landi41

Hi all; Ever wonder where our respected technical and parts number poster Rob Stewart ever got to? from the Dutch site i follow... www.landroverbrotherhood.com "This course is hold by Rob Stewart of www.british4x4servicing.nl (also availleble in English) Rob, who is also our Technical-man to reply mails with technical questions, is ofcourse an Englishman, so you can imagine how those courses seems to be: typical English humor. Alway a good laugh!" Yes i posted this elsewhere

Bad luck Ralph...hope there isn't too much collateral damage and that it works out OK for you................

Get hold of a electrical map and look for a headlamp flasher relay, just guessing but i'll bet there is one in the circuit and it may be faulty..............

I think that disconnected pipe could have some bearing on the subject according to what i read on the referenced website........

This website goes some way to explaning blow by............. http://www.misterfixit.com/blow-by.htm perhaps it will be helpfull................

Like in Canada....all snowmobiles are called Ski-Doos an enviable position for any manufacturer when their brand becomes the generic name for a product............

If you had any more red lights on the rear of that rig you could open a house of "ill repute"

Damn shame........they made great yachting products Globalization or something isn't it called ?

Then what was all that talk we used to hear during the "Cold War" about Police States ?

Ha! ha! Nothing is stupid when it comes to Land Rovers............ my starter nearly fell off as well...the 2 skinny thru bolts that hold it all together pulled free from the aluminum "nose" piece

Perhaps a handbrake shoe "just touching" ? or perhaps some debris or as they say "foreign material" has found its way into the handbrake drum.......... ?? Good Luck with it !!

This link just may be the all time definitive discussion on the topic: http://www.lrenthusiastforum.com/ubbthread...age=3#Post46415 The "big guns" came out swinging on this one

Not sure about the TDi but my money is on the paper gasket...we smeer them with something called Permatex II, black and sticky but sets up rubbery............. can you Lads get it over there....?

I think its as Ralph pointed out, a bad connection where the fuses "push in" I can't see how the glass fuses can be at fault.........they are either not "blown or " not blown" as the case may be............. I have found a propritary electrical contact cleaner, ie: carbon remover....works wonders..........

Oddly enough i have found that you have to "trick" the coil into getting its full 12 volts. I do this by cranking the engine and then momentarily let up on the cranking but not turning the key off........ the momentum created by the starter keeps the engine turning over and the momentary disruption of cranking allows the coil the full 12 volts......... It usuall "catches" ......strange but true

In my opinion the Land Rover 110 fuel tank is a classic example of "designed to fail" engineering. Firstly the depression into which the fuel pump is bolted collects all kinds of water and road debris, this in turn contributes to the steel fuel pipes on the pump rusting and ultimately failing...........not to mention the 12v electrical connection which can corrode and fail............. The "saddle" which supports the tank is another point of weakness, not in the supporting of the tank which is flawless but, in the following manner............the tank has a "protusion" in the bottom to accomodate the fuel pump and the saddle is constructed as such with a protusion to accomodate this.......... again water and road debris can collect in this area leading to premature rusting of the tank bottom............... The last item, although not nearly as critical, is the manner in which the electriacal leads and earth wire are connected to the fuel sender in the side of the tank..............once again especially water induced corrosion leads to the wiring connectors failure................... As they say "Happy Motoring" or here in Canada when you are having vehicle problems the "wise guys" sing out......"Get a Ford"

Yes, very best of luck as RPR has said............... i've seen his pictures....oh yes, and the leeches too Anyway Mate in a way i envy you but i'll restrict my "Rain Forest" travels to reading "youse guys" tales

Hello Mathew; You mean me of course........... We havn't met and i like you already.........

Hi Guys.......... The 2.5 petrol and the V-8 each use a different type of starter than ERR5009......... and i'm pretty sure the 2.5 type starters, diesel or petrol will not fit a 2.25 engine.......... just been thru all of this........recently:) Oh for the days of the old 2.25 petrol starter, never had one fail..............

Yes Ralph i'd call that reliable.....my Lucas model 3m100....... 2.5 petrol starter started playing up 2 months ago. I've replaced the solonoid and am now waiting on a new drive.....the motor itself seems strong enough.. all that at 100,000+ miles. Not bad really because when i first disassembled it i couldn't believe the mud and grit it had injested over the years from deep wading etc........... and then there is the heat, the starter and especially the solonoid is very close to the exhaust manifold......my parts book shows a heat shield but it is long gone.........and i read somewhere the Lucas solonoid dosn't react well to heat..............

Thanks Richard; If the need arises i'll take you up on that one !! Same goes for over here, if you see any Canadian (not American, well maybe in exceptional circumstances give me a shout Hi John; Speaking of Honk Konk............... I have an e-mail around somewhere buried deep in my computer where a Chinese Co is giving cosideration to sending some winches over here for "testing purposes" on Labd Rovers of course !! :)

Yes Neil; All very good stuff.......... but another thing there are shill bidders particularly in automobile auctions................

My e-Bay 2 cents worth............. Many Americans will sell in USA only citing foreign rip-offs............. guess it works two ways......... Some won't sell to Canada either............ And there are Canadians who won't sell to the Americans........... And i had a British guy who would not allow me (a Canadian) to bid on a radiator.................(but then again i think i only have 1 feedback) Just have to appreciate other peoples wishes i guess

Simple answer........ Steel......................strong Aluminum.............. light

Hi John; Yes this is all a bit strange.....you would normally expect higher pressure with higher revs........... some things come to mind: the engine is running hotter than normal and thinning the oil the oil pump gear clearences should be checked, it may not have been re-newed the pick up screen on these engines almost touches the bottom of the oil pan, can it be obstructed? and back to the oil pressure relief spring......... is it letting off too soon? and again, how about the accuracy of the guage? single grade oils are getting harder to find, Canadian Tire have them here in Canada...........but airports are a good place to look....Fixed base operators, the guys who service light aircraft, typically have single grade motor oils available. Aeroshell 100 with an SAE 50 single grade rating is one of the most popular oils sold, not to Pilots but to Harley Davidson riders............ I have used it in my old air cooled BMW bike and in my NADA 6 I'm sure they would have lighter oils such as SAE 20, and SAE 30........... Personally i wouldn't use synthetic, seems thin as water and the ratings are wide eg: 5-40 and i think Mobil offer a 0-40 or something like that............ maybe it's just fine for the newer breed of engines with really close tolerences but in an old design, not for me, also, and maybe this is an automotive urban myth, i hear it leaks past old type engine oil seals with ease....... All of the above are just personal ideas of where to find the source of low oil pressure........... Hope some of these ideas are usefull............