Quagmire

What happened to the Puma engine?

I seem to remember that the stepper allows air from a port coming in from the main throat of the plenum (concentric to the stepper hole) to take a 90 degree turn through a small port on the inboard side. You'll need to jam something in to block both holes- I think I wrapped a drill bit in insulation tape until it was a snug fit when I set my base idle. This was all quite a while ago though so I may be talking total piffle.

Thanks Fridge!

Looks very nice!

14cux valve is a standalone part and similar valves were used in many other applications, Saab's, Volvo's, Porsches etc. I seem to recall there are some versions with slightly different inlet/outlet pipe configurations which could be handy. Edit- Google Bosch 0 280 140 501 and you'll get one with the ports in line with each other rather than at 90 degrees as an example.

*cracks out popcorn* this could be great! Carry on.

Dreadful aero - yes. Heavier? Probably not.

The T16 lightweight quoted above is my brothers - it is extremely rapid!

I use bilt hamber "dynax ub" it comes in black or clear, I have used the black in aerosol form on my road car and have been very happy with it. It gives a thin waxy film which adheres nicely but can be wiped off easily with a rag and some white spirit. It stays soft and seems to protect against stone chips pretty well.

Just to make one point totally clear (and it may be clear to the OP, but it's not totally 100% evident from the thread). EGO Control (or Closed loop) is used so that the the ECU can trim the fuelling as needed on the fly. It doesn't make any changes to any of the VE tables when it is doing this, so in this regard you can have a tune that is slightly off, but the EGO is able to compensate for it, giving you fuelling that consistently hits the target AFR. This is especially useful when you start getting into the effects of air temp (and heat soak) on tuning, but that's for a bit further down the road... VE analyse (Or VE Analyse Live "VEAL") is when you have the laptop plugged in and logging for Tunerstudio to analyse later, or in the case of VEAL the laptop analyses on the fly. This process does correct/adjust your VE tables and the changes will be saved to the ECU if you burn the changes before shutdown. To disable closed loop EGO i usually just set the authority to 0%. I am very much a wideband tuning person - my old LC1 is still working after something like 9 years in my road car, however i have a Spartan 2 from 14point7.com fitted to my 90, and when the LC1 dies the P6 will be fitted with the same. That said, as Fridge pointed out above you can just tune like people would have done with carbs years ago, trust what your bum is telling you in the seat and what your nose says about the exhaust, how does the engine respond and sound when making various changes? It's perhaps a bit more trial and error, but can still work.

Thanks Western! Legend as always 😎

Hi guys, Can any body advise on what the torque value should be for the bolts that secure the "Tie bar" to the bottom of the steering box? I have looked and can't seem to find anything relevant in the manuals (probably just me being dense though ). If it makes any difference this is for the Gemmer manual steering box that came originally fitted to my 90 which is of B-registration vintage. Many thanks!

I have to do the very same thing to mine! Let us know how you get on 😊

The 2wd lt77 bellhousings are a fair bit shorter than the 4wd application ones. The 2wd ones are easy to identify as they have two humps, which the LR bellhousings don't have.

Based on your other post it sounds like you are running hotwire injection? If so then there is a diagnostic manual on here you can follow through (i think). Only real way to tell whats going on is to stick a wideband lambda sensor on it and see whats coming out the exhaust, or go to a garage and see if they will let you have a quick sniff with their kit.

I thought the OP was talking about swapping the entire engine, and then fitting the original ancillaries?

Blimey thats well out!

I bought my first trigger wheel off them some time ago, when I first fitted megajolt. They were fine then, couldn't say now though. So is this a 3.9 running factory injection, or is it on carbs? I have always just picked up the bits I need from a mixture of autojumbles, eBay (both the U.K. site and the U.S. one - U.S. for edis8), and then bought the ECU kit from diyautotune. Wiring supplies and stuff from usual suspects like polevolt or vehicle wiring products etc.

No reason to change what you have, just wanted to see if you had a sensible value.

Good to know - quite specific! Looking at the tune for my ms2'd 3.5 I have 400rpm set, no idea what my ms1 uses as I'm on a new phone and havent connected to the 90 yet...

Sounds like yet more progress being made! I'd say that your cranking settings are good enough as the engine is firing each time you turn the key. Out of interest, what cranking rpm do you have set? The second the MS sees the engine running at a speed higher than that value it switches from using the cranking pulsewidths to using the VE table with the ASE and WUE added. You are now moving into the old "starts on the second try" territory which has been covered on here in a few threads. Once you have that sorted (which will be ASE) and as it sounds like your VE table is good you can run the WUE autotune feature and that should get you pretty much dialled in. I can't check your log as I am away from home at the moment, but if you compare the field "afr1 target" (or something like that) to "air:fuel ratio1" you should see a general trend in which way the fuelling is during warmup. I used the autotune feature a couple of times on mine until it was just polishing the turd and then enabled EGO feedback during warmup after 40 degrees coolant temp had been achieved. This helps pull it in the right direction as required.

I just got a one+6 a week or so ago and it's great, I believe it has dual SIM capabilities, even though I'm only using one: https://www.oneplus.com/uk/6

Sounds like you are making good progress! with your initial starting issues: I'd suggest following this info from one of the old megasquirt manuals - it worked well for me on both my ms1 and ms2 cars (from here): Typically, the first time someone tries to start their engine with MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, it starts after about 5 minutes of alternating various cranking pulse widths numbers to get started (on the Enrichments page), and changing the: Cranking Pulse Widths: The cranking pulse width at -40°F should be about 3 to 5 times the 170°F value. If you over-estimate the correct values, you WILL flood the engine. To begin, set the -40°F cranking pulse width to about 88% of your "upper" req_fuel value, and the 170°F cranking pulse width to about 23% of your req_fuel. Those should get you 'in the ball park' for starting. Once you have the engine running, you can tune the cranking pulse widths with small changes, moving them up or down together, and check it over a few days worth of starts before deciding which direction to go next. Remember that the cranking pulse widths need to be with ~0.5 milliseconds of the optimal value at both -40ºF and 170º F. You move them up and down together, but not by the same amount. You want to keep the cold cranking pulse width about 3 to 5 times the hot cranking pulse width. For example, suppose your reg_fuel was 14. Then you might start with a cold cranking PW of 12.3 and a hot cranking pulse width of 4.0. Suppose you try this and see it is too rich, and your temperature when you tried it was 40°F. So you need to lean it out (after making sure the engine hadn't flooded, in which case you would have to clean the plugs). You might try reducing your cold cranking pulse width by 0.8 milliseconds, to 11.5. You don't want to also reduce you hot cranking pulse width by 0.8. You really want to reduce it by the proportional amount you reduced the cold pulse width, which would be 0.8*(4.0/12.3) = 0.26 = 0.3. So you would reduce it to 3.7. This maintains a reasonable ratio between the pulse widths. You don't have to calculate it each time though, just adjust the hot number by about 1/3 of the cold number, and you should stay 'in the ballpark'. Conversely, if you had to richen the pulse widths, you might add 0.8, and 0.3, etc. Note that even in a 'piggy-back' application, do not set MegaSquirt®'s cranking pulse widths to zero. This will cause unpredictable pulse widths up to 13 milliseconds. Instead, set them to 0.1 milliseconds in that application. This allows very little fuel to flow. It is very easy to flood the engine, especially when cold, without realizing it, and this can confuse your start tuning quite a lot. So it's better to start with low pulse widths and work your way up in small steps (lean cranking is much easier to recover from), As you get closer to optimal cranking pulse widths, you can adjust just one of the hot or cold pulse widths a bit to fix particular starting issues - for example, if you have hot start issues, warm the engine up fully (ideally by driving, not idling) then shut it off and adjust only the hot pulse width slightly to get the best starting. You can do the same with cold start, but you can only do it on 'true' cold starts, which means that: a) you have to wait for a cold day, and b) you only get one test per day (starting it and shutting it off right away still warms the combustion chamber, etc, and basing your tuning on that will throw you off). If your engine doesn't respond while cranking at all, try disconnecting the serial cable to the laptop from your MegaSquirt® controller. The power supply from the laptop may interfere with your MegaSquirt® controller at times, making the engine impossible to start. If you try to datalog a cranking attempt, and the datalog is blank, or you are getting resets (secL keeps dropping back to zero before reaching 255), then you likely need to disconnect the laptop while cranking. You should be able to reconnect after the engine is started, and tune/datalog normally, without any issues. Most engines are quite sensitive to the cranking pulse widths, so you may need both pulse widths to be within about 0.5 milliseconds to start well under all conditions. Make sure you have power while cranking, otherwise you are starting on your prime pulse, and will go crazy trying to tune it, Keep the prime pulse short, less than 4.0, and ideally around 2.0, while tuning the cranking pulse widths. Make sure you are not in flood clear mode while cranking, Datalog your starting attempts using TunerStudioMS, and study them carefully, you will learn a lot, Don't use EGO feedback to guide you on cranking pulse widths, it won't help you at all, and may confuse you a lot. Instead, use your subjective sense of how long it takes the engine to start at any temperature (you are seeking to minimize this, obviously) Afterstart Enrichment: If the engine tries to start, but dies right away, you need to adjust the after start enrichment. Generally this should be between 25-45% for 100 to 250 cycles, Warmup Enrichment: If the engine starts but dies after a several seconds or minutes, then you need to adjust your warm-up enrichment. Use up to 15% greater than the defaults if that seems to help. VE Table: Adjust the values at the idle kPa and rpm to get it to idle. You want to change the VE table entries while watching the engine MAP (in kPa) to try and lower the MAP as much as possible. Do this after the engine has warmed up. As you do this, the engine rpm will rise, and you may have to adjust the throttle stop on the throttle body to lower the rpm back to the desired idle speed. Once the idle VE are tuned, you will have to retune the afterstart and warmup enrichments.

There is an Android one - MsDroid...

Garry, why don't you start another thread and maybe we can help, there aren't many ms3ers on here, but some ms2 users and plenty of ms1 and the basic principles have to be the same I would have thought...