Jump to content

leejunfan1

Getting Comfortable
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Defender 200 TDI 1991 After many hours fault finding, the rear screen is drawing over 6Amps with engine off. I have removed the fuse and now the drain has gone, i have found a few bits on Google about it but none confirm if my year of defender has a relay for it that could be causing the short. Pulling the switch still leaves the drain. If there is a relay, where is it and what part number is it, any pics would help? Any info would be much appreciated!
  2. If yours has the Dim/Dip relay, it will be behind the speedo binnacle, easy to get to, i thought my 1991 200TDi dim/dim relay went, bought one just in case, took binnacle off and no relay, it was the "indicator,horn,stalk,switch unit" in the end, went for a Lucas one this time.
  3. I know this has been mentioned many times but just need to clarify which way to do the bolts on the master cylinder bolt. OK after taking off the 6 screws covering the master cylinder, if my pedal is high, do the nuts need to go towards the bulkhead or away from it to lower the pedal? I changed the master cylinder a month ago and measured the lock nuts to same as the old one, but i think they may have moved as i was putting it back in as the wiring went through the frame holding the cylinder so could not take it out the engine bay. I have not driven it for a while as it had main beam issues, they are fixed but straight after change all was fine on journeys, but on Sunday was in heavy traffic, doing stop starts and then tried to accelerate and had a bit of clutch slip, this soon stopped and was fine with normal flowing driving. So from searching have found it must need adjusting bit just want to do it once and loosen/tighten the nuts in the right direction. Thanks for your time!
  4. Mine went same way 2 weeks ago, changed side light switch, no change, fiddled with the main/beam\horn\indicator\flash switch and dipped beam cam on, the switch was a brit part one as it did not have the copper bar across it which i fitted 2 years ago, replaced with a lucas one and now all good. I did have a blown bulb which might have cause too much current to flow through melting the switch. I also did not have a dim/dip relay and mine is a 1991 200TDi defender 90.......
  5. All fitted, the bolts have a blob of weld holding them to the mid-pipe plate, which moves so you can line it up with the fixed plate of the replacement rear silencer, took me a while to work out, it had rusted in position and after a few choice words because it would not line up. A tap with a hammer loosened it so i could line it up. Put some exhaust paste on to be sure but looks like there were none there originally. Hardest part was the new mounting rubbers, had to put them in boiling water to loosen them up and then used Vaseline to get them into place. On looking at the old exhaust it has loads of small holes in it on the pipe and box, so needed doing.
  6. Ordered the silencer, rubber mounts and replacement nuts from Paddock, no idea if they will arrive tomorrow on express, rang up and they said all ready to go today, then 5 minutes later someone else from Paddocks rings up and says mounts are out of stock and they will send tomorrow, then after putting the phone down get an email saying it has been shipped. Their website still shows all as stock items. Don't think i will use them again, used them twice both times with issues......
  7. Thanks Recovery Man, that is a useful parts site! Can i use any stainless steel bolt, or do they have to be special bolts and i take it from the picture no gasket is requireed?
  8. ESR254 - Rear Tailpipe and Silencer - 90 200TDI (1990-1993) Took the Defender for MOT on Saturday and it passed with an advisory on the rear tailpipe as it was pitted and as the wife is away for the weekend thought i might as well use the time productively without getting moaned at. So i thought i would change the rear silencer out with this http://www.paddockspares.com/esr254-rear-t...-1993.html I know it will probably need new nuts and Paddocks say that the central pipe it connects to has the bolts built in, does anyone know if that is correct? But i am not sure if there are any gaskets in between if so anyone know what the part number is or is it just a case of using the tube stuff. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy