Quagmire

Bowie beat me! My 2.25 powered 90 was fitted with the equivalent of one of these from the factory: http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/facet-fuel-pumps/facet-cylindrical-pump-12v-24v/ you only need the basic spec version. The pump has done zillions of miles with no issue, infact it lives on as a low pressure pump feeding the swirl pot on my daily. Here's a copy of the Facet on Paddocks. http://www.paddockspares.com/prc3901-fuel-pump-ecternal-electric.html

Chaps, I was browsing retrorides and came across a mention of this: https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Speeduino It uses (as you might guess) an Arduino as the base, and can be tuned with Tunerstudio. Thoughts?

does it idle ok?

We did the opposite to what is proposed in this thread and fitted the later manifold and carb setup from a "2.3" to the 2.25 in a series. All bolted straight on. The exhaust had to be tickled with the grinder and glued back together with the welder though as it fouled the gearbox mount.

Cutting out as in : Dropping stone dead, and you cannot get above that rev range or as in it is missing heavily but is ok once you get above 2000rpm? If the first i would check silly things like rev limiters, overrun fuel cut etc to make sure that you haven't accidentally set some funny trigger conditions on them. If the second I would check soft rev-limit settings, check your spark and fuel tables still look reasonable. Check your air, coolant and map sensors are giving decent values too.

I do love a 2.25 petrol, and can only imagine that the 2.5 must be the same but better (although i have never come across one in the flesh). I will be watching this with interest - keep posting the updates as they happen *edit - are you dressing it to look like a series 2.25 or the 2.25 (aka 2.3) in the early coilers? My 90 had the 2.25 fitted when I first bought it, was a great engine just a bit slow to pick up speed when merging onto a motorway.

Just a thought - do you have spark on all 8 plugs? I just say this as I have just had another EDIS coilpack failure last week. It doesn't happen often considering I always buy used coils, about 4 failures in the last 9 years, 5 of those years the 90 was my daily. When they go they vary between fine one minute and dead the next or (luckily for me this time) they give an annoying misfire under load but the car will still run. I say lucky as I was driving through the M3 "Smart motorway" upgrade on the way to work. Driving along wondering if you are about to come to a grinding halt with no hard shoulder is no fun at all... *edit - even with outright coilpack failure you will still usually have a running engine, albeit one that sounds like a tractor, will barely rev, and wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding.

Is your MAP hose properly connected? - that will cause a load of fuel to be dumped in if it comes off.

Ignore what I just said, I'm awake now- the factory ones must be narrowband. I was talking about wideband sensors... Normal zirconia sensors don't need anything to drive them and wire straight into the MS on the signal line. Not sure how Titania sensors work, or whether the output they produce will be something MS can deal with/expects. Fridge will probably know! Apologies for the confusion...

In a nutshell, unfortunately i don't think there is a way to make the factory sensors work with MS. The actual lambda sensors aren't driven directly by Megasquirt, rather they have a controller in charge of them, that itself then outputs a signal voltage to the MS unit. As far as I understand, the Lucas setup uses the less common Titania sensors, whereas most these days (including aftermarket types) use zirconia. Have a look at the spartan2 on 14point7.com or the innovate lc2 on the Innovate Motorsports website for more info. I have the spartan2 and the older innovate lc1, both work well and have done so in daily service for quite a few years! Especially the lc1, that's pretty old now...

Great thread - thanks for posting!

I have Ms1 and Ms2 in two rv8 powered vehicles, both on v3 boards, I have to say I prefer working with the ms2. Ms2 is needed if you want to drive a stepper air valve. Changing maps is not needed in reality, you just tune one for best power, which will usually also give you best economy if you can control your right foot! You could have a second map doing something silly with overrun fueling to give you some old school pops and bags on lifting off though

Some food for thought in here (if going with the later 4-2-1 cast manifolds):

Very cool!

+1 on this - the problem with MS is that because it is so easy to adjust you never actually finish adjusting everything - my daily has been MS'd for a couple of years now at least and I am still tweaking things here and there occasionally, its almost perfect but there's always room for improvement! Even if the stainless itself doesn't rust usually you get some transfer of steel from the tooling used to form it, this is embedded into the exhaust material and will give the rusty hue.