davie

I have two different lights from mud stuff and they are great - lil expensive but well worth it

i have a charger in 2003 td5 same dash and best thing i reckon was take out cigarette lighter and got a double one for there, also does volts for batt perfect fit have to effectively screw into hole its as snug and a locking ring on back. charges iphone xr no worries with a super demanding app running - actually works better than portable battery pack to keep up and its same cable

yeah me too. next is new battery i think as screen is bit temperamental to low volts, had battery tested but wasnt 100% conclusive 80% charge and 75% capacity i do an incredible amount of short runs in a day around estate at work and commute is less than 2 miles 4 times a day has seemed a lil tired cranking by mid week and gets a decent run most saturdays to refresh. battery i guess is 8 yrs old so no shame. have done chassis earths renewed and cleaned etc to make sure had best chance and alternator is kicking out a healthy 14 plus when running

UPDATE so i read the info from western, had more coffee and read it again.... armed with a wire colour and some dangerous thoughts like of course oil pressure switch supplies the oil pressure warning light on dash (i hope) headed out to car and by some miracle the correct wire in bundle supplying dash lights has a stripped section with remains of some solder so its re connected now and you hear the idle drop a fraction as screen kicks in so its drawing load Really appreciate the help for this thanks

scrolling through and found this - where would i find such a feed on 2003 td5 90 behind dash? this could solve my issue i think, electrical idiot so clear wire colour advice is awesome please

i did have a look at that thanks western, need brain to wake up more and i am really poor with electrics. video shows me taking a meter reading off the broken wire coming from pin 6 with screen on, starts around 11.50 in the 20v setting and appears to count down to 0 but when i probe screen tab its nice steady 12.99 with car running and sidelights on its like pin 6 is counting down and when reaches 0 screen switches off what function would the pin 6 to oil pressure switch have, earthed there?

And discovered why I can’t load video, phone took hi res so too large

So I have a bit of a puzzle on my hands with my heated front screen on 2003 td5 defender was running new aerial cable through dash area and somehow managed to hook a wire and break it, have traced back to pin 6 on the genuine parts timer relay used when fitted years ago. wire was taped to bundle of earths and other wires from behind stereo area once battery is charged a bit screen works with this disconnected which is odd when I have engine running and screen off wire reads 0.0 on meter engine running and press button for heated front screen meter shows around 11.50 but it counts down to below 5 and screen switches off seems to count quick have a video but not sure how to upload it

Thanks Fridge - that would explain why i can press switch and it illuminates and then turns off but after a sit and idle time with no load on its happy.

awesome thanks folks Now for the next fun question - heated front screen in 2003 td5 90 csw, seems to be having voltage issues in terms of i do a fair old bit of short runs daily which i know is bad for battery, then weekly a decent run. using a landrover sets of relay etc would it be logical that when main battery is low just after a start it cuts off quick? let it run ten mins and its fine.

Looking for somebody who maybe has a 2003 ish td5 90 dash in bits to get a hole measured or maybe knows it - being cheeky/lazy and not opening mine up if i can avoid it the hole for cigarette lighter socket once existing unit is out - does anyone know diameter of it please? looking to fit a twin usb socket with volt gauge in it and need hole size first

yeah gave him a shout to say glad he was able to help. been using him for lots of years now. glad he got you sorted!

ahh you got a loan of yasmine ian aka tich is a good guy so be fine there

has this been sorted? know 3 if not 4 good garages not far from aberdeen and i am not far away in banchory with all tools needed - sure a local garage will have one in stock or able to get one asap try caldwell and dempster banchory north east four by four near stonehaven mann automotive near laurencekirk - although north east four by four does get parts from there too greenbank four by four outside aberdeen

very expensive lockdowns.... mud pod, roof light bar and two side facing lights into 90 various odds and sods to do that, boy wiring and connectors adds up! nice set milwaukee tools - 3/8 impact wrench, drill, cordless screwdriver, right angle impact wrench and new battery rattle gun

just fitted a month or two ago a roller door, needs 300mm above and we left 320 which was tight but worked. As somebody said you can get a box and stick door outside if needed to increase height. am sure a talented person could stick box above roof level to use all height and make waterproof with some joinery work to help hide.

i had been told its not a good plan as each battery has its own health as such. what i did on my 90 was stick an anderson socket on main batt so its easy to connect to from outside seatbox. having said that i stuck my 90 on charge at rear anderson socket off aux batt - split charge - main batt for 12 hrs a week and no ill effect. if i was being smart/less lazy i would disconnect aux batt from main after fitting anderson socket to main in an easy to reach spot, and do one charge on aux, one charge on main per week.

i must stick up for ASHTRANS, had a gearbox done by them and its perfect. Had a transmission box from them and i killed it good and proper, did take me over 100k miles to manage that and it was a lot of abusive driving on my part so they do really good products. didnt use them for replacement trans box but that was totally me being impatient and got elsewhere as i really needed car faster but when i break next box i will be trying them first as trust quality totally. the advice and support given whenever messaged or called has been great.

so i just looked at an email dentist sent me for an appointment in a weeks time, omg may as well say please provide life history and every single medical issue since born. so i stopped and didnt complete it, they were asking covid specific questions last time i visited and i was totally ok with that, all be it akward as its seriously badly designed as i have to tick yes to in contact with a covid positive person every time due to voluntary work - what it doesnt ask is was i wearing required ppe so i have to choose, lie and get dental treatment or be honest and dont. thats not a good system sent dentist email to see, who gets data, why such a massive info request, what happens if i ignore chunks of it

Wont pretend to understand all of that but its one of the best internet posts on this i have seen to date and clarifies a lot of stuff.

i would be very surprised if not repairable - cant remember which model we have but it got rebuilt by us easily and cheaply. Dremel are almost built to be repaired. we got an exploded parts diagram off internet and just googled bits, was painless

so some random thoughts having driven the new defender all on road for couple thousand miles and i guess couple hundred in a 19 plate evoque the evoque is god awful, sits too low on motorway and is seriously too complex on the touch screen - who needs so many options on a seat alone i wonder... have to say liked the heads up display of speed, only cause the dash is too small and obscured by steering wheel. adaptive cruise control is weird but actually really nice to use. revs too long in each gear. boot space sucks too small no fridge cubby box, and split lid so fiddly new defender is definetly a big car - lil too big and long in front for town junctions i hate the roof rack box on side is stupid, obscures drivers side mirror no cooled seats but ac is great fridge cubby box is great boot space is nice so would i have defender or evoque - defender for sure but i want to test off road and with a good heavy trailer but not allowed sadly.

I return to work in the morning, all be it in a slightly different temporary role as the person who normally does it is high risk so sheilding. spending 5 days a week on a large ride on lawn mower over a reasonable chunk of our area so working and travelling alone, using phone to check in for lone working management. bit odd as was well into project of fitting mini mud pod into defender ( slow as electrics isnt my thing) but thats now back to weekend work. in background on call for 4 night shifts a week in a patient transfer service for last week almost since gone live - havent been used yet but with a considerable spike in our region that may change. be really sad when alarm goes in morning - havent had one in weeks.

so i built the circuit today on bench - aka coffee table using a battery charger in place of battery live/earth and after some rude words it worked almost fine - only difference i could see was i ran a wire from live battery to sidelight pin on switch so was just on, normally this would i assume work when i had a sidelight on. then i took it apart pin by pin and listed stuff so i could do in car later. excuse wording its what made sense to me mixed in with some info from carling wiring off mud site. So I have, Earth from light to bulkhead bolt, used as earth Live from light to 87 on relay Live Inc fuse from batt to 30 on relay Earth from batt to 85 on relay 86 on relay to switch terminal two, which is power out Pin 2 linked to 3 on switch (carling say to do) Live from battery to pin 1 on switch, which is power in Pin 7 on switch to earth at fuse box bolt Pin 8 on switch to side light live so god knows why in blue

just found info on lights, each is 18 watt