Quagmire

^This is spot on. My LR's are the best tools I own, but also the most fun for me and my young family. They are whatever their owners want or need them to be and that's the appeal of them, and why we have such a wide, varied and therefore interesting community on here. I personally love all the threads where people are doing things just because they want to try, and that they can see some benefits for them at the end of it. Your thread is one of those, and similarly, this one is too for different reasons! Carry on!

I am not sure how the old system worked - but from a quick look around it looks like the ECU took a feed from the coil negative to tell it that the engine was firing. If this is the case you can generate the same signal one of two ways, using a relay to generate a high voltage pulse like this (ignore the fact it is for MS, it will work the same on MJ connected to the appropriate pin): Tach out (MS manual, but principles the same) Or you can do the zener diodes thing from the EDIS coilpacks themselves which is shown at the bottom of the page linked above.

That will be very cool!

Nice one!

Has anyone reported it?

I'd go with what Smallfry says - if you had low/no pressure then the tappets would be noisy, especially if its been stood for a while- mine sounds horrendous for a couple of seconds on starting even after a few weeks of being idle. Fingers crossed its just the switch!

Yeah we all know that's what the great mass of unenlightened people do, but the main reason I tried them is that they actually give much better atomisation than the standard LR ones do. I should also mention that the top half of the injector bodies are red too, which is worth at least another 10bhp... 😄

I used to use the Vectra injectors with good results, but did buy a few of them and flow test on the bench to get a matched set of 8. Most of the tvr forums rate them, and at the time they were dirt cheap. This was on my ickle 3.5, I was surprised that idle was ok as they flow a bit more than standard LR specced injectors.

If you fit later 10 bolt heads that are intended for composite gaskets, but use a tin gasket intended for the earlier 14 bolt heads, you will increase compression slightly. However, then you have to shim the rocker pedestals or get adjustable pushrods to get the valve gear right. I think composite heads have a volume of 28cc, and the tin ones are 36cc. In fact that info is probably contained somewhere in this thread that is a day older than god, on one of the pages before the handbags were deployed. So to do it properly, yes you should really be changing pistons as Garry has said above. Have a browse of v8forum.co.uk as it has come up plenty of times on there.

Duralac is great stuff, although the tin I have is green. Definitely allows stubborn bolts to come undone later with ease. Rv8 waterpump bolts for example!

I run megasquirt on my 3.5 (9.35:1 cr) powered 90, and get 21-22mpg consistently. The joy of EFI is that you can have both power and economy. How much of the latter you get is down to your right foot...

uodate- Took the shifter mech off and had a fiddle about shifting directly, still the same... Arse.

Good thinking! I wonder if I removed the shifter mech and tried to manipulate it manually whether it would still sound the same? Something to try for sure. thanks

Hi guys, Thought i'd post here as not only is the LT77 something us LR owners are familiar with, but I know a lot of you don't own just LR products and are also into other BL derived things too. I have a Rover 3500s, and the original 4 speed has recently come to the end of its life, i thought i would take the opportunity to fit a 5 speed from an SD1. I've had this LT77 sat on the floor of the garage for a few years now, and when I bought it I thought I had checked all gears selected but obviously not...😡 Last night I setup the shifter mechanism properly, which meant that reverse is now easier to select. On turning the box I get a graunchy/rattling noise when in reverse, sounds almost like two gears contacting each other or something. All other gears sound smooth and engage perfectly fine. if i've done this right there should a link below to a (bad) video I took last night: LT77 reverse noise Any ideas on what it might be would be appreciated! My next step is to clear out the garage, build a workbench to get the thing on and have a look inside. Thats going to take a while though, so any suggestions people have would at least give me a path to go down when I get to that point. Cheers

Hi guys, I am putting together a wingtop entry snorkel that enters the engine bay through the blanking plate on the drivers side that mirrors the heater intake. Looking at choices of routing once through the wing I am fairly restricted, I have a brake servo and pipes in the way and the coolant expansion tank too (this is in a old 90 which started as a 2.25 petrol, now a v8). Does anyone have pictures of how the official military gear made the connection from airbox to wingtop? Or the mantec one that used to be in production? There are plenty of pics on the web for the external piping, but none in the engine bay. Thanks!