Quagmire

+1 for a wideband. No guesswork! (I'm lazy ) *edit - have fun with the install, mine has been fantastic- the best thing I have done to it in all aspects (apart from fitting the v8)

I'd go with dodgy edis module, in 4 years of daily use I've only had 3 secondhand coils fail, never in quick succession though and none have popped like that. They usually just seem to stop working, with little warning beforehand...

Thats a resistor pack for flapper type (low-z aka low impedance) injectors.

Mike - do you mean splicing in the LPG injection kit as you would on a "normal" car? i.e. the LPG ecu taking direction from the MS ECU with the MS blissfully unaware that it is infact running LPG? That should work I guess. I am going to try MS driving both sets of injectors natively as it were. Am yet to figure out the best way. Biggest problem as far as I can see is how to drive16 injectors (I was going to cut the +12v supply across with a relay) and that pressure differences on the LPG supply can make big differences to the fuelling, and not sure how to get around that. Some LPG injector rails have pressure sensors, so thought perhaps I could add an extra input to the MS and do something that way... All just a brain fart at the moment though.

Right, I run LPG on my daily driver which is a 3.5 (9.35:1) powered 90. My findings have been thus over the past 3-4 years: First configuration was twin SU's with mixer plates running open loop. - Ran ok, smooth and seemed quick (although I did change from a 2.25 so anything seemed quick then). Ignition was advanced on the dizzy as far as possible so that it would just ping/pink on heavy load on petrol. Then I fitted Megajolt which gave me the option of map switching and allowed me to run more advance on gas whilst retaining proper timing on liquid gold. Things got better- it wasn't rough before, but somehow it seemed smoother and pulled much better (on both fuels). Starting became much better too and it got a bit more economical. Then I fitted closed loop to the LPG, basically a lambda sensor that drove a stepper motor on the gas side (via a box of tricks)- constantly aiming for 14.7:1. This improved consumption and I was hitting heady highs of 17mpg on long runs. Then I fitted a wideband, and started to realise how off my fuelling was, particularly under load. The closed loop control box died and I went back to open loop, tuned with the wideband as best as I could. Then I fitted Megasquirt in place of the Megajolt. No change (obviously) as still running carbs. Fitting it ignition only did give me a chance to get all my wiring up and running and sensors reading correctly- including the wideband. Couple of months ago I fitted a flapper top end and went efi on petrol. This is running lpg through a mixer ring on the plenum throat. Looking at the restriction I was worried it would be strangled compared to the carbs, however I need not have worried! It now goes MUCH better on both fuels - especially petrol. Revs more freely and is generally much more fun to drive. Result! Next step is to fit a later hotwire manifold (just so I have more choice of injectors) and I am planning to pre-drill this for lpg injection nozzles prior to fitting which I will blank off for now. When time and funds allow, hopefully in next month or two I will see if I can get gas injection going. *edit- using the mixer ring (as recommended by Tinley tech) I am getting a WOT reading of around 93kPa, so you can see it does cause a restriction

Yep, Bowie is right. You change one parameter in an *.ini file and you then have the ability to correct for heatsoaked iat readings. See www.mez.co.uk and then go to the "other megasquirt stuff" page (I think that's the page anyway)

Awesome!

Saw a disco a few weeks ago southbound on the a3 just climbing the hogsback that appeared to have lost it's left front. Looked like it had come to a stop ok, no gouges in tarmac or suchlike. Must be scary though!

if you cant feel any ridges etc with a fingernail then it will be fine. My elring gaskets were sealed in polythene on a red coloured cardboard backing, with a little hologram at the bottom. Also had a little sheet enclosed that had the various torques and methods of tightening for the different era's of head bolts. Think they actually had elring marked on the gasket themselves too

I used cheap headgaskets recently on my 3.5 - it leaked water on the drivers side head when cold! Reassembled with Elring gaskets and all good now. I ordered mine from LRdirect as you can pop in the part number and then choose a manufacturer of the part.

You could probably also test it on another pc by rigging it to a batterypack or 12v supply or something. Just power it up, connect and suck on the map sensor (or use a syringe). If it communicates and you see the map value change you have 99.9% proved it works...

My v8 90 tows very well and you wouldn't even realise you are pulling anything most of the time. Waaaay cooler than a Japan thing too

A series is a series, a 90/110 is totally different. I have a series 2 and a 90. I love them both for different reasons...

I bought some grabber trs for my 90 secondhand and have been very pleased with them, I do 70mile total commute each day (v8 powered too! ) seem to be good on fuel and seem ok in the wet too, have not tried them off-road yet. Am running 235/85's

They were cheap ones from autoparts I think...

Agree with above comments - I initially fitted steel but they were a rubbish fit! The clattering noise was terrible. Ended up fitting a good secondhand genuine set. No problems since.

I'm using an LC1 - it is connected to MS so I can log AFR's and autotune easily I have verified that the AFR reported in Tunerstudio/Megatune is within a tenth of that shown directly from the LC1 itself. The LC1 sensor ground is connected to the MS grounds to achieve this.

Mickey - I looked into using 50th parts but prices were as you might guess a bit steep. Instead I have a Range Rover filter can mounted onto a piece of aluminium angle that bolts to the throttle cable assembly. Is a nice neat idea that my Dad came up with. I knew I wanted the filter arrangement to be similar to a 50th, he figured out how to do it! silicon hoses were off ebay, including the elbow that reduces from 80mm down.

Just checked through my emails and it looks like that was the part number I ordered

Not sure on exact part number but it was a weird one like that, will check when I get home this evening, unless anyone else jumps in first...

Rubbish cameraphone images! Comes in at 6 feet long from the u-shaped end that attaches to the plenum linkage to the rubber bulkhead fitting at the other end.

I used the throttle cable from a 50th anniversary Defender and all the linkage gubbins from a 4.6 plenum (which I will fit later). The throttle cable comes off the plenum toward the passenger side wing, loops back runs along the bulkhead and then down to the drivers footwell. As the 90 is currently in bits I will go and measure for you in a min.

Guys, if you keep your windscreen sparklingly clean inside it mists up much less! I keep a microfibre covered sponge thing on the dash and its excellent at keeping it dust free...

Don't let the naysayers put you off if you really want to do it! I converted my 90 from 2.25 petrol to 3.5 v8 back in 2008 and its been (mostly, until last week or so- see my pinging thread in the international forum) excellent ever since, which is great as its my everyday commuting vehicle Heres my installation from 2008: http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4483 I would say that you need to write a list of everything you expect to have to do, then sit down and write it again. Literally walk yourself through doing the job step by step. Even changing petrol for petrol I had a lot of fiddly things to do! Also, do some reading on v8forum too for general v8 info. I would also say don't bother with carbs - after running MS controlled ignition for some time I finally got rid of the carbs a couple of months ago- the difference is amazing! I used a "longstick" LT77 from a Range-rover and this means that my engine sits in the factory v8 position, this means no mods to the bulkhead which is nice as it looks better and is less effort too Also means that factory v8 hoses etc all fit too. Fuel wise, I have a side tank of the "two hole" type. I used a modified Range rover in tank pump PRC8318 and the separate sender. If going injection make sure you use injection rated fuel hose...

Update on this one- stripped it all down and found that the head gasket on drivers side had failed and passenger side was on its way out. When compression testing before the strip down you could hear a strange "crack" sound every so often, which must have been a manifestation of the same problem. Compression was slightly lower on these pots, but not drastically so. Gaskets had failed on the lower edge on pots 5 and 4. Also 4 of the eight pots were quite coked up - two outer on drivers side, two inner on passenger side - this would match with a carb over fuelling prior to the swap to efi- it used to over fuel sometimes if you were forced to run petrol after having run LPG only for a few weeks and the carbs ahd dried out. I put the gasket failure down to me not having retorqued the heads after 500miles when I rebuilt the engine (4 years ago) coupled with the extra power being developed by the efi and the ability to run at leaner mixtures giving a tougher working environment for everything. Put engine back together last night and have a water leak on drvers side bewteen head and block - head was corroded around the waterway slightly, but no more than it was when I assembled last time (or so I thought!). I made a tactical retreat late last night and have left it at my parents where my Dad is (being the legend that he is ) stripping everything back off again to get the offending head off.