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  1. 5th gear?!?!?!?! whats one of them? lol but got her done there was a load of old threadlock in the threads. cleaned it out as best i could and bolt still wouldnt tighten up enough to clamp the washer,, so shortened the bolt a smidge. Done it up to 200NM on the torque wrench, and then some more with a breaker bar. seems nicely tightened down now. surprisingly, the handbrake managed to hold it against the scaffold bar i had to undo it aswell
  2. ideal ta. what'd be the best way to tighten it up? starter off and stick prybar in to hold it still, or put it in gear and torque it up? cheers
  3. would it do it off a 1/2" drive socket? (as im at uni at the minute, and dont have the 3/4" drive to hand, with the hefty breaker bar.) also, before i take it off, whats the best way of getting it on and torqued? or would it really matter? as i say, the crank pulley is solid, the torsional damper is solid - could i leave as is, and just stick some silicon to the washer to stop the rattle? cheers
  4. I got a tin of it, and its quite thick stuff - i planned on spraying til i saw it. But i just slapped it on all over, and i think on the tin it said the optimum thickness of underseal was about 3mm...
  5. Not having cleaned it out sounds about right - the belt has been changed in it. Right, i'll get it sorted asap then - thanks for advice Am i right in thinking its a reverse thread? And as a long shot, i dont suppose vibration will be reduced by having the damper & pulley firmed down to a proper torque? - be something to look forward to haha Cheers, Mikey
  6. Hi, I've a 200 tdi in a Series 3, and since ive had the engine, the washer behind the crank pulley bolt has had play in it, and rattles. I've done getting on for 800 miles in it since buying it, and the bolt hasnt come loose, and the pulley has been solid the whole time. Does anyone know why its loose? - Would it be the torsional damper is buggered, and has allowed play, or would it have just come loose at some point? Basically, should i just tighten it up and leave it, or is there a way to know whether the damper is knackered? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
  7. Fitted the new genuine one this weekend - thats done the trick! Working fine now Thanks chaps.
  8. I was just reluctant to buy and change the sender unless i was sure it was this at fault - but as when the 200 tdi sender (original & genuine) was connected up, it still showed no change on the gauge, let alone a too-high reading, i thought that the odds of having 2 faulty senders were fairly slim. But, it seems like this is the only/next step?!.. So i'll order another, and try that...
  9. Sorry, should have been clearer. I have a Series 3 sender fitted (with the thread adapter) to the engine, all connected up to the standard Series 3 gauges. I simply tried the 200 sender that came out of the engine, to try and eliminate possible causes of the problem - i read that the 200 sender will read too high, so i was expecting an incorrect reading; i just wanted to see if that part was working or not.
  10. It's still being a right PITA. What i've done so far is swap the voltage stabiliser to another (same results - fuel works, temperature doesnt) Oddly though, it worked without earthing the body of the stabiliser..? I have also tried the old 200tdi sender. Sat it in boiling water for a while, then connected it up, and earthed the body - no change on gauge. Makes me think its the gauge, but as i say, when i shorted out the sender before, the gauge would go to full. When on an hour & half journey yesterday, the gauge only went up so far as the bottom of the "C" section. Surely this isnt right? Cheers
  11. It was an ebay job: " THERMAL TRANSMITTER OIL OR WATER Part number: PRC2505Applicable Models: Land Rover Series 3 Defender to vin FA389798 Product Description: Temperature sender unit." The radiator gets plenty warm enough, so not the stat.
  12. Im after some advice / suggestions.. Problem being, the temperature gauge is reading low. - As in after running for an hour or so, the needle is only at the bottom of the 'C' section. Possible causes: 1) Sender at fault - it is a brand new Series sender, and (i'm almost certain) the old 200tdi sender gave the same reading. (Never really ran it long enough to fully test, though). 2) Bad sender earth - when shorting the wire to the sender,,, to the body of the sender, gauge goes to full showing earth is okay. 3) Faulty gauge - as above,, gauge does go to full when shorted. 4) Faulty voltage stabiliser - Is a brand new unit, and im getting a steady 10-point-something volts from it. Also, the fuel guage works as expected (well, almost (when the tank is full, the gauge reads 3/4, and fluctuates occasionally. When shorting the wire to earth, the gauge will sit still at 'Full' - I'm putting the fluctuations down to a bad fuel sender? )) Do you have any suggestions on what this might be, or what i can try, to find the problem? Thanks.
  13. Could the output of the flasher be shorting to a live feed for electricals? Has it dropped from a bracket or something? I don't know the dash set up...
  14. Ah sorry - my misttake. Think a confusion of trying to adapt Series wiring diagram to fit disco 200tdi is what had me. I've been expecting a switched 12v from the timer relay - not a switched earth. Will change it round tomorrow, Not sure why i got the light to come on originally though.. Thanks
  15. Cheers, but looking at that, I do have it connected up right. As I say it worked originally (without starter red/white cable), but since has not 'worked' whether connected or not. The glowplugs are getting warm from the 11v supply (i think), but no supply to the warning light. & I'd like this to work just so I know things are working right, for peace of mind.
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