Quagmire

Update on this one- a few weeks ago I finally ordered a new wideband sensor. Fitted it and still getting error code 8. Did some trawling of innovate's forums and found that the 1.1 version firmware on the lc1 was prone to this. I found a copy of the (beta version) 1.2 firmware, which incorporates some code changes to address this, and flashed it to the unit. Since then no problems. Back running the old sensor with the new one in a box somewhere in the back bedroom as a spare.

You can get BFG's with or without the white lettering. I have white lettering out on my 90.

I have found that if the LPG mixture is too rich then you get what you describe- it slows down more and more until it eventually stops. *edit Mine idles best anywhere between 12:1 and 13.5:1 on gas (using Petrol AFR's- I can't speak in lambda).

Glad you got it sorted

I filled up with LPG last night - as I did so there was a gas tanker on the other side delivering more LPG Spoke to the driver and he said the gas tanker drivers are not involved in the strike action so anyone on LPG will be fine (unless the stations run out so much of "normal" fuels that they decide to close anyway).

I painted my Dad's 101 in my parents back garden using a gazebo wrapped in dust sheets as a spray booth, it came out pretty good- not perfect, but I was pleased. Used paint from the paint man and Dads old Devilbiss gun. The key is down to preparation before painting and between coats, i.e. everything must be clean and imperfections sorted out before you start painting. Was sprayed from bare metal with ali primer - you notice more imperfections once paint has gone on- fix those, then grey high build and finally the green. Lots of elbow grease with fine grades of wet and dry in between each coat. Also, don't rush! Lots of light coats...

'tis the little black box on the side on the dizzy itself. Will have two or three electrical terminals on it.

+1 for ignition amp.

Have you tried swapping in a known good coilpack? I have had 3 fail on me and they have all done weird things right before they packup entirely. -Don't read this post as my bashing EDIS coilpacks - i'm not. I do a lot of mileage and as all have been second hand units they could have been to the moon and back before I got my hands on them...

If you see the MAP value moving on the laptop but no rpm then it sounds like MJ itself is working but you have nothing coming from the EDIS module for some reason. The fact that it doesn't run on the EDIS setup by itself means that there is something wrong there. Did you follow the wiring diagram on the autosportlabs site? I did at first and found that I had everything backwards on the module. I'd doublecheck that- the unit does have pin 1 indicated on it. Maybe look for some official Ford wiring diagrams, check the EDIS wiring and go from there.

Just watched the video- looks like the timing is well out and its backfiring through the intake? I would say its definitely timing over a fuel problem (although the fuel may not be right either, that can be sorted later). - Remove passenger side rocker cover and turn engine over until number 1 (Cylinder 1 is nearest the dizzy.) is at TDC - so both valves will be fully closed. If you have the rocker cover off on the other bank then I believe pot 6 will be fully open at this point. - Check dizzy- look at where the lead for pot 1 is. - Remove dizzy cap - is the rotor arm pointing at where the same place where the lead was connected? Should be roughly there. If not, adjust. - Once thats ok and engine is on TDC with the rotor arm pointing towards the lead for number 1, then put dizzy cap back on. - Check all the other leads are connected in the correct firing order which is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Even cylinders are on drivers side, odd ones are on passenger side. - Once this has all been verified try again. You can check what the engine is from by looking up your engine number here: http://www.v8forum.co.uk/engineno2.htm Engine number will be on the block below passenger side head near dipstick or across the back of the engine at the top where the bellhousing bolts up. I have a Weber/SU Haynes manual that is excellent- will send you a link via PM when I get the chance to upload it somewhere. Good luck

The pump will run continuously, you may hear it change speed slightly as pressure is reached, it will slow down. With pump running if you listen carefully you may hear fuel splashing back into the tank via the return. This is a good sign thay fuel is moving as it should...

Are there no warning signs on a disco anywhere? My old 90 has a big notice on the fuse panel about the centre diff...

Could be down on power due to a worn cam (change, with new followers too), or simply being well out of tune. And the pressurised coolant will be as vulcan bomber says possible head gasket- also not helping things in the power department. Really, the only way to check is to take it apart and have a look. Before you go to all that trouble though a few things first: Does it actually burn oil? (blue exhaust smoke) Or just leak it? What is oil pressure like (hot and cold) Try pulling plug leads one by one with it running until you find the one that makes no difference to the running of the engine. That will locate the problem (or at least one of the problems) Have you pulled plugs and checked what they look like? My Dad's 110 had head gasket failure between the coolant gallery and pot 1 near dizzy- the spark plug was consequently wet after being turned over and this pot did not fire well at all. The plug itself had very light surface rust too. What are compression test readings like on all pots? (should all be fairly similar to each other) If it is head gasket failure, once you have located which bank has the problem you can whip the head off and check things properly, and take a peek at the condition of the cam while your at it too.

See here: http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/201%20General%20Requirements.html and here: http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf

I have had that! I had the complete tip of my iron slough off straight onto the knuckle of my left thumb. I did my megajolts and ms with some of dads old solder, much nicer

mines only a few after yours - Green too but was a soft top (currently hard top for winter) - VIN ending 7036 Here it is! There is another Green hardtop B-reg down in the town from me, I'll have to speak to the owner and see how close his vin is to ours

Both mine and my dads V8's have the td5 dash mod by retroanaconda, we used the 300tdi sender as it is listed for the 50th's too (i think) normal running temp sits a tiny fraction to the left of vertical on both. We drilled out an original sender and tapped to take the smaller new sender.. posting from phone so good that makes sense...

Check extra efi.co.UK they have some kind of conditioner box that allows you to hook knock sensors to ms and have it retard timing when knock detected. Not gonna achieve max power etc just by installing and leaving it to it, but maybe offers some protection from tuning screwups...

I have the same one as Fridge linked to - used it in the other half's Polo many many times. Very useful at finding out what was throwing a check engine light and then clearing it

We have three m84s running my dads 101, the 110 and my 90. I have never had problems getting mixture rich enough, usually quite the opposite!

^^^ Sorry Bowie- skim reading again missed the key part of your post there...

Don't zip tie through the rad! I did this and it sawed through the radiator in about 12 months... On the new rad I used the plastic fixings that kenlowe supplied to mount to rad frame. I should have done this the first time instead of being lazy!

I went from 2.25 Petrol to V8 in my 90 and things to think about are: Engine mounts - I dropped in the gearbox and then swung in an old, denuded block- bolted up to box and tacked mounts in position. Using a long bellhoused lt77 from a Range Rover meant that my running gear is all in "factory" v8 position, as I imagine yours will be. No need for new props etc. Exhaust? I used cast iron manifolds from a later engine that have the two outlets so the exhaust goes 4-2-1. I used the standard centre silencer and rear section- my engine is only a 3.5 so probably no restriction issues there Mounting things like the coil - I had a bracket that mounted it to the passenger side cylinder head (now defunct as I have MS+EDIS ), not sure where the factory one would be. Throttle cable? Choke? (If applicable) Wiring to starter motor, alternator and other stuff- will it be long enough? Airbox- Mine is a P6 round type so is all self contained on top of the engine, no attaching to wings etc, that kept things simple. I didn't change the front springs and the ride was definitely more choppy afterwards, but not horrendous. Good luck and have fun

Lexus engine anyone? Loads on ebay that come with a free car too!