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About Quagmire

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    Old Hand

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    Surrey/Hampshire border

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  1. Complexity does not necessarily equate to unreliability, lexus for example produce complex vehicles too but with good reputation for reliability.
  2. I think it's fairly standard to retard timing when cranking, it gives the starter an easier time and at that point you just want the thing to light off, not make maximum power.
  3. I do the same as elbekko and put a smidge of black silicone where the corners of the rubber valley end seals meet the head/block interface. I also use a tiny smear of blue hylomar around the coolant ports but that's mainly because my head's weren't treated well in a previous life and are a bit pitted in that region. Never had any valley leaks.
  4. I'd point an infrared temp gun at the manifolds where each exhaust port exits the head and see if you have any major variance in those. That'll show if any particular cylinder is off. If one is, then you can try swapping the injector with another and see if the fault follows it. If it does then you have a bad injector, if not then it's likely to be spark. After spark is ruled out then it's mechanical. But before you get to that it sounds to me like the MAP reading is way too high. At 1200 idle I would expect to see more like 30kPa or less. The 3.5 in my 90 idles at 800rpm and has around
  5. I fitted Michelin latitude cross tyres in 235/85 16 size on mine about six months ago and they have been great. Quiet, improved the ride quality and feel very sure footed in the wet.
  6. I recently fitted the goodridge aluminium hardline to my old rover p6, it worked well although was pretty hard to work to shape even with a bender and the fittings aren't exactly cheap. I now only have short sections of rubber jump hoses at each end of the lines. Was planning to do the same with my 90 as even though the runs are a lot shorter and easier to change when needed, I've had to change the fuel lines a couple of times due to poor quality hose cracking after just a couple of years.
  7. I'm a bit late to this party! My 90 was factory fitted with a 2.25, it was not exactly quick, but it did have that lovely four pot rasp and was super reliable! Generally it was fine, but merging onto motorways was always scary as you needed a nice clear run at it. I swapped it out for a 9.35:1 comp 3.5 which transformed it, and then it was transformed even more when I fitted computer controlled ignition (megajolt). The last and biggest improvement was when I went to fuel injection (MS2). Power was improved, and economy too. In the old days (before the apocalypse) I would commu
  8. I've replied to your query on settings for the stepper but I'd suggest you block it off for the moment until you have got the thing starting and warm idling with no issues. The temptation with MS is to tweak a lot of things at once, but it is better to kind of layer things in one by one until you have everything working in harmony. I tend to go as follows: Cranking settings- car should fire quickly, although it may want to die straight after, this will be adjusted later. Baby the throttle until you get the thing warm, then check timing with a light. With timing confirmed as
  9. Here's what I have on mine, I only use it in warmup mode to keep the revs up on cold mornings.
  10. I've used a couple of my lipo RC car/boat packs in parallel recently to start my old Rover saloon car. I have an xt90 style connector wired to the battery terminals, this branches off to two xt60's with a lipo on each one. I was concerned that the connectors weren't rated anywhere near high enough, but so far no drama. They started the car when it would barely turn over on its own battery.
  11. Most facets (cylindrical and posi-flow style) make a clicking/tapping type noise, which when they are run dry is extremely fast. If you are priming the fuel system after replacing a hose for example you will normally hear it start fast and then slow down as everything primes and it has something to push against. They aren't quiet so if you can't hear anything the pump isn't running!
  12. Here's the Bosch injector spreadsheet that I used: http://www.usrallyteam.com/content/products/injector/Bosch_Injector_data.xls I looked up the injector specs used on the Thor setup (0280155787) - so flow rate, spray pattern and angle etc then filtered the spreadsheet to find injectors that have the same (or similar) characteristics but with the required length. As you probably know, the Thor injectors are quite a bit shorter than the hotwire/Gems ones. The big stumbling block was finding ones that matched the right specs and then had the groove for the metal retaining clip
  13. Yes they do- I'll dig out the part numbers. I found an extremely useful spreadsheet online that detailed all the specs of Bosch ev6 and some later (ev14?) Injectors. I managed to find some that had the same body length as the original hotwire ones, but with the same spray pattern as the shorter Thor ones- they were from a rover road car (black bodies). I also found some that were used in Alfa's (orange bodies) that spray pattern is not technically correct but they seem to work excellently in my Rover P6 anyway! * Excuse the state of the P6, it's been off the road for a year while I have s
  14. I have a couple of sets of these lying about in the garage after having moved onto some other bosch ev6 style injectors. They worked well and made a noticeable difference to the afrs I could idle at etc before getting lumpy compared to the standard Lucas jobbies. They were quite clicky sounding though!
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