evanmc

Should have disassembled before I ordered off the parts fiche. The switch does not have shear bolts, and is not attached directly to the steering column. Also, there are no screws to hold in the electrical bits. It's ex-MOD, if that makes a difference.

I'll check again, then. I felt around the barrel and did not feel them. Hoping to avoid messing with the shear bolts that holds it in place, but may have no choice.

1985 110 2.5NA I need a bit of help here replacing a component of the ignition switch for my 110. Specifically, how to remove the old component and attach the new one. Can this be done in-place, or do I need to remove the entire assembly and perform this on the bench? (Replacing NRC3908) Thanks -Evan-

I just installed these in my 110 -- matches the original look. https://www.headlightrevolution.com/Sealed-Beam-Holley-RetroBright-LED-Headlights-7-Round?quantity=1 -Evan-

1985 2.5NA 110 Sorting through getting a my radiator back in place... The one I took out has a straight top inlet, but when I look at in the parts manual for nrc6889, I see the inlet has a 90 degree bend in it (to the left if you are facing the vehicle with the radiator installed) As I was quoted US$700 for a recore, I am considering just getting a new one, but I also assume I would need to get part ERC8757 to get the proper orientation (?) and get a new hose nrc6404? Thanks, -Evan-

Just got it open. As the collision was at a low speed, damage was minimal to the vehicle. The radiator was just pushed from its mount, so I can probably just install a new one. As for the hood -- the skin has been separated from the frame a bit on one side at the front of the hood. Guidance here is appreciated. Can I just hammer it back into shape? The complication here is that the bent portion is above some more framing, so I can't put (I don't know the correct term for the body tool) something behind it to bang against.

It came that way to me, and I just never took it off. (Its ex-MOD, right-hand drive) Here in Arizona, the requirement is just a rear plate. Not sure what the previous owner used to attach the front plate to the bumper -- it would be a bit of a mess to clean up if I took it off. -Evan-

Here in the desert area of arizona, fortunately, things don't rust much at all. Having said that, I've been wanting to address the bulkhead rust that came with the 110 for quite a while (perhaps something from YRM). Perhaps I can just beat the hood back in place -- the portion that is damaged is not where the frame is, so that may be the easiest approach. -Evan-

No, far from it. I certainly don't want sympathy over some bent metal. I certainly feel bad about causing pain, and will not pass judgement on them for stopping in the middle of the road. I certainly was paying attention. Actually, what I wanted advice on was what I mentioned. I have no experience with bent aluminum body parts. I am assuming that the hood really can't be straightened out with a satisfying result so replacement is my only option. -Evan-

It was a couple -- she left in the ambulance -- he stayed behind and tended to the bike (which could still be started, moved, etc.) I think they took her away out of an abundance of caution.

Couldn't stop in time to avoid hitting a motorcycle that had come to a complete halt in the traffic lane (5 lane road with center turn lane.) Anyway, here's the result. Looks like I will end up replacing: - Grill - Radiator - Bonnet - Frame around grill - Brace behind grill The hood/bonnet is bent up just a bit, so I can't get it open to see if there is more damage inside the engine bay -- I am assuming that bending it back in shape won't yield a great result (?) Better to replace? That leads me to the next mod. Perhaps now is a good time to move the spare tire to a swing-away arm on the back (?) Thanks, -Evan-

It ended up being a bum switch. With a second new one, things work as expected. Now if I could just get rid of those oil stains on the bricks and the trail leading to my house on the street... -Evan-

I will try to turn the engine over a bit when my oil order gets here. in my test where I bypassed the switch and the bulb did illuminate, I ran a wire directly to the negative post of the battery.

Perhaps it is just a bum switch -- as it failed the same continuity test out of the vehicle it passed before installation. Probably, maybe. Block is definitely earthed.

And indeed, when I connect the white/brown wire directly to ground, the light illuminates, However, now I have no continuity through the switch that had continuity when I tested prior to installation. Argh. No, no ptfe tape on the threads..

OK thanks, I did install the new switch, but things still aren't quite working. I see 3.7V on the white/brown wire leading to the pressure switch -- that doesn't seem right. I still have a bit more investigation here, it looks like. Yes, and now I have a bit of mess on my drive to deal with tried several methods (dawn, simple green, something called oil eater, a blowtorch on the bricks) and nothing is completely effective.

1985 110 2.5NA Problems that are probably my fault. The oil plug on the sump came off, resulting in me leaving a trail, making it very clear whose house has the leaky vehicle. I probably didn't torque the plug properly, so I did install a replacement and double checked the torque. I have attached a pic for your amusement. While I was spewing oil everywhere, I never saw the oil pressure warning light illuminate, and now I realize that I had been ignoring the fact that it was not illuminated when I turned the ignition on, so now I want to get thins to work. I am certainly not well versed in troubleshooting electrics, but clearly I am missing something. The oil pressure switch has no continuity, but is normally open, right? (A replacement did have continuity...) But, the single wire that was hooked to the sender actually had power on it -- it's just supposed to be a ground. correct? Perhaps it was just mis-wired when I got it? Thanks, -Evan-

I finally got a chance to put my engine back together and things seem much better now. No oil must coming out of the rocker cover, certainly. I will check the compression after a break in period. Didn't get a chance to do that yesterday. But I do notice more black smoke when I accelerate than I saw before -- can I expect this diminish a bit after things have broken in a bit? -Evan-

And the copy I am using for the shop manual does not give torque values for the 2.5NA conrod and main bearing caps. Am I to use the values for the 2.25? 27-30 lb/ft and 96-100 lb/ft respectively? Thanks, -Evan-

I received my order today, but it looks like the pistons I ordered, ETC6442 are not available, and they supplied the TD versions, ETC8670. I take it these are compatible parts? Also, how concerned should I be with measuring piston protrusion? -Evan-

The two pistons that showed cracks showed them right to the edge. No cracks seen in the other two -- just surface damage on the face. Turner engineering had them for a decent price, so I'll just replace all four.

The sides look fine. Some minor wear, but nothing major scuffing. Some minor scuffing on the sides But, I might have spoken too soon on the piston heads looking OK. When I cleaned them up, I see the faintest of cracks on two of them. Not sure how well this comes out in the pic. See there just below the V? I measured the cylinders fo roundness. Two disclaimers -- first day with the telescoping gauge and micrometer, and I only measured once. Things came to an abrupt halt when I dropped my gauge in the cylinder and can't get the out. Have to wait until I have a helper. The shop manual indicates a max of 0.0015"

OK, I finally have the pistons out, and the bearings are worn down to the copper in several places. The pistons look OK, although I'm not sure what I am looking for -- no obvious cracks, certainly. But given the damage I show in the pictures above, should I consider replacing them as well? As for the main bearings, I don't quite understand how I can check the bearings there with the crankshaft in place.

And one piston bears the marks of hitting the hot plug. -Evan-

I finally had the time to take the head off -- the gasket is has some bad spots, certainly, but the unexpected find was cracks in the hotplugs. Each one of them had cracks. No cracks were on the head of the pistons, although the surface of two of them was beat up a bit. They come out next. -Evan-