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Quagmire

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Posts posted by Quagmire

  1. This is what I had when I converted to v8 (from 2.25 petrol) back in 2008, I bolted a bare block up to the "long stick" v8 lt77 transmission, got it into the car and sat on the gearbox mounts and then tacked the engine mounts in position. All good, happy days!

    Everything worked fine, but when I did my chassis swap a few years ago the engine mounts didn't line up! I ended up extending the mounts bolted to the block with 6mm plate so that it would sit properly on the chassis mounts. This is all down to the gearbox mounts being different I believe?

    I had used the orignal 2.25 petrol ones in the conversion, when the issue with the new chassis came up I looked at proper V8 ones at the time but they were hella expensive...

  2. As a Land-Rover driver and a cyclist, my take is: 

    • The 90 could have slowed down a *little* bit more. 
    • The fact it's a Defender is totally irrelevant, compared to modern cars, they actually aren't that big at all - kind of normal sized, really. 
    • Lady who was clipped in blatantly fell over because the guy in front stopped to make a fuss (as did the guy with the helmet cam) and she couldn't unclip herself when she got caught out.

    And this is just a silly response: 

    6 hours ago, steve b said:

    Cleats should be banned for road use . Totally unsuitable. 

    The only times I have ever fallen over with SPDs have been off road when caught out in boggy mud etc and the front of the bike has pushed away from me in an unexpected direction - you go to dab your foot and can't, you've wasted time in trying then before you can engage brain and unclip... splat.😄 

    • Like 1
  3. On 1/16/2022 at 2:49 PM, ThreePointFive said:

    Is there any way to accurately test that the injectors are getting signal?

    If you put a finger on them you can normally feel the injector bodies clicking as they fire. Hard to do for the ones under the plenum intake though.

    Failing that pull the fuel rail off with the injectors fitted and run it in test mode into glass jars to see if they fire. This is obviously a bit of a fire risk so be careful, have extinguishers handy, etc.

    A few years ago I did have a test rig setup with an old 10l paint bucket with lid on full of white spirit, an in tank pump and an old fuel rail from some four cylinder car (Vectra I think). A bit of plumbing and I could test injectors on the bench using the MS from the car. Obviously four at a time means swapping stuff about to check all eight connectors and injectors, but it was cheap and easy to do.

  4. When I switched to hardtop it was because I couldn't afford a new canvas at the time and I had a hardtop sitting about unused.

    However, after making the switch the first things I noticed were the noise levels seemed much higher inside, and secondly the condensation dripping on me!

    The canvas was as warm and more flexible, but does without a doubt feel less secure, although being a Defender that's purely wishful thinking as the hardtop is about as secure as a paper bag.

     

  5. The sender on my 90 occasionally gets hung up on the baffles and the gauge stops moving. It always catches me for a short while as I start to think "I'm getting decent economy on this tank" and then I realise what's happened and either have to go over some speed humps or fill up again to get it unstuck.

    Happens maybe one time in ten, so annoying but evidently not *quite* annoying enough for me to fix it as it's been like that for years...

  6. I found that putting silentcoat sound deadening matting on the underside of the floors, seatbox, trans tunnel and footwells made a noticeable difference to the transmission noise in my V8 powered 90.

    If I did the rest of the vehicle and put some other layers of foam, carpet etc then I expect it would be much better. As it is, it has no carpet or headlining so is not the quietest...

  7. 12 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    I've found that splitting or joining major components like that they will fight you the harder you try, then randomly and for no reason just "pop" apart or back together when you are least expecting it.

    ^This. When fitting the LT77 to my rover saloon, the engine and box slid together beautifully first time, I was amazed. Then I remembered I hadn't torqued the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the main body of the gearbox! Took it apart, torqued, but would it go back together again? Would it ever! Much, much huffing puffing and swearing later engine and box were finally a single unit again. Annoyed was not the word...

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
  8. Have a search on the forum, this has been covered loads of times over the years.

    I'd probably stick with the SU's though over the Weber. The SU's will work at pretty much any angle, unlike the Weber and won't restrict anything power-wise on a 3.5. I am a multiple megasquirt user but unless you need maximum economy or power or just like wiring etc then I'd say stick with the carbs, especially if not doing many miles.

    • Like 1
  9. To check the rockers you can run it with the rocker covers off, but anything much above idle will make a mess as oil gets flung everywhere.


    For the lifters themselves I am not sure... If it was an old dizzy driven pump I might have suggested removing a couple of lifters at a time and running the pump with a drill to see what is being delivered to each lifter bore. Not sure how is best to proceed with the crank driven pump setup...

     

     

     

     

     

  10. 23 hours ago, =jon= said:

    Nope - I don't have MAT / CLT correction setup yet - still trying to figure out if it's a heatsoak issue or something else. That it consistently starts/dies then cranks then starts/runs makes me wonder if it's something else. 

    What sort of settings have you got setup if you don't mind me asking, has to be worth a try...

    Here's what I have, I set it up a few years ago on a hot summers day.

    Note that this is a rover 3.5 running on MS2 with a hotwire top end in a Rover P6, and so the engine bay is a bit cramped compared to a defender!

    The air temp sensor is just below the passenger side headlight, immediately below where the air filter bellmouth is. 

     

    Screenshot_20210819-112103.jpg

    Screenshot_20210819-112112.jpg

  11. Have you got mat/CLT correction setup? I have used this to pretty good effect to combat heatsoak problems. It basically gives you a curve that allows you to tell the ECU to lean towards either the air temp or the coolant temp under various conditions. 

  12. Much as I would love a larger engine in my 90, I have a 3.5 which I love.

    It's a 9.35:1 lump from an SD1, that I got as a short block.

    I rebuilt it before fitting, which was honing, new rings, new cam, lifters, bearings etc. It got fitted with later ten bolt heads and has the cast 4-2-1 manifolds from a 3.9, and injection run by MS2 using Bosch ev6 style injectors.


    It runs very nicely indeed (you can't feel it idling at all), pulls well and gives me decent economy too!

    So i guess what I am saying is that 3.5's aren't bad at all, or don't have to be! 

     

    • Like 1
  13. I used to work (years and years ago) as a cashier in a bank, and there were a few dodgy people that got caught in various local branches nicking so it does happen!

    The Aircon would not have affected the scales, no way...

    I would report it, and then the body of evidence will gather against that person, as has been said above you won't be the first (or last) person that they rip off...

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