Quagmire

Here is my attempt to write the process of assembling and installing my Megajolt setup. This is by no means intended as a “how to” guide or anything like that, but rather as a guide showing how relatively straightforward it has been. Hopefully some people who may have been considering going the same route but put off by the “complexity” will be encouraged to give it a go. Apologies for it being so long winded, but I do promise some pictures along the way Some background… The vehicle: The vehicle that the MJ has been fitted to is my B-Reg 90. This left the factory as a 2.25, but in Nov 2008 I changed that for a 3.5 I had rebuilt. To enable me to afford to run the v8, I had previously converted the vehicle to run on LPG. The V8 is basically standard a 3.5l engine built from a 9.35:1 compression SD1 block, with 4.0 heads, a standard 3.5 EFi cam and 3.9 cast manifolds. Fuel is provided via SU’s when on Petrol, or through the mixer rings when on gas. Gas mixture is controlled by a closed loop system, using a heated narrowband lambda located in the y-piece of the exhaust. A stepper valve between the vapouriser and the mixer rings opens/closes dependant on mixture requirements. The owner: Me. I have no background in electronics although I am a mechanical engineering graduate, and at points my course did stray off into electrickery. I have not really soldered since I did my GCSE’s…and I did those over 10 years ago! It was for this reason that I was slightly apprehensive of soldering the small surface mount components in the Megajolt kit. I needn’t have worried however, as you will see later. The reasons: Running the v8 on gas with the distributor was fine, I had done the usual thing of advancing timing until it would just pink under load on petrol and then left it at that. I ran the 2.25 this way for about a year with no problems, and the v8 for another 6-9 months after that in a similar way. However, I wasn’t happy that I was getting the best efficiency from the LPG with the timing setup this way, as it could only ever be a compromise at best. I wanted to be able to run both fuels with ignition timing optimised for the different characteristics of each. Megajolt would allow me to do this (as Megasquirt would also I think) as it has the ability to switch between ignition “maps”. Bonuses of fitting the Megajolt would be the better spark from the Ford EDIS system, and the v8 should (although I am still yet to test) be more waterproof in terms of the ignition system. Finally- why MJ, and not MS? Well I decided to plump for MJ as I am on carbs and so cannot control fuelling on petrol (I can hear the EFi people yelling “Literally!!” already ), and I don’t believe that the MS could control the stepper motor for the gas setup. (please correct me if I am wrong here.) I have plans to go EFi, but not just yet as I lack the time. By going Megajolt I could get all my ignition maps sorted, and the EDIS half of the wiring in place and working. It was also less money for me to waste if I made any major cock-ups with assembly! The basics: In essence getting Megajolt installed and working involves getting two systems up and running. The basic “bottom level” system is the Ford EDIS system. This was fitted to fords during the 1990s and early 2000’s and stands for “Electronic Distributorless Ignition System”. The EDIS system uses a toothed trigger-wheel and sensor mounted on the crankshaft pulley to generate a sine wave that the EDIS module monitors. The trigger wheel has one tooth missing and the EDIS uses this “blip” to work everything out. The EDIS module is connected to the coilpacks and fires them at the appropriate time. Without a higher level ECU talking to the EDIS, it will run the engine at a fixed 10deg BTDC, which is limp-home mode. The Megajolt is then the “higher” level control that talks to the EDIS and tells it when to fire based on the ignition map that you have programmed into it. This is connected to the EDIS via two wires, the “PIP” and “SAW”. For more info on how EDIS works, go here: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm This is aimed at MS users, but the EDIS works the same. What you need: Megajolt unit- kit or pre-assembled the choice is yours! EDIS module with connector and “pigtail” of wire, coilpacks, VR sensor Triggerwheel Bracket for VR sensor. The Megajolt kit See www.autosportlabs.com for details on features, assembly, operation, ordering details etc. Megajolt forums can also be found here if you go to the “community” tab. You will need to decide which method of load sensing to use. You can go MAP (Manifold air pressure) or TPS (Throttle position sensor). See here for more info: http://www.autosportlabs.net/index.php?title=Choosing_between_MAP_or_TPS You will also need a cable to go from the laptop to MJ (RJ11> DB9). I made a cable the first time, but bought one when I did my Dad’s MJ- it was not worth the hassle for the price… The EDIS module and associated coilpack/s and VR sensor. EDIS4’s are easy to get in the UK for anyone doing a four pot from ebay or a scrapyard (Escorts, Fiestas, Mondeos etc), and EDIS6’s do show up on ebay.co.uk sometimes (fitted to Ford Scorpios and Galaxies?). For anyone with a V8 you will need an EDIS8 module, and two standard coilpacks as fitted to the 4cylinder models. I got my EDIS 8 from the “ebay motors” section of ebay.com for just over £30 with delivery. I was lucky, I think £40 is more the standard going rate… Make sure that you get the connector for the EDIS module with it- also ideally you want to buy one with a nice length of wire attached to it although if you get one with only a short length its not the end of the world. A trigger wheel and bracket for the VR sensor. Some people make their own 36-1 trigger wheels and brackets, and there are some vehicles you can also take the standard Ford trgger wheel from, I was lazy and bought mine from www.trigger-wheels.com You’ll also need some wire of various colours and gauges, including some shielded two pair for the VR sensor to EDIS connection, connectors, a small soldering iron (if building the kit) some tweezers, a good light source, and a steady hand… Step 1 – assembly of MJ: When the MJ arrived I was slightly shocked at how small it was, I had imagined it to be slightly bigger. Panic about soldering it all began to set in. Here it is next to a DVD for size comparison: Everything is packed in neatly labelled bags, so you only unpack the components for the section you are working on: And my workbench (AKA the kitchen table ): Print out the instructions from here and read them- they are excellent: http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_kit_assembly_guide Make sure you have a nice well lit area to work in, with a pair of good tweezers and some decent free flowing solder (I had a nightmare with some new lead-free stuff and so reverted to some “proper” solder I got from my Dad). I used a tiny 12W soldering iron that I got from Maplin to do the job. You begin with the power supply circuitry. Follow the instructions and firstly add a small blob of solder to ONLY ONE pad of each component you are set to solder. Don’t apply too much. Here’s mine (first components to be fixed are top right): Then to fix the component, reheat the solder on the pad you did, and slide the piece onto the board flush using the tweezers. Once that has set and you are happy with position, heat and solder the other side: Then work on through the instructions, stopping to test voltages as specified. You will get this: Then this: And eventually this: If you verified voltages along the way and had no disasters then you should have a working MJ unit! Once you are going it is really quite therapeutic To test, download and install the Megajolt software from here: http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_Downloads Connect your MJ to the PC/laptop with the cable, power it up (I used the 9V battery I used to test voltages) and open the software. If you have a MAP sensor you can suck on it and see how the pressure reading changes. If it does, congratulations! Remember that the normal pressure will be around 100kPa: If you are using TPS, then you can’t do that, so try retrieving the controller’s current settings by clicking the little blue arrow icon, just below “view” on the toolbar. This should display the map that the controller has on it by default. If you are having issues with communications between PC and MJ, then try posting on the autosportlabs forums, beware that if you are using a USB-> Serial convertor device then some of these do give problems. The autosport site has details of the tested working ones that are on the market. Wiring EDIS to MJ Read this first: http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide This next step depends entirely on where you want your EDIS and MJ units to sit. I opted to put mine in the battery box, mainly because it’s nice and warm and dry in there usually and you are ideally placed for live feeds etc. If you wade a lot then I recommend lacquering the MJ board and putting the whole lot somewhere a bit higher! With this in mind I began making up the cable that would join the MJ and the EDIS. I decided to make it around a foot long so that I could move the units about a bit. Start by consulting the diagrams on the Autosportlabs site. BE CAREFUL WITH THE EDIS8 DIAGRAM it is easy to get everything backwards… Ask me how I know Use this to help get things clearer: I used a lot of cable ties during this phase to hold everything together as one big cable. I twisted and soldered the wires between connectors, before heat-shrinking the joints. I know some people say that this will fail in a car due to vibration, but I still feel better about a soldered connection than a crimped one if the connection isn’t one that needs to ever be disconnected. The MJ and EDIS only need to have the PIP and SAW connected between them (the MJ instructions recommend shielded wire), but I decided that as both should be earthed and powered from the same point that they should be joined also, giving only one connection to the power supply and earth point. This included the grounds from the shielding on the VR sensor wire, and the PIP and SAW. Along the way you will end up with something like this: So that’s the fun, warm, dry and clean bit all done. Time to head outside to the Landrover… Trigger wheel and sensor Take your trigger wheel and ensure that you have the right one. My pulley has 6 bolt holes, which is what my trigger wheel is made for, so that’s all good: Missing tooth: VR sensor mount: Remove your fan belt and then the bottom pulley- mine came off easily as copper grease had been applied when the engine was put together, and it had only been on there a short while anyway (Please ignore the oil leak from the timing chest collecting by dizzy, I used a rubbish gasket and it has haunted me ever since…) Pulley as removed: Carefully remove the mud shield thingamby whatsit: Affix the trigger wheel, using spacers as needed. I had to use only one of the two that came with my wheel. Spend time working out and checking the alignment of the missing tooth with relation to the position of the VR sensor! This is all in relation to cylinder #1 being at TDC. For the V8, the missing tooth passes the sensor 50 degrees or 5 teeth BTDC. Double-check the installation guide if you are unsure, or want figures for other cylinder configurations: You will probably need longer bolts, so make sure you get some first- I forget what they were, but will update this if I remember. Here’s a pic comparing old and new: Once in position, reassemble with the mud shield thing back in place: And refit to engine: Attach the sensor, and position as close to the wheel as you can without it touching. Coilpacks: I followed the tried and true method of mounting my coilpacks above the waterpump. As per this thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25256&st=0 The bracket was made from some old aluminium that was part of a server cabinet Bent and shaped by my Dad- thanks Dad! Unfortunately none of my ebay bargain coilpacks came with a connector, but you can’t really grumble when two of them came in at £5 with shipping! I therefore had to buy some new ones, which were sourced from trigger-wheels.com. I worked out how much wire I would need to run back to the battery box in one hit, then attached the connectors. I cable tied the wires together to form two separate leads for the coils, then spiral wrapped them together as one. This was routed to the battery box, and is connected to the EDIS with some bullet connectors. I would use some nice threeway connectors next time for neatness. Map sensor connection I took the MAP sensor reading from the hole on the drivers side of the inlet manifold, behind the carb. On my manifold, this hole was blanked off with a bolt but on a spare manifold I had there was a banjo fitted in its place. I used the banjo and some nylon tube to reach the battery box. Between the manifold and the MJ I inserted a small reservoir to smooth the signal. This was constructed from two tiny cooking funnels about 1.5” in diameter that were glued together (you can see it wrapped in insulation tape in the battery box pic further on) Battery box connections With the coilpacks in place, the trigger wheel mounted, and the EDIS and MJ plugs wired together all that was left was to connect it all and try to fire it up on EDIS alone… Power was taken from the 40A relay that I have already installed in the battery box to provide power to the lambda heater and LPG kit when the ignition is on. Earth was taken directly back to the negative terminal of the battery. HT leads were (and are still) a lashup mix of standard 8mm Rover leads and the Ford leads that came with my coilpacks. The Rover leads are bodged on using “hotwire” adaptors I got in Halfords. I was going to order a proper set from Fastlane but will now be waiting until my dad has his MJ installed so that we can order two sets at the same time. Avert your eyes now if you are easily disturbed! :blush: And lo and behold it fired up first time! So well infact that I thought I must have left the dizzy connected or something! Idle was much smoother and more stable- and it didn’t run badly at all before! I checked the timing and found I was out 2 degrees. I decided not to physically correct this, and instead opted to adjust it out in Megajolt later. Next step was to connect the Megajolt and verify that the timing is advancing as it should. It was! Hoorah! Phew- i'm all typed out. More pics to come, and more on what I have done with map switching, outputs etc... Hope that wasn't too boring! Jamie

Loved it- so did my girlfriend too. She even said afterwards that i should get a Rangie at some point! Previous to this I had been told the s2 and 90 were enough landrovers for 1 person... Top stuff!

For cheap offroading does it really need to go like stink? Not sure how bad the '8 is running but is it so bad it cant do a few mud runs? And if you want to keep it cheap do you really need the EFi and Megasquirt? Just go Megajolt if you want a waterproof ignition system. Significantly cheaper, and if you do decide later to go full MS, you already have the trigger wheel, EDIS setup etc... Or spend the money on a series Much less potential for welding than a Disco and before the Jap invasion they pretty much ruled the world for offroad capability I do understand if it is a matter of having the time though- it seems like there are never enough hours in the day to get all the normal stuff done, let alone any landrovering!

I drive down a big hill, sit at some traffic lights, then a short blast a 50mph for 1/2mile, then its 60mph the remaining 32 miles to work

My 3.5 runs at around 82-84 degrees... Well thats if i calibrated my sender to read correctly for Megajolt anyway. It does go up and down a bit- but generally stays in the above range when cruising in this weather on motorway.

On mine i stick the rad muff on the front- although i leave the flap open otherwise it gets too hot on the motorway at cruise when up to temp. I find that reducing the amount of cold air that can whistle through the engine bay allows my 3.5 to warm up almost (but not quite) as quickly as normal. Normally takes around 5 miles in this weather, and i have an electric fan. I always cold start on LPG and have done so for about a two years with no probs, until today... -6deg and no warmup = frozen vap unit

HFH is right- I rebuilt a 3.5 for my 90 last year and even just rebuilding to standard spec soon added up. Was great fun though and i would like to do it again, perhaps not to standard this time, and not with a 3.5 Just don't tell my girlfriend!

To be honest- even a hardtop isnt secure really. I guess it does put off the opportunist thief though, or kids mucking about... Just dont leave your laptop on the passenger seat!

I have a soft top on both my series2 and my 90. The series 2 just pootles around town now, but was my daily drive for some years- whilst the 90 spends its life hacking up and down the motorway... I now know this about canvas: -Its warm, and waterproof if you look after it. -Clean off bird poo STRAIGHT AWAY!!! it eats through canvas like nobodys business. Ask how i know. -You can fit all kinds of odd sized things in a ragtop landrover, simply by rolling up the panel that happens to get in the way. -Your landy will have less body roll with a ragtop. -At slows speeds your landy will seem quieter than the equivalent hardtop. -At high speeds, all you will hear is the canvas flapping. Imagine being in a tent in a 70mph wind... -On the motorway, you can hear other cars as they come past you. A good help with your blind spot if you have van sides... -A wet canvas goes tight like a drum and therefore flaps less than a dry one. -A plasticised "rip stop" stylee top will not go tight at all in the wet. -People will think you are in the army and small boys will point at you in amazement as you drive past. -Anyone who hasn't ridden in a canvas topped car or been in a tent will always get into your landy, and if its raining their first reaction will be to poke the roof "doesnt the water come through?" It does now... -Summer driving with the side rolled up keeps you nice and shady, but still gives you the awesome breeze too. Perfect. Driving on a summers evening with no roof is even better You cant beat a ragtop really.

My 90 was a 2.25 petrol when i got it and i defintley had the rose tinted specs on when i bought. Needed work to the A-frame x-member, new rear cross member and a new fuel tank. Also came with a bikini roof only. On the plus side it was pretty straight bodywork wise and had not been molested at all (its a B-reg) the engine ran smoothly and reliably, and the transmission was all spot on with a nice shift and no clunks (well, almost no clunks- its a land-rover after all ) I did all the work needed, got it running better than before (18mpg on motorway) and drove it like this for 18months. In the end i got fed up with having to dice with death everytime i wanted to merge onto a motorway. This would usually be when the person in front toodled along at 40mph and then booted it at the last minute up to 70mph- ruining my required run-up. In this time I converted to LPG (i have a few local stations) and ran it a while more, using the money i saved towards rebuilding a 3.5 that i had been given for free. The v8 has been in for a year now and i have averaged 15mpg on LPG over 12,720 miles. With the price difference between fuels thats equivalent to around 30mpg on petrol (Famous last words) but not sure why people say the v8's are unreliable, mine has been as solid as a rock for over a year now. All it asks for is regular oil changes and checks on the coolant now and then. 65 miles a day, 5 days a week. I have however in this time had a clutch master cylinder, steering box and gearbox go (a second hand one that i picked up and then turned out it had water inside- i didnt realise this until i had had the thing sat for a year in the garage. Top tip- when you buy anything always drain the fluid, or at least check so that you know what is inside) To get to the point- just buy one in as good a condition mechanically as possible. Get a sound base and go from there. Its a land-rover, you can always make it into whatever you want later, as time and money allows.

Was reading the news at lunch and saw this: BBC news I thought if the vehicle stands out to any group of people in particular, it should be us...

Problem with something like Megasquirt is that anyone can do it- and so the installation can be done to any standard. I guess that means that any failure has to be taken in that context. Not to say that Megasquirt can't fail- but from what i've read/heard it has been pretty much tested to destruction during development so that any numpty can get it working without releasing the magic smoke...

i think it ends in ...squirt..

So i was right! I don't stand corrected then

I stand corrected I never realised that the Heritage and 50th (as i think of it anyway) were released simultaneously. You learn something every day!

AFAIK the 50th was V8 only. A proper car! (let the flaming commence )

You don't want a poppet valve coming off and bouncing around the engine! I think that happened to someone on the 101 forum...

See here: http://www.orrp.com/smf/index.php?topic=50145.0 (couldnt get link to work for some reason!) Just to warn you though if browsing at work or at home in front of kids, some of the avatars and language can be a bit... saucy. Thread is still worth a look though.

You got the rapidshare link then? Didnt know if you might have it already... Used the very same manual to rebuild my carbs! trust me its all good The fuel filter tip is a good one- when i first changed from 2.25 to 3.5 i couldnt understand why it would not go above 65- then i checked the fuel filter. It was crudded up and restricting flow enough to bother the v8. Strange how the 2.25 didnt notice...

You can see the cam quite easily with the inlet manifold removed, here is a rubbish picture of mine when it was going together and into my 90- if you look straight down into the valley you can see the cam:

On a "normal" engine you can whip off a rocker cover and stick a dial test gauge on a rocker arm? Turn the engine over by hand and see how much lift you get on each cylinder. Does this work with hydraulic tappets? I think pot 7 is supposed to wear more than the other as the oiling it recieves is not so good. Otherwise you could take the inlet manifold off and have a look? Thats a pain though...

Do your plugs look anything like the right hand one on this page? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14006&st=100 Think maybe you are a little too lean from your pics in comparison.

Definitely fuse and relay! My Kenlowe switches on with a "crack" like lightning when it starts- god knows what current it draws in that split second it is stationary...

Well the v8 certainly shouldnt be gutless at all- i can pull away *just* in 5th with not too much slipping of the clutch on my standard 3.5. Doesnt like it though! If your timing is correct, then have you checked the mixture? What colour are the plugs? Whats compression like? Hopefully it'll be something silly like lean mixture

I promise to use search next time! Thank you muchly for the link