Quagmire

Fridge is right, most HP pumps need to be lower than the fuel supply (and close to it) or they are in tank pumps. Normally they are "pusher" pumps in that they pump fuel forward, rather than a "puller" pump that sucks it forward. You might need a LP facet type job supplying the efi pump. But if your pump says it should work there, forget everything I just said! But then you might have one that is

Sounds like timing could be too far advanced, or ht leads out of order?

So what's it doing now? Catching ok and then dying, just coughing a bit, or nothing at all?

I have found that ragtops tend to shrink if they get wet and are not fastened tightly enough. As said above, wind from driving will help stretch it out, as will getting it wet again. Retighten it down whilst wet and it should stretch out a bit.

I did have heatsoak issues before that tweak, but I must admit never enough to noticeably affect power on the move, just idle quality when hot.

If it truly is heatsoak this might help before you move anything: http://www.mez.co.uk/ms15-new.html

A lot of people run around with their IAT outside of the engine bay - I'd say it's worth a shot as changing its position has got to cost next to nothing and I try to follow the policy of trying the least expensive options first!

Especially if it ran low before it started happening...

Probably got some crud in the idle jet?

Sounds about right, just make sure you only connect the shielding at one end - leave the shielding at the sensor end unexposed.

Kill the engine by pulling power to the fuel pump/ supply to injectors or to EDIS? They should be fused so you could just whip the appropriate fuse out.

This is why landrover owners are mentally as sharp as tacks! You have to literally consider anything and everything when a fault occurs! Glad you sorted it.

My wife and I were there on Wedsnesday, total carnage! Worth it though , warmed up for a bit when standing on the footplate of Bittern having a gander. Apparently Dwight Eisenhower and D of C were in a bit of a state when they got here - D of C had its front all caved in from a shunting accident with knuckle coupler...

I have been running hires on my ms1 edis setup with no probs for ages now.

I read the magazines so that I can: look at the pretty pictures - i'm serious, we all like pictures!I read the forums (lr4x4 being just one) for: Insightful technical info Unusual/different builds and approaches to similar problems, not the "cookie cutter" approach. Some useful, sometimes comic discussions. A more unbiased "real world" opinion on a product/retailer.

If all the injectors on one side appear to not be firing first try and feel if they are doing anything. Normally they make quite a racket going "click click click" and if you feel the body of the injectors while the engine is running, you can feel it too. If that shows nothing then double check your wiring. Then (depending on how much slack you have)you could try swapping the loom over so the connectors currently on the working bank are on the dead one and vice versa. if the fault follows the loom its a wiring/MS fault. If the problem stays on the same side you may have some dead injectors. As Fridge as said before though - what are the chances of 4 injectors all going poof at once?

I have rebuilt an lt77- is doable with the space and time. Check the tech archive for a photo heavy thread, and Google around for PDFs of the official workshop manual which describes everything. Good luck

Personally I think threads like this are useful to the community as a whole. The OP was more than patient with the supplier, and gave them a chance to redeem themselves, which they chose to ignore. The supplier in question can always save some face with a proper response, and (if) the staff member firing off the rude emails is dealt with the more the better. I dont work in retail, but which of us would be able to send an email like that to a client when at work, no matter what line of business we are in? *edit - so the email writer is one of the main men? Crazy! Business suicide, surely.

Official megajolt forums are the autosportlabs.net pages I think?

I love my rover 3.5's. And agree with the statements that they are perfect for easy conversions, cheap insurance etc. Parts are cheap and plentiful, its a simple engine and there is plenty of knowledge for it. I would love something more exotic but the extra work fitting say a Lexus engine, then insuring it and keeping it running outweigh the pros for me. I will admit though I am just assuming that Lexus/Toyota parts are more expensive than lr ones here... My experiences of v8 are: The 3.5 in my 90 has done 10's of thousands of miles since I fitted it. No problems at all, except for ones I have probaby caused myself. Its ms'd and is lovely. The one in my dads 101 always works, even after its yearly winter layup. The one in my dads 110 has had on head gasket go in many many miles of motoring. Again 99% trouble free. The one in my new daily drive was stood for ten years. New carbs were fitted and after building oil pressure it started and ran. New ignition consumables, an oil change and general tune and it does fine on my daily commute, approx 70 miles a day. In the P6 the little 3.5 really is quite rapid even in stock form. And I get 24mpg on Su's!

Blaster blades

I got the parts I needed from another old box and it has been totally fine ever since.

Over on classicrover forum.net (mainly p6's) everyone seems to swear by "epoxy mastic 121" which I think is what is sold on the rust.co.UK website already mentioned above. From the pics it certainly looks quite nice. Historically I have used Tractol on the land rovers, its designed for plant and agricultural stuff so should be in its element. Holds up far far better than hammerite.

Diyautotune have the daughter board I think...

Didn't realise you were looking one fitted with an oil burner already- in that case go for it!