Quagmire

Richard, it looks to me like you should be able to take a +12v feed, connect that to one leg of your relay coil, and connect the other leg to the wire that has been added to your MS, then you connect the old white/black wire that used to connect to the coil negative to the same place.

Ok so it looks like they have added it to use pin js3, where does the orange wire connect to, it looks like one of the spare output pins under the map sensor? Do your tach settings in Tunerstudio show js3 as the output pin?

Options 3, 4, 6 and 7 are not required - I also have a P6 like Quattro running MS2 and EDIS and my tach works fine with the relay method. These suppliers need to man up and support their client. Richard - in the meantime can you post up some pictures of both sides of your MS PCB? Then people on here can take a peek at what has been done modification wise and possibly advise.

Hey Quattro - you'll get there! These things can be a right pain in the bum sometimes. The transistor legs will be arranged as below depending on how it is packaged: I don't think the wattage of the 1k resistor is critical at all - there should be next to no current going through it, and yes 0v is earth. I should say that it's worth leaving the relay intact at first, that way you can hear it buzzing as it is rapidly powered on and off. Then you know that your source of tach signal is at least doing something. Once you are happy that everything is working, you can cut the relay open and remove the contacts, leaving just the coil.

Sorry! I should have been a bit more precise with my link- it took you to the section on tach out in the msextra manual, which covers all the methods of generating a tach signal. I used a relay coil to emulate the old ignition coil, which is the third diagram down:

Not sure what's going on but I use the tach out circuit to drive a relay with its guts removed to leave just the coil as per here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Hardware.htm#tachoout Its dead accurate!

Nice one!

It won't just be the front wheels that slip on road- i can get 4 wheel wheelspin in my 90 and that's just with my little Rover 3.5! When this happens the whole vehicle tends to start to bounce up and down as wheels spin/grip/spin/grip - when this happens it can't be doing anything any good at all... I hate to think how much the halfshafts are twisting in this scenario. I think the result withe the 6.3 will be spin/grip/*pop* instead. I do like the noise of the 6.3 though - it sounds evil. If you do carry on with the conversion please post it up! Good luck

You seem to be competent enough so far from what I have seen on this thread!

I did the Reborn tour when they were doing series ones, our guide had worked on the Defender line for a loooong time and he said the same. They were too labour intensive to build.

Another vote for Britcar here.

When it's closed does it actually push on the brake pedal or just touch it? Mine has a slight gap (~10mm) when closed between it and bulkhead, but I couldn't get it any closer as I am actually applying the brakes when I close it. Mine does fold back ok though.

That sounds... a bit wrong if i'm honest!

Result!

I have Ms2 - which as far as i know has the same map size as Ms3. I hacked a cheap bluetooth adaptor and use my phone with MSDroid for logging/viewing and the odd tweak. The laptop only ever comes out now when i need to do a bit of VEAL or something more involved. Could be a good halfway house? My Ms2 definitely *feels* better than my Ms1 - but this could just be that I have spent a lot more time tuning it, as the Ms2 is on my daily. As long as the 90 (which has the Ms1) starts reliably, drives pretty well and doesn't do terribly on fuel that's fine for a weekend car. However - if you want to go Ms3 then do it! Its a thread I would definitely read, and sometimes the most fun things are the stuff you do just for the hell of it.

well, going from MS1 to MS3 gets you 2 extra whatsits obviously

If the doodah says you have a knackered water temp sensor then that will definitely make it run rich, so I'd change that as a first step. *Edit- just re-read your post again. So you have changed the water temp sensor and it's still overfuelling?

Bowie beat me! My 2.25 powered 90 was fitted with the equivalent of one of these from the factory: http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/facet-fuel-pumps/facet-cylindrical-pump-12v-24v/ you only need the basic spec version. The pump has done zillions of miles with no issue, infact it lives on as a low pressure pump feeding the swirl pot on my daily. Here's a copy of the Facet on Paddocks. http://www.paddockspares.com/prc3901-fuel-pump-ecternal-electric.html

Chaps, I was browsing retrorides and came across a mention of this: https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Speeduino It uses (as you might guess) an Arduino as the base, and can be tuned with Tunerstudio. Thoughts?

does it idle ok?

We did the opposite to what is proposed in this thread and fitted the later manifold and carb setup from a "2.3" to the 2.25 in a series. All bolted straight on. The exhaust had to be tickled with the grinder and glued back together with the welder though as it fouled the gearbox mount.

Cutting out as in : Dropping stone dead, and you cannot get above that rev range or as in it is missing heavily but is ok once you get above 2000rpm? If the first i would check silly things like rev limiters, overrun fuel cut etc to make sure that you haven't accidentally set some funny trigger conditions on them. If the second I would check soft rev-limit settings, check your spark and fuel tables still look reasonable. Check your air, coolant and map sensors are giving decent values too.

I do love a 2.25 petrol, and can only imagine that the 2.5 must be the same but better (although i have never come across one in the flesh). I will be watching this with interest - keep posting the updates as they happen *edit - are you dressing it to look like a series 2.25 or the 2.25 (aka 2.3) in the early coilers? My 90 had the 2.25 fitted when I first bought it, was a great engine just a bit slow to pick up speed when merging onto a motorway.

Just a thought - do you have spark on all 8 plugs? I just say this as I have just had another EDIS coilpack failure last week. It doesn't happen often considering I always buy used coils, about 4 failures in the last 9 years, 5 of those years the 90 was my daily. When they go they vary between fine one minute and dead the next or (luckily for me this time) they give an annoying misfire under load but the car will still run. I say lucky as I was driving through the M3 "Smart motorway" upgrade on the way to work. Driving along wondering if you are about to come to a grinding halt with no hard shoulder is no fun at all... *edit - even with outright coilpack failure you will still usually have a running engine, albeit one that sounds like a tractor, will barely rev, and wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding.

Is your MAP hose properly connected? - that will cause a load of fuel to be dumped in if it comes off.