DiscoStu

Hi Boydie, just to make sure, I'm talking about the other end. I got the normal axle end bush, insert, bolt and nylock nut but its the other end, the sleeve hits over the threaded end of the trailing arm where the triangle bush and 30mm nut are. Stu.

Hi all, need a bit of advice. I changed my trailing arm bushes last night, unfortunately the sleeves which fit over the threaded end of the arms and inside the bush were pretty much knackered, the part that bolts to the chassis, not the axle. Of course, these are the only bits not supplied in the kit. Has anyone overcome this problem before? Is there a name for the part and where did you get one? I may have to resort to a piece of pipe but would sooner have the correct part if possible. Thanks, Stu.

Thanks all, I can see where you're coming from but would have to say that not all series' out there are original, unmodified pieces of LR history - plenty would be improved by mating with a disco... It doesnt have to be like painting a tache on the mona lisa That said, there is another issue with this idea and that is the RTV ability of such a truck - my club requires a standard sillhoutte and as far as I'm aware, if i chopped 9" out of a 109's tub i may not be able to compete or possibly would end up in a modified class that the truck wouldnt be competitive in. Still fancy a series though, prettier than a defender by far and with much more character. Maybe I'll be trialling on leaf springs, who knows! stu.

Yes I cant give you scientific or engineering reasons unfortunately, but the expansion tank must be filled half way for a reason I assume! The small bore pipe coming from the front of the expansion tank runs an 8" hose to somthing called the Expansion Tank Ejector Valve, basically a three way valve which connects via two more small hoses to the small pipe on the stat housing and the small pipe coming out of the rad just above the oil cooler fittings. Not entirely sure what it does if I'm honest, apart from provide a two into one join in the cooling system but hope that answers your question to some degree. Stu.

As above, yes. You dont want to reach the maximum extension of those hoses and then exceed it. For the money, its not worth the hassle of having no brakes. Stu.

No, it would not be possible to drive the truck safely. When the trailing arm lets go, the rear axle will steer like a forklift truck - you'll be upside down in someones front garden before you can say "Bad idea". Either trailer it away or fix it there - replacing a trailing arm is usually a doddle, do it in 10 mins as long as all the nuts and bolts cooperate. The steering damper is less crucial and although not great, as long as you take it easy and be aware for shimmy from the steering you should be ok, as long as the damper isnt flapping around or dragging that is. Best remove it probably. Stu.

Actually, i really like that idea. This disco has already been re bodied, it's a v8 es on a tdi chassis and running gear as it was still easier to do than sort out all the rot on the original truck. I'd feel pretty confidant about doing it again even if it did mean making some changes to both. Definitely one to think about, thanks all so far! Stu

Hi all, I'm more usually found in the Disco section but I've been toying with the idea of buying a series for a couple of years now. I've got a Disco (300 Tdi) and had another prior to that and a 3.9 Vogue SE before that so its fair to say I like Land Rovers and dont mind getting my hands dirty. What I want is a bit of a do everything truck, it needs to: do RTV trials Safely carry the kids and dog in forward facing seats occaisionally (not for the dog) Shift shi*t to the tip once a month Be a soft top / convertible Have a roll cage fitted / be able to have one fitted Have a windscreen that folds forward Look the dogs bollox So pretty simple then...? As mentioned, I've a 300Tdi that i currently use for this stuff, its a bit of a wreck but keeps soldiering on. On the plus side, its got 85,000 genuine miles on it. Any and every piece of this truck would be available to add to the series as its not worth selling except in pieces - i'm not the most gentle trialler and should have probably invested in more armour... What would you reccomend i think about / be wary of? Can 109's be used successfully in class 5 (RTV) or is it best to go with an 88? What kind of money am i looking at do you think? And of course, series what?? For those who have already used a disco to enhance a series, what advice can you give? Thanks, Stu.

Excellent educational thread! The Garage / Workshop A large untidy area, frequently inhabited by mischevious spirits who enjoy repositioning objects. Also used to hide secret purchases from ones significant other.

Torx head self tappers - thats what are now holding mine on after some scroat nicked them outside of work. Working on the theory that they walk around with a phillips and some wire rather then TX20 bits...

Hello all, sorry for the lateness of reply - I do a different job these days and dont have any time that needs wasting anymore! Delarosa & Pinn - this is where you need a phillips bit in a short 7mm socket or proper holder on a 1/4 inch ratchet to get those tricky screws - a bit held in pliers will work as Pinn says but how many times will you drop it down the dash! Airbags - good point, I havent got them so didnt realise that. Aircon - sorry, again outside my experience on my disco's so far. When you suss it, be sure to update this thread Oh, and the time taken, proably les than 2hrs including brews and inconvienient phone calls! Stu.

I'd go with any gauge / sensor combo that gives you what you need, i.e. warm, hot, too hot! The exact temp does not matter to me, I'm more interested in am I at a safe temp. As long as you get an appropriate gauge reading at vairious temps as above, should be fine. Stu.

Ha, I may try the draft effect - with any luck next year!

I tried a old 240v blower heater I had lying around after reading this post - it worked a treat. I sat in the kitchen watching the ice melt from the inside out! Great I thought, until I got in the car and found that internal condensation was unlike anything I've ever seen before in a car - I've got streaks down all my windows and droplets hanging off the rear window! It is a family saloon though - mabye (definiately) more air tight than a defender I may be too late for another experiment unless it gets cold again but I'll try a different angle / lower setting next time, I think it was pointing pretty much straight at the windscreen. Stu.

Hi, just to be sure - the dashboard clocks dont illuminate? That's not alternator related. Speedo not working? Also not alternator related. There are some big multiplugs going into the back of the instument console, you need to check they are still connected to begin with, then test or change the bulbs in the console. Also check the multiplug in the drivers footwell that sends the signal from the gearbox sensor. After that check continuity of the speedo sensor cable etc. Could all be related or be two completely different faults, i.e. blown bulb and knackerd sensor. Neither of your problems are alternator related so look on the bright side Stu.

Thanks lads, I agree about the towing aspect definately, I just hope he uses it often enough to justify the purchase. As regards the Jag, my research is showing they're not too bad, Mondeo derived engines and 55+ on a run.... The freebie cant touch that - for the amount of time he'll tow with it he'll get 15 or 20 more mpg every other day. I think were going to go Freebie despite all that, he's never had a 4x4, my mum wants to "Sit up properly" and after being my navigator for the last couple of years, I think he's got the bug Stu.

Thanks.

My Dad is also thinking of buying a Freelander - I've had a few discos and an RR a few years ago but I've no experience of freebies except I've heard all the horror stories / bad press they seem to get. He's recently bought a caravan and wants somthing other than my trialer disco to tow it with - it's a toss up between a freebie and a X Type Jag - both of which can be had on a 54 plate for between four and five grand wit decent milage and history. I dont want to put him off but I kind of fancy the Jag (even though it wont be mine I'm sure I can borrow it now again) and despite my love of all things green oval and the fact that my dad has had nothing but Rovers for forty years, I'm not sure I should encourage him to get one (FL'r). He's 67 and handy with a spanner but he's not going to want to be out on the drive all the time. Would you feel confident reccomending one? Stu.

Sorry for the partial hijack.... There is a restart sequence? I was about to change the battery in my 1996 two button fob - its getting a bit hit and miss and I've not changed it in the three years I've had it. I'll have to try to remember which side lock is, I never seem to get it right first time! Is there anything else I need to be aware of, and incidentally, what battery does the fob take? Stu.

You can also buy adjustable panhard rods. Stu.

My speedo is 100% correct. When the car is parked.... It has never worked since I rebuilt the truck, the differences between 300Tdi engine looms and V8 interior looms got me so hacked off in the end I just downladed a speedo app. Often wondered why they havent raised an eyebrow that the milage reading has been the same for the last two years, and will be again at 9am on Thursday morning

Hi, I have a similar issue at the moment but I've traced my problem. I would reiterate what the poster above said about checking current draw between the battery's positive terminal and the red cable with a multimeter - I have a drain of 3a. This drains my battery overnight - obviously a bit more dramatic than yours but possibly a similar issue. I have traced my issue to the rectifier pack in the alternator - i seem to have a diode that isnt diodeing! It charges great but it drains at least as fast. On my previous, veg oil powered truck, I had another similar problem that there werent enough cranking amps to get it going on a chilly morning - no preheater system or anything so it did take some oomph. I just added a second battery - £10 from a scrap transit solved the problem. I would seriously get your meter out and have a check - if there is nothing to find you can cross it off the list if nothing else. Stu.

IIRC, it flashes then goes out when you hold it. It feels like it should stay on but I dont think it does. Not had mine for a couple of years now so only going from memory tho! Stu.

Thanks, blanked it off. Stu.

It is a tiny one Phil, the stiff thin stuff. I suppose it could be egr related - there is no longer an egr...