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evanmc last won the day on March 24 2018

evanmc had the most liked content!

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    Tucson, AZ

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  1. It ended up being a bum switch. With a second new one, things work as expected. Now if I could just get rid of those oil stains on the bricks and the trail leading to my house on the street... -Evan-
  2. I will try to turn the engine over a bit when my oil order gets here. in my test where I bypassed the switch and the bulb did illuminate, I ran a wire directly to the negative post of the battery.
  3. Perhaps it is just a bum switch -- as it failed the same continuity test out of the vehicle it passed before installation. Probably, maybe. Block is definitely earthed.
  4. And indeed, when I connect the white/brown wire directly to ground, the light illuminates, However, now I have no continuity through the switch that had continuity when I tested prior to installation. Argh. No, no ptfe tape on the threads..
  5. OK thanks, I did install the new switch, but things still aren't quite working. I see 3.7V on the white/brown wire leading to the pressure switch -- that doesn't seem right. I still have a bit more investigation here, it looks like. Yes, and now I have a bit of mess on my drive to deal with tried several methods (dawn, simple green, something called oil eater, a blowtorch on the bricks) and nothing is completely effective.
  6. 1985 110 2.5NA Problems that are probably my fault. The oil plug on the sump came off, resulting in me leaving a trail, making it very clear whose house has the leaky vehicle. I probably didn't torque the plug properly, so I did install a replacement and double checked the torque. I have attached a pic for your amusement. While I was spewing oil everywhere, I never saw the oil pressure warning light illuminate, and now I realize that I had been ignoring the fact that it was not illuminated when I turned the ignition on, so now I want to get thins to work. I am certainly not well versed in troubleshooting electrics, but clearly I am missing something. The oil pressure switch has no continuity, but is normally open, right? (A replacement did have continuity...) But, the single wire that was hooked to the sender actually had power on it -- it's just supposed to be a ground. correct? Perhaps it was just mis-wired when I got it? Thanks, -Evan-
  7. I finally got a chance to put my engine back together and things seem much better now. No oil must coming out of the rocker cover, certainly. I will check the compression after a break in period. Didn't get a chance to do that yesterday. But I do notice more black smoke when I accelerate than I saw before -- can I expect this diminish a bit after things have broken in a bit? -Evan-
  8. And the copy I am using for the shop manual does not give torque values for the 2.5NA conrod and main bearing caps. Am I to use the values for the 2.25? 27-30 lb/ft and 96-100 lb/ft respectively? Thanks, -Evan-
  9. I received my order today, but it looks like the pistons I ordered, ETC6442 are not available, and they supplied the TD versions, ETC8670. I take it these are compatible parts? Also, how concerned should I be with measuring piston protrusion? -Evan-
  10. The two pistons that showed cracks showed them right to the edge. No cracks seen in the other two -- just surface damage on the face. Turner engineering had them for a decent price, so I'll just replace all four.
  11. The sides look fine. Some minor wear, but nothing major scuffing. Some minor scuffing on the sides But, I might have spoken too soon on the piston heads looking OK. When I cleaned them up, I see the faintest of cracks on two of them. Not sure how well this comes out in the pic. See there just below the V? I measured the cylinders fo roundness. Two disclaimers -- first day with the telescoping gauge and micrometer, and I only measured once. Things came to an abrupt halt when I dropped my gauge in the cylinder and can't get the out. Have to wait until I have a helper. The shop manual indicates a max of 0.0015"
  12. OK, I finally have the pistons out, and the bearings are worn down to the copper in several places. The pistons look OK, although I'm not sure what I am looking for -- no obvious cracks, certainly. But given the damage I show in the pictures above, should I consider replacing them as well? As for the main bearings, I don't quite understand how I can check the bearings there with the crankshaft in place.
  13. And one piston bears the marks of hitting the hot plug. -Evan-
  14. I finally had the time to take the head off -- the gasket is has some bad spots, certainly, but the unexpected find was cracks in the hotplugs. Each one of them had cracks. No cracks were on the head of the pistons, although the surface of two of them was beat up a bit. They come out next. -Evan-
  15. Oh, I thought I could tell the difference between the problems with the rings and a valve with that test -- clearly, I need to do some more reading.
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