin will be +5v in (sometimes called Vref) and the other pin will be earth. On MS the Vref comes from pin 24, the middle/signal connection into pin 22. I would make a guess that the Flapper wiring is such that red is Vref, which leaves yellow as earth and green as signal? Bowie or Fridge should be able confirm or deny this!
  10. Honestly, that is oil smoke, nothing else... Sort the breathers so that they are as per the Rave manual and then if no joy do as Bowie says and get a compression tester and rope in a useful friend or neighbour to help you check what kind of values you are getting there. Then you will have some concrete findings to go on and can start ruling things in or out.
  11. Update - neighbours CCTV show it being taken at 10:55 last night (19/03). Not clear enough to see the ballbags who did it though.
  12. Guys, My dad's 110 v8 was stolen this morning from outside my parents house in Weybridge Surrey, sometime before 09:30. The police don't seem to be bothered. The vehicle is a red 110, factory v8, reg as per subject. Vehicle has an unpainted galvanised bulkhead, and unusually the rear cross is also body coloured, so that should make it easy to spot. Body has silver chequer plated wing tops and bonnet. It's running LPG on its original 3.5, sparks driven by Megasquirt, with a bluetooth module fitted and relay board. Inside it has half leather seats under black Exmoor seat covers. Front seats are heated. Please keep your eyes peeled and PM me if you see anything suspicious. I'll add photos when I get home from work. Thanks everyone
  13. And it also depends on how much noise you like- which can be very a subjective thing...
  14. Vapourisation is a common theme that affects v8 powered rover P6's - in this case the cam driven pump has to pull fuel quite a long way forward from the tank, and the fuel line runs along the side of the block just above the sump to the pump so is in a nice warm environment. The theory on the Rover forums is that it was never really a problem back when the cars were new, but that the addition of Ethanol in modern fuels makes it worse. On my car, back when it was carbed I fitted a facet pump to the rear of the car pushing fuel forward to the engine bay(rather than pulling) and deleted the mech pump entirely. I never had any vapourisation issues at all after that. I think having a carb with a return to the tank and an electric pump is the best way to avoid vapourisation - the circulating fuel acts as a coolant for the carb and stops it getting hot enough to vapourise.
  15. This also improves the functionality of any cabin heater arrangement too!