Jonners

Gents, Thanks to those who replied. So far we have changed the intermediate fuel pump & filter (the one by the back wheel). Problem solved, so we thought. 3 days later problem occured again. Fault code reader said low pressure in fuel line. So, looked at fuel injectors & found problems at idle & 2 that broke down under pressure. So got all 4 injectors rebuilt. Ran like a spring chicken for 30 miles, then refused to start. Back to square 1 as it is running fine once started. But I now have a lack of trust in the motor as I am sure it will all happen again. I can only think it is an electrical fault as it is so randomly intermittent. Any further ideas? Cheers - Jonners.

Cheers Guys, The more I think about it you could both be right. Anyway it's out of my hands now - it carked it last night so my son towed it to the garage. I wish I knew more about diesels !!!!! Let you know what happens. Jonners

Cheers Steve - I wil check it out - Jonners

OK, no advice yet. So can I appeal to the engine tek's out there:- Obviously my fault is caused by the transition from cold to a warm engine as the temperature climbs. What controls the temperature transition on a diesel engine? (not had one before) rather like a choke would on a petrol engine. Is there a sensor that can be cleaned/replaced. I should say the EGR is removed & blanked off so that can't be the problem, plus all the filters were replaced at the last service last June. Look forward to your advice.

Happy New Year Folks My TD4 has developed a worrying fault (34000 miles on clock) - Starts fine and runs normally for first mile or so, then engine misfires until temp gauge gets near normal. Then it runs well as usual. This only happens on cold wet, or frosty days and no fault lights show. This problem only occurs occasionally then runs fine for a few weeks until the next time. Any ideas? Cheers Jonners

Hi Pat, I read something recently about being able to pull out the sensors and cleaning them up. Worth a try before buying (a) new ones. Jonners

I had exactly the same fault recently on a motorbike I am rebuilding. It was a faulty starter solenoid. Apparently the internal contacts get coated with carbon. No option but to replace it. You could also check the battery earth to the body. Hope this helps - Jonners

Hi All, Just replaced the front disc pads on the above at 34k. Nearside pads were almost knackered but offside were only about half worn. I then checked the rear brake shoes as I was suspicious of a problem. Same again - twice the wear on the nearside than the offside. Brakes work well and it does not pull to the left under heavy braking. Seems to me this is not right, they should all wear more or less evenly - Any ideas? Cheers - Jonners

Hiya, The manual says that the front wheel arch liners are held in with 3 screws (at the rear edge) and a total of 8 scrivets (plastic rivets). If the screws are missing or some of the scrivets have broken I guess it would put a strain on those left at it could easily work loose. Cheers - Jonners

Hi Johnyc, I don't entirely believe some of the fuel figures bandied around, but I feel 350 miles on a tank full on a TD4 should be more like 400 miles. Mine uses quite a lot of fuel around town but achieves 37 to 40mpg on a motorway run from Cheltenham to Devon. Regarding the diesel smell, my TD4 was the same when I bought it, but cleaning up all the pipes aroung the engine (covered in oil mist) seemed to get rid of it. Obvious mileage problems could be the need to replace the MAF ( seems a common problem at about 50,000 miles or so) or simply a clean up of of the EGR - perhaps even replacing it with a blanking kit, plus a clean up inside all the EGR hoses, new air filter etc. Hope this works - Jonners

Hi Mark, By stand down I guess you mean the depth of the valve face below the port face. The manual does not give a value for this on petrol engines, only for diesels. So I would think this is not an issue providing the following values are not exceeded during a head regrind:- The manual states Overall cylinder head height = 118.95 to 119.05mm Reface limit = 0.2mm Max acceptable head face distortion = 0.05mm There is also a value given for the amount that the end of the valve stem protrudes above the face it protrudes from. When new = 38.93 to 39.84mm Service limit = 40.10mm (assume this means after lapping in, or recutting the seat & lapping) Cheers - John N

Hi Mark, The manual only gives values for:- Overall head thickness = 118.95 to 119.05mm Reface limit (I guess that means regrind limit) = 0.2mm (0.0078 thou in old english) Max gasket face distortion = 0.05mm It also gives a value for the installed height of the valve when measured from the end of the stem to the face of the head where the stem protrudes from. = 38.93 to 39.84 when new & service limit is 40.10mm ie. max after recutting the seat. It does not give a value for the stand down below the mating face of the head. Since the manual gives a value for the stand own or recess limit for a Diesel engine valve, but not for a Petrol engine valve, I guess that the value that you want is not critical on a petrol engine due to the port depth being greater, as long as the head thickness and regrind limits are not exceeded. (my thinking - not the manual). Cheers - Jonners

Hi Mark, Now I am at a loss to suggest what next. Sticky valve action perhaps. Timing checked and OK, so what else is there? You have beaten me - hope it does not beat you. Be interested to hear where you go with this. Regards - Jonners

Hi Mark, I can only suggest that everything you can now see (now the head is removed) is checked thoroughly:- Head and block checked for warping. Any scoring in the bores. Is a piston holed. Any signs of gas leakage between the bores under the gasket - same for head. Are the valves seated properly - even perhaps a small chip in the valve or seat. Excessive clearance in the valve guides. I guess you know all this - just trying to help out. If this is a pre 2000 1.8 Freelander your mention of metal dowels suggests the head has been off before as I think at this time the K series head used plastic dowels. Another trick the MG people used to use on the MGF(same K series engine) was to drill a 1/8" diameter hole in the flange of the thermostat to allow some cooling fluid to bypass the thermostat at the get go and reduce the thermal shock to the head when the thermostat opened and suddenly allowed hot fluid to enter a cold head. Lastly I would have the head skimmed anyway. Hope this helps - Jonners

Hi Mark, Seems it's time to take the head off and examine everything thoroughly. Bad news but not too bad a job. Regards - Jonners

Hi Mark - obvious answer, but possibly the head gasket. Sounds like you will have to take the head off to resolve the problem anyway. Could be a sticky or bent valve/broken piston ring. Can't think of anything else that would cause compression loss if the cambelt is OK. Good luck - Jonners

Hi Gents, Just a suggestion, but this makes me think alternator with an intermittent fault. We had all this on my son's car recently. It wasn't until the alternator packed up completely that the problem became obvious. Hope this helps. - Jonners

Hi Ruggerbugger, welcome to the potential world of Freelander ownership. I was in the same position as you a year ago, wanted one, but was concerned by the possible problems highlighted on 4x4 forums. I bought a TD4 Manual and have not looked back since. Absolutely no major problems (had to replace an alternator, that could happen on any car) and am loving it. I would always look for the lowest mileage you can find in your price range and a full service history. It's true that the manual version is noticeably more economical, but the auto is nice to drive (my son has one). They are also relatively easy to work on. Spares are plentiful and not too expensive except for the really important bits. LR ownership will bring you into an interesting and friendly world, with new places and scenes to visit at weekends even if you don't offroad. Yes they are slow, heavy and old fashioned in feel, but there is something that makes them grow on you. The biggest problem is that you start wanting a Disco or a Defender to do up as well. Good luck in your search.

Hi Tim, As an old git who remembers the term " Fan Belt " I also remember that if you are getting a shreiking sound when you accelerate, then it could be that your water pump bearings are on the way out. There are usually signs of coolant leaking out of the bottom of the water pump. Jonners

Cheers SnipeMike, that site answers a lot of questions & they are close enought to go and see them once I get some wheels.

I would appreciate some expert help with wheel & tyre sizing for my 06 plate TD4. I have been looking for a cost effective (cheap) set of secondhand wheels for my Hipposaurus to fit some winter tyres. My current alloys are 16" fitted with 215/65 R16 tyres. I can find 16" alloys no problem and understand the need for wheel spacers if they come off an early model TD4. But, none local to Cheltenham or cheap enough. So, i thought steel wheels, even if they need some dressing up. All I can find are 15" or 17", both of which I assume would affect the speedo reading, but seem readily available for freelanders. What do people do? fit 15" rims with larger profile tyres, or 17" with standard profiles and ignore the difference. Any advice gratefully received - Thanks - Jonners.

Our thanks for the advice - It did indeed turn out to be the MAF sensor. Even when cleaned is obviously knackered. Scrapyard first, then application for a mortgage to pay for a new one. Cheers - Jonners

Thanks Chaps, Useful info here. The MAF swap is a great idea & we can always clean it up anyway, to see if it makes any difference. Thanks again for assistance - Jonners

Thanks FF, saw your other posts on similar power loss issues. Looks like we need a day under the bonnet to check everything thoroughly. Notice you mentioned the MAF. Is it true that these tend to be unreliable, even after minimal mileage? Cheers - Jonners

Hi Chaps, I have an 06 plate TD4 with a manual gearbox (30k miles) and my son has an 05 TD4 with an auto box (50k miles). Both cars run well and are fitted with EGR blanking kits. Both average similar MPG's in general use with the Autobox returning a slightly lower average which is correct according to the values given in the manual. So everything seems to be in order. However, my sons car loses power rapidly on reaching a long uphill incline and gets left way behind. As we are both relatively new to Freelander ownership we wondered if this lack of power is a known characteristic of the TD4 auto and if not, then can anyone suggest possible remedies? We have checked all the filters and cleaned up the inlet pipes etc. when the EGR blanking kit was fitted. The intercooler hose is not holed. Look forward to your replies - Jonners