DiscoStu
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Posts posted by DiscoStu
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Ffs you lot...
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Well, I managed to set the pre-load on one of the swivels and it was way out to start with. Unfortunately, due to a spinning, knackered track rod end I couldn't do the other. It was too late in the day to get a new TRE so cutting it off wasn't an option. I think there has been an improvement but I'll need to get some new TRE's (All goosed) and do the other swivel to eliminate them from the equation.
Glad I did the job though, I discovered my O/S wheel bearing was using orange grinding paste for lubricant so got that cleaned up and re-greased. I've found a nick in the mating face of the stub axle so I think theres alsorts of mud and water getting past the seal into the bearings. Looks like a new set of bearings and a new stub axle will be required.
Seems like every job spawns another two!
Stu.
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I would start by removing the thinnest shim first. Also support the hub with a jack so that the weight of the hub doesn't cause the seal around the swivel to open up and let the oil out................but then if you are using one-shot grease.......
Thanks Andy, good advice there. If I could just get you to clarify though, where are these bloody shims??
Thats the only bit I'm not sure about, I've stripped both fronts down including removing the stub axles in the past to change bearings/remove welded on remains etc and filled both with one shot grease after spilling EP90 all over the drive but cant recall ever seeing anything "Shimmy" (No pun intended
)Stu.
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Hmmm. Nothing obvious mores the pity. Looks like I'll have to do the swivels.
I'll replace the panhard rod bushes while im at it, that should narrow down the possibilities if it doesn't solve the problem.
Can anyone reccomend a quality make/supplier of swivel service kits?
Stu.
EDIT: Reading through the tech archive article on replacing the swivel I've noticed that there is no description of how to set the pre-load. Can anyone point me in the direction of a how to? If I can just reset them rather than replace for the time being that would be ok. Cheers.
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I take my previous comment back, polybushing the radius arms has had no positive effect on my steering issue at all!
I had a major moment on the M6 this morning, a series of bumps in the middle lane at 70mph set me shaking all over the place - the worst one yet. It seemed like about 10 seconds of really bad shaking and bouncing, I had to slow down to 40mph to get it under control.... too scary.
The poly bushes have improved general road manners but tightening up the axle to arms must have made the component(s) that is really at fault more stressed/isolated when the shaking starts.
I'm going to go have a good wrench on all my bushes and joints etc to see if I can find any play - this has got to be sorted, I use the truck every day to get to work!
Stu.
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I have had the same issues recently. I've added a second, relocated steering damper, the original is still on but is completely useless. I've had a big improvement by polybushing the radius arms - it's still there at speed but different in character. Less a shimmy and more a shake - it now feels lots less scary and out of control when it starts but I'd like to eliminate it completely.
I'll have to work down the list as you have I think.
Good luck and let us know how you get on, Stu.
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As to your original question, remove the black plastic screw (21mm) from the top of the thermostat housing and fill the engine from there with the header tank cap removed, keep an eye on the header tank level as you do.
Stu.
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So its not even a vacuum pipe? Great, I feel even sillier now...
Thanks for the knowledge cipx.
Stu.
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Excuse the noob question all, its been bugging me....
There is a braided pipe that runs from injector to injector on the 300Tdi, the fittings are like "Y" connectors with the vacuum pipe going to and from the top arms of the "Y". On mine the arm of the Y nearest the bulkhead is bare - no pipe or stopper/blank etc.
Is this normal or am I missing somthing?
Pictures can be taken if necessary.....
Stu.
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Thanks for the replies all, I'm leaning towards the panel gaps myself. As mentioned I've stripped the head lining, trim, foam etc from the back end - its bare except for the seatbelts and loom!
Not seeing anything from the alpines but there is a bit of rust either side under the seal on the exterior. I may whip em out (ooer missus) and treat the rust before wackin them back in with some sealant in there too.
Sounds like a smaller job to seal the panel gap - I'll try that first then get me old fella round to play the hose over the back end. Thanks again,
Stu.
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Hi all,
I have noticed a water leak from the rear of the disco in moderate to heavy rain - today really made it pour in.
I have a few issues with each sunroof but I have an idea how to tackle those, the one that has me foxed is at the rear passenger corner.
With the headlining and trim panels removed I can see water gathering at the very end of the box section, right in the corner - above the load bay window, beneath the safari window at the very back of the car. This drips down the corner pillar, onto the bracket beneath, onto the speaker then onto the load liner where it leaves a big puddle.
For the life of me I cant work out where its coming in. Has anyone else had a leak here and if so, how did you fix it?
Any advice gladly accepted, its not worth replacing my boot floor if its only going to last 5 minutes!
Stu.
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I did the same as tony, hides it nicely. Ran my earth to the chassis directly beneath the aux battery as you say - no issues.
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Thats correct, in my experience there seems to be very little difference in the casings themselves, caliper bolt thread size and mud shield fitting points are all I can recall.
All the major differences are in the components like stub axles, bearing assy's etc.
Stu.
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I've had a spacer come loose, it was knocking for abot 10 miles before I worked out what it was and tightend it up. I've kept an eye on them since and have had no more probs. I put my incident down to not having torqued them up properly, just rattle gun tight, which isn't very.
One major difference is my tyres are far closer to standard than yours.
Stu.
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Simply not true mate, or at least is wasn't when i removed and refitted mine. It my be a bit sloppy but you can stick em back on.
Dont worry about it, drop the prop off the doughnut, the doughnut of the diff flange then crack off the big flange nut and roberts your fathers brother.
Stu.
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So with all the work thats needed to make running 33's possible, is it worth it? Reason I ask is because I really fancy a set of 33" Kl71's but have been offered 5 265/75 Wrangler MT's, 1 month old, on modulars for really good money.
Do I take the 265's with a minimal chop (Got +2" already) or go for 33's and have to chop my back doors to bits???
Stu.
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It wasnt a drainpipe bracket mate, it was a 90 degree metal bracket, about the size of a credit card folded in the middle.
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I bought right angle bracket from B&Q for about 80p, screwed it to the pillar and attache the pipe with a stainless jubilee clip.
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Thats the way I've run my cable. You dont need two, just +ve to +ve and run a shorter earth to the chassis under the second battery. The cable is more expensive than a second hand battery so you'll save £££'s
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Oops, probably right. No wonder I couldnt google it eh?
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Is that marked DR 4x4 by any chance? I know Jeff reasonably well and he told me someone had made the bumper up for him almost as a prototype, I had a good look at it and loved it. I've googled DR 4x4 about a million times but never found anything, is that you? Are you in the same area as WinchSolutions?
Stu.
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If you're decanting from cylinder to cylinder you will only ever get half the pressure of the original unless you use a booster pump, which are quite pricey. I'm a diver and we have been wrestling with this this one for years when getting O2 or He from BOC etc. If you can get hold of a few cylinders you can cascade fills into your bank (linked cylinders) and get as much as possible from them. I have 3 J cyls that I use for O2, a mate found them at work, very handy.
Stu.
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I suppose it depends on how well you can seal the chassis. So many mounting points and holes etc, I'd lean towards tony's suggestion. I'm also made up cos I have a drain cleaning nozzle for my jetwash! Roll on the weekend, good thinking that man.
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A lot of R380's crunch on 2nd, try an oil change before a recon would be my advice. The oil sold by Difflock has a good reputation. Mine crunches on fast changes so I try to avoid them
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Decent top for B&Q snorkel
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I got a southdown top off ebay for £20 or so.
Fits perfectly and also gets rid of the last piece of "bend" if you know what I mean. You may have to lengthen your A pillar pipe due to the removal of the final bend, a significant investment at about £3 worth of pipe....
On the plus side it looks really good and much less home made. I've since got a 3" O/D aluminimum tube up my A pillar and bar the stickers, you'd think it was a southdown one. Alli was an offcut that cost £5
Stu.