Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Quagmire

  1. Hi guys, I am putting together a wingtop entry snorkel that enters the engine bay through the blanking plate on the drivers side that mirrors the heater intake. Looking at choices of routing once through the wing I am fairly restricted, I have a brake servo and pipes in the way and the coolant expansion tank too (this is in a old 90 which started as a 2.25 petrol, now a v8). Does anyone have pictures of how the official military gear made the connection from airbox to wingtop? Or the mantec one that used to be in production? There are plenty of pics on the web for the external piping, but none in the engine bay. Thanks!
  2. I don't usually think this when reading threads on lr4x4, but this time I will say there's a lot of people riding around on high horses and giving naff advice. In my experience K-seal doesn't clog. Unless your chucking it into some knackered old hack to start with. I had a leaky core plug I couldnt get round to sorting for a bit. K-seal fixed the leak, rad still clear afterwards. I even know the water ways etc in the engine were good and clear afterwards as when I did my chassis swap I finally got round to pulling all the core plugs and replacing them while it was easy. Stay away from the other goo-like ones and you'll be fine. (I have no affiliation with K-seal, just a happy customer)
  3. K-seal is good, it doesn't fill your cooling system with goo like rad weld does. It's strange stuff, like a thin liquid with copper coloured flecks in it...
  4. If you want to use genuine Bosch I'd look at picking up a couple of used sets of volvo/Saab/anything boosted injectors off ebay and getting them refurbed. You'd need to research and find some with suitable flow rate, but they should be in the right ballpark. Just check that they have the right notches at the top for the clips that retain them into the fuel rail, some ev6 Injectors don't have them.
  5. Drill them out and helicoil is an option. I did this on the manifolds on my 90. You'd have to track down some Imperial helicoils with the correct thread for the standard series studs or go metric and move to m8 threaded studs used in more recent LR products
  6. MS3 overall external wiring schematic is at page 17 of 222 here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3baseV30_Hardware-1.5.pdf/MS3baseV30_Hardware-1.5.html EDIS specific details are on page 126, as said above it will be as easy to wire as MJ. Manual states that the "IGN" (pin 36) on the DB37 goes to the EDIS SAW connection, and pin 24 of the DB37 connects to the PIP line.
  7. I use Tunerstudio too, by far the best tool I also have MsDroid on my phone (which the screenshots were from) which is pretty handy for when I don't have my laptop with me.
  8. Are you using regular MS2 or MS2/Extra? I don't think I have come across that particular correction curve.... As for startup, both mine start and continue to run without dying, settings as below. They are both 3.5's so may differ slightly, but hopefully not too much as MS2 uses %'s of fuel rather than absolute pw values. Note that my ASE curve looks a bit weird as it has a kink in it from where I haven't tuned it below ~20 degrees...
  9. Rob, Just having upgraded the MS in my 90 to MS2 last week I am revisiting some of the tune settings. This evening I noticed fluctuations in AFR myself (a little lean) whilst sat in traffic. I've just looked again and the setting I used on the P6 to iron this out was the "MAT/CLT correction" curve.
  10. Rob, if you are using ms1 then this might help- it did on mine: http://www.mez.co.uk/ms15-new.html If it's MS2 then Google "coolant corrected air density" this helped massively on my other one.
  11. When fitting efi to my P6 I used a cylindrical facet (which the factory fitted one off my 90) a small swirl pot from obp, and an in-line pump followed by an efi filter. This is a lot cheaper than the nice internally pumped swirl pots that fridge mentions but is a heck of a lot more plumbing (looks messy) and general stuff to find a home for!
  12. Yeah, agree that mine is definitely an earth issue. If/when other things stop breaking/falling off etc I *might* get round to looking at it... 😂
  13. My 90 does exactly this, often (but not always) when I turn the heater on the temp gauge will go to the red. To check the temp I have to turn off the heater momentarily 😂
  14. Best engine thread? *Runs for cover* 😵
  15. I run a Spartan 2 in both my rv8 vehicles, this uses the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor which is a bit more robust than the earlier 4.2 version. They are both used as my dailies (the 90 is my winter car, saving the P6 for when there is no salt about) and I have only had one sensor failure between them over the years. I'd be tempted to write off your dead WB to bad luck and just fit another.
  16. I have a 4.6 plenum and manifold on my 3.5 because I like the neater stepper valve arrangement. Pretty sure I kept the flapper ram housing because I was being lazy and didn't want to swap all the threaded connections over for vacuum takeoffs for map sensor, fuel rail, brake servo etc when I performed the swap from full flapper arrangement. I *think* I read somewhere that the 4.6 trumpets are closer to the top of the plenum to cause faster airflow at lower engine speeds and increase torque, but I could be wrong about that, and have never compared myself to validate this.
  17. I'd not bother with closed loop idle, just use it for warmup only. Unless you have a rock solid idle from the ve table and spark tables alone you won't get good results with closed loop anyway. There's a fair few posts and articles around the internet on how to get a stable idle, here's one: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/idle-tuning-megasquirt/
  18. Love a good helicoil, did the downpipe studs on my V8 manifolds- very satisfying to have a nice new thread that is stronger than the original too!
  19. I seem to remember that the stepper allows air from a port coming in from the main throat of the plenum (concentric to the stepper hole) to take a 90 degree turn through a small port on the inboard side. You'll need to jam something in to block both holes- I think I wrapped a drill bit in insulation tape until it was a snug fit when I set my base idle. This was all quite a while ago though so I may be talking total piffle.
  20. 14cux valve is a standalone part and similar valves were used in many other applications, Saab's, Volvo's, Porsches etc. I seem to recall there are some versions with slightly different inlet/outlet pipe configurations which could be handy. Edit- Google Bosch 0 280 140 501 and you'll get one with the ports in line with each other rather than at 90 degrees as an example.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy