Quagmire

Sure its not pinking/detonation? Changed the timing recently? Mine does this a little when on petrol if i'm not careful as i have mine advanced for LPG running. I have to drive around it (not through it).

Thank you Mr Fridge!

I'm 26, but have only one years no-claims due to being an idiot and bumping someone at a roundabout the year before last. I am paying about £460 for 3rd party fire and theft with the ability to drive anyone else car 3rd party with their permission. Thats on a B-Reg ragtop 90 with a 3.5. Only went up about £100 over the price i was paying for the 4 cylinder when i fitted the v8. If you talk to Flux, they give discounts for club memberships and also i think if you are a member of an internet forum related to your vehicle. I use the club member discount thing, but don't know what you need to prove if you are a forum member. Might be worth checking out....

Guys, Am fitting the closed loop LPG kit to my v8 90 and have a couple of questions about the lambda sensor... It is a VW/Audi bosch unit that looks like this: It has four wires, white, white, grey and black. From googling around it seems that the grey is likely to be the earth, the black the signal and the white wires the heater connections. Can anyone confirm this? Also, i was planning to use a relay to switch the heater connection... will the N00AW do as listed here on the maplin page? Looks ok to me. I will then have it switching on only when on LPG, or am I better having the heater on the whole time the car is running (whatever the fuel) to prevent fouling of the sensor? Maplin As a final question, is it worth installing the kit so that i can turn it on and check my petrol emissions too? How useful would it really be to have an indication of rich or lean when at idle- it could be doing all kinds of other things when i'm actually on the move... Thanks!

I'm also 6'3" - my dad has a GS. Its is driveable but is definitely a squeeze. I find my left ankle aches after a while as you have to have your foot up at such an angle when letting the clutch out, just dont get stuck in traffic! B)

Well, i've ordered one, i took the line that the lambda was needed anyway for EFI at some point so that knocks off some of the cost. We'll see how it goes. I have my fuel figures recorded for the last 4000 miles so we'll see what the real-world increase there is (if any) post-install... My figures had dropped recently due to a couple of problems i had, so my overall is currently 15mpg. Peak over this period was 22.1 mpg, and the lowest has been around 11... I had been attaining around 16mpg overall before i had the issues (self induced) with kinked hoses and dirty gas and air filters. Last two tanks were 16.44 and 15.86mpg respectively so we'll see! Thanks for all the replies

Right so the situation is this- i know I am in the Rangie forum, but figured there were more v8/LPG gurus in here: -B-Reg ragtop 90 -3.5 v8 rebuilt last November - is a 9.35:1 SD1 recon block, running 10 bolt heads and standard 3.5efi cam. -Using a 2 pin module Lucas electronic dizzy. -P6 style round airbox -Running on SU's, LPG is an open loop kit from Tinley, running a Bigas M84 vapouriser feeding via y-piece to the tinley mixer plates on each carb. Plans for the future are to: -Fit EFI and megasquirt, i have all the parts necessary on the LR side of things (have a lot of old flapper stuff around). Need to get EDIS and the squirt when funds allow. This would then allow me to run much more efficiently when on petrol and avoid drying out carb syndrome, and am hoping to be able to use a different ignition map when on LPG. So, the question is this. Are the closed loop stepper-motor type power valves worth using? I was looking at the one on Tinley, as this comes with a lambda sensor and boss, which will be needed for the EFI later. I could then let this control the mixture when on LPG, with the megasquirt providing the ignition side of things. Closed loop thingy, second down on the page here: Tinley Thanks

I am typing from my PC/Mac hybrid now- a shuttle PC running OSX... I would run Microcat from a virtual machine running XP, google "Virtualbox" its free- open source, and very, very good

Perhaps we could use a signal like this... The Signal

I run an 82 deg stat with the Kenlowe set to come on at around 88-90 degrees. As Aragorn says you should find that the fans only really kick in when you come to a stop. I drive 33 miles to work and the fan usually only comes in for the first time when i drop off the M4 and come to traffic lights, as thats when you get heatsoak. Even then, i can sit idling for 2-3 minutes before this happens sometimes. With this setup my gauge never wanders from the 12'Oclock position- LPG is quite happy to run at this temp too.

I'm 26 (the magic number) and drive a v8 90- i did the classic bump someone at a roundabout last year when they pulled away and then changed their mind... (I never even look right now until i am at the head of the queue ) I currently pay £460, third party fire and theft, with the ability to drive anyones car third party only- this is quite handy. I'm sure it would have been much cheaper with the NCB, and surprisngly only cost me about £100 more when i put the v8 in. Thats with the Flux, varied reports about them on here- my experience has been fine. My youngest brother who is 17 has recently been getting quoted something like £1900 at the cheapest to drive his 2.25 petrol series 3... That was when they would quote at all... Ouch!

I thought modern fuel was not as good as old fuel? But then i have no idea about the petro-chemical industry so could be talking poo...

Tony, If you havent found it already, try browsing around here for answers on what goes with what to make what: V8 Forum As for 3.5 heads lowering compression- Fridge is right, the only difference in heads that will impact compression is the fact that the later heads are skimmed slightly more so that they can use composite gaskets with no drop in CR. I am currently using the other way around and have a set of 4.0 10 bolt heads on my 3.5... In the RV8, the factory compression is determined by the pistons.

Is this for the 2.25? I'll take a pic of the s2 if you like before i head out for Prodigy tomorrow night , I would do it after but might not make it out alive!

Thanks guys, i'll see how i get on!

Right, so this morning i jumped into the 90 and stuck the key in the ignition, turn it through position 1 and then 2- no warning lights on dash. Weird. Turn key and engine fires as per normal, release key and engine dies. Repeat. Give up then walk to Halfords and buy some wire, a blade fuse holder and fuses and rig the coil as permanent live. Drive to work. Disconnect lead. Work. Drive home. So tomorrow i have a new switch arriving. How easy is it to change? Do i have to remove the entire column shroud, and drill the shear bolts? Or is there a better method? Any advice much appreciated.

I got this tip from another forum- use Virtualbox, its much nicer than virtual PC. I use it to run WinXp and Microcat on my PC (not Mac) that is running Leopard. Confused yet?

I drive my 3.5 90 70 miles everyday to work and back and i wouldnt change it for anything else! the rest of my office think i'm bonkers, but to me its worth it. I would hate my journey if i was stuck in a eurobox....

I get lots of friendly waves round Surrey/Hampshire from Series, Defender and Rangie Classic drivers, but then also you get the Electricity board, BT , Army and farmer type working 90/110's which you will never get a wave from. Same applies for the newer "non enthusiast" type vehicles. I learned that the worst place for a wave is Weybridge! They are all too snooty to wave back or look at you like you are mental... And before i get flamed, i grew up there so am qualified to comment There are some good series and older Defner owners round that way though.

Correction to my last post- the top two pics show the 2.25 rad This was the very reason why i had to change the 2.25 rad early(and went with a v8 one as the engine was going to be swapped a few months later) i originally had it mounted like the pics, with the cable tie type things going through the rad. I too had heard people say that it wore through but thought it would take years... It didnt, it took about 6-8 months and when it did leak it wasnt a small one. The new installation now has the fan mounted correctly to the rad frame top and bottom, and is much more secure.

Here it was with the 2.25 (but a V8 rad) And not a very good pic of how much room there is with the V8.

Mine is running a kenlowe- that went on when i had the 2.25. The engine did become much more free revving and i lost that big "whoosh" noise i used to get on acceleration. That said the 2.25 did not have a viscous and so was enagaged all the time. With the V8 the kenlowe seems to cope OK (but the '8 has not seen a summer yet though) but then i do have a nice clean block and heads, and nice new radiator for the coolant to swim around. I leave it on the lower of the two speeds and only knock it up to high speed when its really hot outside. Generally though the fan isn't on very often, only when i come off the motorway and heatsoak sets in, or when stuck in traffic. Whenever moving it isnt required and rarely comes on. Relay is definitley needed, if you leave mine on high speed and are standing near the front with the bonnet up when the fan kicks in you get a "crack" noise like when you see those high voltage tests on TV. Draws huge current on startup.

Once a had a very annoying earth fault on my front left indicator on the series2. It was so unreliable that as it was working when i arrived at my MOT i made a point of showing the nice MOT man it functioning in all its glory as i knew it would pack up later. And because it then knew that it had been beaten, it worked flawlessly for the test itself!

Well two people can *just* about lift a full V8- my dad and I managed to move this engine, a fully dressed P6 lump (and we aren't very fit ). You couldn't do that with one of the diesel lumps...

Mine used to do this, it would judder once things warmed up and did it mostly when reversing. I changed the rubber mounts on gearbox and engine and the problem went away...