Quagmire

Looks pretty good to me, I'd just change the two "15.4" values in the 1700rpm column for "14.7" instead to keep autotune pulling the cells near your idle area too lean and then giving you an oscillation.

My early 90 was a 2.25 petrol from the factory and had a facet style pump fitted, along with a filter ona bracket mounted the to outrigger behind the fuel tank and ahead of the drivers side rear wheel, it is still working to this day- so I'd say it might be worth a Google to see what the factory setup was (it's since been rehomed to a different vehicle and replaced with a V8 and efi stuff). Like this: *Edit- well that was a rubbish screenshot! Not sure why it looks blurry on here, when it's crystal clear on my phone...

If the vehicle isn't a daily and you can spend a bit of time then I'd recommend doing it yourself - i did this in the end after a few problems with reconned boxes and all has been well since (famous last words... ) There was an excellent guide on here in the tech archive which I followed (here it is), along with the workshop manuals and some random searches for specifics on this site along the way.

I'd agree with you there Bowie, I like to have more control over the transition from the idle portion of the map and into low rpms which is why I was suggesting the rescaling. I never use autotune on idle, and lock those cells off.

Hi Erik, I would suggest that you change the scaling on the afr target table to give you more resolution down at the idle end, with more columns and rows around the low rpm, low map areas. That way you can specify the targets a bit better in the parts of the map that you feel the car the most... I'd go for something like 800, 1000, 1200, 1600, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000. Likewise with the map columns, so if you car idles at 30kPa, I'd have a row for that and a few closely grouped around that with larger gaps as you move to WOT. Hope that makes sense!

Hi Erik, The theory is to set your target idle with the bypass screw to something slightly below your final desired rpm, when the idle valve is reintroduced it will let some air by even when fully closed. I run the ms1 vehicle (no valve) at about 800rpm when warm, without the valve to pickup the idle I need to give it a tiny bit of throttle for the first 30 seconds on a cold day. On my ms2 vehicle it starts, and on a cold day will idle at 1200rpm before quickly ramping down to a warm rpm of 750.

^^This - set the req_fuel using the calculator in Tunerstudio and then leave it alone, get the car started and then when its warmed up adjust the VE values in the fuel table for the idle cell and the cells immediately around it, set them to all the same value at something that makes the engine happy. To get a good idle i'd go for something between 13.5 and 14.0:1 AFR wise, see how lean you can get it before losing idle quality then add a bit of fuel back in. *edit: I have no idle valve on my MS1 install and that starts and runs just fine, and on my MS2 I use a stepper idle valve in warm up only. They won't compensate for an idle that fluctuates due to the tune, but will help with things introducing load and dropping the rpm, like winches, cooling fans etc.

Question - what is the purpose of the spark advance dropping off a cliff like that at the 1% TPS line? And is this an Alpha-N based map, not the normal Speed Density? Ok, that was two questions...

Another vote for BPR6ES here!

I have always just bought genuine fomoco coil packs secondhand with leads still attached. It's fairly straightforward to dissemble the ends from these leads and recrimp/fit them to new lengths of HT lead to suit.

Congrats! Fingers crossed for the first proper outing in it!

Looks nice! I wish I had gone for the squeeze to disconnect injector plugs, they can be a major pain to get off. Keep up the good work

+1 for this - Retro rides has a massive variety of cars on there, from all over the world. Even if there aren't any current Minor threads on there you are bound to have many previous owners popping up with advice.

^Also agree with this - both of my rv8 dailies ran SU's for many many reliable miles before i injected them. The only reason I converted was the hunt for a little more power and some extra efficiency. Oh, and I like to tinker with geeky things and fuel injection is definitely on the geekier side of car ownership. Unfortunately we all experience this when people say that Land-rovers (or anything else over 10 years old ) are "unreliable". Sure, some might be - but they will be the ones that aren't looked after properly. Carb or EFI, both will work reliably (as they did when manufactured) if they are fitted, setup and maintained properly.

^ I agree with this! The only efi related problems I've had (apart from pump failure) were due to me fiddling with things...

Try asking on v8forum.co.uk, someone will bound to have had both on there...

If you have to go carbs, then go SU's - they are cheap, dead dead simple and easy to tune (and work at angles).

I'd do a google on MSextra.com for the basic serial connection tests to see if your MS is alive on some level and responsive at all. If not, then as above its time to crack out the muiltimeter and/or call HFH.

Amazing thread revival! White letters out, that's what I had with my old BFGs

That looks like a P6 filter can sure enough - here's the one that used to be on my P6 for comparison (it's been EFI'd for a while): Never had any issues with running the same setup on my 90 either.

The P6 one is round in cross section, the Range rovers had one very similar but flatter and more oval shaped in cross section - the paper filter elements are the same as far as i know. Proper carbed Defender v8's have the carbs connected to a metal t-piece that then connects to a huge dustbin sized filter which only has a single outlet on the clean side.

I'd be wary of RPI, general consensus on the internet is that they will often flog you a Mallory distributor whether you need one or not. Try v8tuner or v8developments for parts and advice, they get much better reviews from people! Before spending loads of cash check through all the basics. High idle could be badly set carbs, or an air leak. Having no power could be lean mixture, which again *could* be related to an airleak. Doug's suggestion on seeing what the choke does is a good one. The misfire while it's warming up, is it a light miss or more like it's running a few cylinders down? Can you pinpoint if it's a specific cylinder/s?

Older 90's BMW's have the reg built into the filter, so you have just a single line running forward to the engine bay. This would work. Try googling for e39 fuel filters... The plus with this setup is that it's cheap for OEM quality parts, and the fpr should be at the right pressure for the ev6 injectors.

If it helps reduce the frost levels have a gander at the kit prices on diyautotune.com - you can get an MS2 kit for around £220, so call it ~£250 shipped and taxed. It's not hard to build one, just a bit tedious at times!

Seems like you are making progress!